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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '93 XLT SP and it won't run or start. I bought it off a guy and he started it fine over at his place. When we pulled it off the trailer at my place it took alot of effort to start, then I rode it for a while and parked it in the shop. The next day I tried starting it up and it would run but would starve itself out of gas, so I put a fuel pump kit in it, then the recoil broke so i left it for the night and the next morning it was flooded. I took out the bolts on the crank case and it poured out gas, so I changed the choke cable, ripped apart the carbs, cleaned them and everything, checked the floats, everything but it still won't start and I just broke my recoil again tonight. It sounds like it's flooding itself but it makes no sense to me.
 

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If its starving itself of gas are you sure the gas switch is turned on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It doesn't starve itself anymore since i changed the fuel pump, it is flooding itself
 

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It shouldn't flood out. Did you set the inlet needles in the carbs? If they are dirty or not set right, fuel won't stop coming through.
 

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It sounds to me if it is flooding out maybe dirt in carbs or your floats are stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well my carbs are so clean you could eat off of them and my floats are moving fine, my uncle also said that it might have jets just for idling to look at, so im thinking about taking it into my polaris dealer to get them to set the carbs, but I talked to the arctic cat dealer by my place and he said it was the needles and seats.
 

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That's what we mentioned. The onlt way it'd flood out while sitting is if the needles and seats were letting fuel by.
 

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The most common problem and fix.

As clean as your carbs look on the outside, you have to go remove the reservoir bottom cover and then remove the metal flapper (I use a dart to pop and push out the pin), remember what side is up or down for the re-install or it will leak like a stuck pig also. There shoud be shiny worn areas on the side of the flaps that touches the floats to checks for so you know what side is supposed to originally be up. Its very common for novices to take apart these things and then just forget to put the flapper right side up- spaeaking of myself.
Remove the semi-circle spring (tweezers are a safety backup from it going "boing") , and then the fuel needle will come out. I think a 8mm wrench will get the seated portion out. Check the little red washers and ensure they are in decent shape, 2 per carb. Look in there and make sure the inside is clean of boogers or slimy varnishy bad guys.
Look closely at the tips of the fuel needles and make sure they are smooth and not dented or ribbed or imperfect in any way. Make sure the little spring opearted mechanism in it is free moving. It is very common for the metal tips to become not perfect and results in fuel seeping through. Replace with VITON tip fuel needles, they are like a kind of rubber that seals better than old style metal tips which can become indented and stuff. Best price i've found is dennis kirk for $13.99 a piece with a 1.5 is the most common size, check with your present ones.

Hope this helps
 
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