It looks like the gasket is three layer manufactured. I don't know much about head gaskets, but it's got coated top layer, bottom layer then a metal layer in between held together with a grommet.
What clearances should I be checking keeping in mind I don't have a full mechanics shop in my garage, just your basic tools and I don't mind picking up a few cheap tools, like I need a honer still.
Also, if doing the oiler mod, where can I find a fitting for the oil line to press into the case once drilled out? I assume it's a different fitting than what runs to the block for fuel mixture by the carbs right?
What should I be looking for on the crank when I get it all apart? I might just take it to the shop that rebuilt my clutch and see if he can tell me how it looks. I'm thinking of doing over the crank bearings anyway while I have it off, but would a person typically swap the interior bearings also or just the outside ones?
I priced things up, cdn dollars:
3 ProX piston kits with rings, pins, bearings and circlips, full winderosa top end gasket and crank seal kit: $345.
PTO bearings (2) & mag bearing: $120
4 line Oil pump: about $120 cdn incl fitting & line
Also going to do my jackshaft & driveshaft bearings. Already have one brand new kit I bought but never put on yet, and kit for both: $50
Honer: $35
My carb boots are in good shape. Nice and soft, no cracks.
$670 taxes and shipping all in gets top and bottom end done, drive bearings all redone. I may need to pick up carb needle and float bowl gasket kits but that's about the only other expense.... Besides replacing my duct tape seat someday

I might need someone to pull and press crank bearings and inspect the crank and maybe the block but hopefully that's it.
Correct me if I'm wrong but that seems like a reasonable price to pay (about 530 usd) on that much work/benefit since I'll do it myself?