You could.

First, you need to replace the drivers on the driveshaft to accommodate the extra lug height in the bulk head. Using tooth count and pitch (2.52) to find circumference, you can find the diameter by dividing by pi. Then measure the clearance between various diameters and the bulkhead and determine the tooth count needed, and purchase them if available. Remember to leave some space above the lugs to ensure no rubbing and proper snow evacuation.

Now that you changed drivers, you have lowered the effective gear ratio. You will need to regear the chaincase to get some speed back, and put enough load on the engine. The final ratio still needs to be lower than stock to have enough torque to drive the track.

Next, you may need to reposition the suspension to get enough tunnel clearance to clear those lugs. Make sure to keep the same geometry, or you will have binding. ie, move the rear down 1" move the front down 1" ect.

Keep in mind that the 600's power and ability to drive a big track. To keep the torque at a reasonable level you will need to lose top end considerably, but it will have better throttle response and get up and go in deep snow and technical riding when done right.

 

close advise, but not quite. the supsension move in an arc. if you drop the rear 1", the front will be closer to 1/2" or slightly more.

1 1/2" track is best you can do if you change your drivers to 8 tooth. with 7t drivers you can clear a 2", but i would really push that direction. the 1.5 will make a big difference.

dont forget that you have limited adjustments on the front pogos and the balance is easily upset. i ran 1.5's on all my 94-96 v maxes.

where you at in idaho?

 

close advise, but not quite. the suspension move in an arc. if you drop the rear 1", the front will be closer to 1/2" or slightly more.

Thank you for calling that. For some reason I was lifting the whole sled, skis included in my mind.

 

I doubt that, the 600 would have enough hp to pull a 2" track, even in a 121" suspension!
You would be better off with a 136 X 1.5"!

 

How do you lower the front and rear suspensions?
I saw a 1.5" track for sale in Spokane/Coeur d' Alene CL, so for that I would just need to change to an 8 tooth drive gear, plus a little bit of suspension adjustments, right?

Thanks,

MM

 

What diameter hex does VMax take? I'm seeing 1" and 1 1/16" hex measurements...

MM

 

If you are wanting to build a Mountain sled, there are some much better Chassis to start with!

 

There are better options for powder for sure.

By the time you purchase and do all the necessary parts and install them, you might as well sell your current sled and pick up something else.

If you want to stay Yamaha, pick up a 1997 or newer Mountain Max, preferably newer with the 141" track. You will get a beefier track and an improved chassis. You may even be able to get into one for less than a new track, drivers, and regearing would cost.

 

I'm sure there's better sleds for powder, and I would get one if I didn't use it for commuting down the mountain to the cars. I actually prefer the lower suspension for this purpose (and NONE other...). Also with situation I'm going slower than it wants to most of the time with the current gearing, etc, so I was wondering, how big of a difference would it make to reduce the drive gear to an 8 tooth and leave everything else alone?

Thanks!

MM

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Also with situation I'm going slower than it wants to most of the time with the current gearing, etc, so I was wondering, how big of a difference would it make to reduce the drive gear to an 8 tooth and leave everything else alone?

The vmax's were way overgeared from the factory already... Going to a 8 tooth would reduce that gearing, but would also [slightly] increase your approach angle, which reduces deep snow capability. It's easier and cheaper to just throw a new gear & chain in there.

 

With THIS situation...sorry

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Going to an 8 tooth gear would reduce the gearing while also making room for a 1 1/2" track.

Approach angle as in the angle at which the front of the track angles up to the drive gear?

I'm mostly just trying to figure out what to do when my track comes the rest of the way apart this winter! Gearing down would be nice too.

MM

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Approach angle is the angle the track makes on its approach to the ground. The angle is determined by driveshaft/driver location and the location of the front rail.

 

Then I would look for a Mountain Max drive with the 8 tooth drivers already on it!
You could press your old drivers off and put new ones on, but even with a press and a heat gun it is a pain!
I might be able to find you a 121 x 1 1/2" track? There was a guy on here that used to have one! I believe his handle was scooled101! You could PM him?

 

Where would I look for that? Parting out on craigslist or something maybe?

It would actually be a 136 x 1 1/2" track, because it's the st model.

MM

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I just talked to my local Yamaha dealer and he can get the drivers for $25 each (compared to $75 ea that I found), and told me a machine shop that can change the drivers on the shaft. He also said that a lot of people are switching to 3" pitch. What do you guys know about that? Is the track more durable? I.E. more rubber in between lugs?

MM

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Are you sure the ST is a 136? I didn't think they had anything over the 121 till the Mountain Max?
Find this out by counting the lugs, a 121 would have 48 and a 136 54?
As for where to find a track PM scooled, another place to search is HCS.
Classified Ads - HCS Snowmobile Forums

 

This track fit page says that all vmax st's had 136" tracks:
http://www.sledtrack.com/yamaha-snowmobile-track-fitment-guide/

How would I adjust the suspension to make room for 1 1/2" lugs?

MM

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what a bunch of piss poor advise. really flatlanders? know your stuff before spewing garbage advice.

those sleds flat rock with a 1.5 track done right. do all you naysayers realize that the 97 mtn max was virtually the same 600 twin with a 136 x 1.5 track? how about the 94-96 st models that came with the 136? how is it that that 94 doesnt have the power to spin the 121 x 1.5? i have been adding taller lugs and longer tracks to yamahas for going on 20 years.

take this to the bank: with 8t drivers you will have no problems with the 1.5 track, but you will have to make some modifications to the skid mounts, period. you will need to make or buy some drop brackets for the rear mount, lower both the front and center mounts. you get an 11% reduction in gearing by going to 8t drivers. no need to regear, yet. clutching may be needed and can be as simple as a new spring.

your 94 has a 1" shaft. 95 and up went to the 1 1/16 shaft. either should suit your needs. you cannot do 3" pitch drivers in that sled, you must stick with the 2.52. period.

if your sled is the st model, your even better off yet, but all above still applies. hope this helps your plight. on the 94-96 skids, its best to make your own drops if you can. theres a few tricks do deal with but the end results will more than suit your needs.

 

I just want to point out I never said anything about a lack of power for the 1.5", I was referring to OPs mention of a 2.5" track. 1.5" would be a great suit for that sled indeed, and I believe KC also recommended that height as well.

Anyway, op, it would be a good idea to go through the clutches while you're at this as well, the twins were known to be hard on clutch parts. Look for play in the center bushings, as well as the rollers.

 

Now I'm looking at a 1 1/4" track, so what would I do in the chaincase to reduce the gearing by a similar amount (10-15%)?

MM

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I guess I've never seen a ST? I had a DX 600 and it was a dog till I dropped a tooth on the top gear!