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The little Ovation I just opened up had over 10k on it and it looks PERFECT!
I already ordered over size pistons and complete gasket set with seals
Get this total with shipping is under $150 bucks!
 

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1995 Polaris XLT Touring
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Discussion Starter #64
Flywheel puller was delivered to my mailbox this morning so I'll have that apart and hopefully engine pulled out and apart this weekend. I see it's important to mark the stator and crank case so it all goes back in correctly for timing?

I'll take some pics and vids of the crank once I get it out. Check for any play or roughness in the bearings and crank/rods themselves.
 

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Rotating the stator on the crank is how the timing is set, so you will want to scribe a line from the stator to the case for reference on reassembly. Some engines already have a mark, some don't. So it's a step to go through. If there is one, no issue. If there isn't, then you make one.
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
66194


Yep might need those stronger bolts... But also concerned that the main puller bolt started wearing too. Might just pick up a flat one to press on the whole crank end instead of the way this one is shaped.

It's now soaking in penetrating oil too so hopefully it loosens up a bit for the next attempt. If not might need to go with torch heat. Glad I didn't go with a harmonic balancer puller or that would have been even more destroyed.


Update:
66195


Take two. Better bolts Still not moving, going to let it sit as tight as I could get it for a while to try and see if it will break free on it's own/with some gentle percussive persuasion in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Again
A flat piece of steel and NO center bolt is THE best way I have found!
So your method you loosen the nut so that it's just flush with the end of the crank threads, when you tighten the bolts into the flywheel evenly it just presses the center of the plate against the crank and nut and eventually comes lose. If mines on this tight would it not risk stripping the threading in the flywheel? That's the last thing I want to happen.

Where would you get the plate?

And really at this point if my center bolt just keeps deforming as it spins against the crank, if it's in place couldn't I just try evenly tightening the 3 bolts going into the flywheel now? Less likely to get more misshapen if it's not spinning. The new bolts into the flywheel are grade 8's so they're solid.
 

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Basically
Remove the nut and the thick flat washer!
Then just put the nut back on to Protect the threads (Either tool)

I just used the recoil cup as a pattern
(does Not have to be centered and can be used to lock the motor as well)
But use about a 4" sq of 1/2" thick plate
I would lube the flat washer and bolt heads with grease
Get it square straight what ever
Then a 1/6 turn at a time and it will scare you when it pops!
But this gives the center to shaft wide open for a full on TAP
with the full shock to the shaft itself where it may be needed!
 

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Discussion Starter #71
So clearly this whole process probably works better when the puller material isn't so malleable that it just reshapes...

66197


Had a bit of an idea based on the metal plate method. What if I was to tighten the puller up in this way:
66198
66199


Puller bolt head flat against the nut and crank, tighten up the 3 smaller bolts evenly and keep tapping the end of the puller bolt, which I clearly don't care about damaging anymore....
 

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I was intrigued by the flat steel technique described by kccats at first, but after thinking about it longer I don't think the turning of those small bolts as a way to draw the flywheel off is the best method. I think while they are turning, it's hard to gauge the turning in from the twisting off. I think the best approach is good quality bolts screwed in to grab as many threads as possible and then using the center puller bolt to hopefully pull it off. I always use an impact gun on it if it won't come right off. Your puller needs some kind of washer or a socket over it to prevent more damage to the center bolt but more important not to damage the end of the crank. I have never had to use heat to take one off but I would at some point. I would try pulling with a puller and impact gun one more time then destroy the flywheel with heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Problem with mine is now definitely that the flywheel is stuck enough and the puller center bolt is too soft to break it free. I used my impact on it too. No luck. I believe the center bolt is an M16 fine thread which I can't seem to just find at any regular hardware store. I'll have to see if there's anything at an auto parts place that might work. Even a lug nut? I'd think that a steel bolt maybe with a cap nut on it where the end is stripping might work...
 

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Discussion Starter #77 (Edited)
Yeah we have Fastenal but it's not really a retail spot here, more like parts and supplies ordering for industrial customers...

I stand corrected. One of the auto parts stores I had no luck at said to go to Fastenal. That they do have inventory in stock... I just didn't get there before they closed. Tomorrow after work I'll try!
 

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The idea of the flat plate is that there is No center bolt!
Loosening in a circular pattern works.
Then Taping the center it will pop
 

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Discussion Starter #80
That center bolt doesn't appear to be a hardened black steel. My cheap Taiwanese one is black steel. It has never deformed like that in 30 years.
Yeah it wasn't. The seller is taking it back on return... But I picked up a heavy duty harmonic balancer puller and tried with that and heated up the flywheel with my torch, tighten, tap heat, repeat, snapped another bolt. This sucker is on TIGHT. it got heated up again and it's sitting under tension again to see if it moves at all on it's own but I'm leaning toward pulling the crank case out, taking it to a shop and letting them get it off. And can inspect the crank while they're at it.

I would have never guessed a flywheel could be on so tight. Thinking there's red loctite involved somewhere.
 
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