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1995 Polaris XLT Touring
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been silent a few weeks, basically haven't been able to resolve the issues with my 95 XLT Touring running poorly, so I'm going to crack it open, assess the situation and likely full rebuild over the summer. Top to bottom.

I might be jumping the gun, but wondering on some insight for what to do while I've got it all apart.

My plan is:

Disassemble full engine, top end, crank, everything.

I'd like to get the crank inspected to make sure everything is still solid/in phase, I don't know much about cranks but if I've got it out I should probably get the outer bearings replaced as preventative maintenance?

I'm going to do the 4th oiler line mod if I can find a proper pump. Don't seem to see any on eBay right now... Also I've seen it's beneficial to drill out and chamfer the oiler holes too while the crank is split or is that really only beneficial if you don't add the oiler line?

Replace crank seals, carb boots and all other seals and gaskets. Anything rubber will be new.

Inspect cylinders, heads for wear/damage and that all is still round. Hone if all still good, if issues I've got another monoblock I could swap in.

Get crank back in and reseal.

Install piston kit.

Might as well get carb rebuild kits while I'm at it if the price is right. If I'm doing this much it all might as well be new.

Any other thoughts or advice?
 

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First get the Flywheel off and clutch BEFORE you remove engine!
PICS!
I send all my cranks to Northern Crankshafts in TRF
True, phase, weld and balance it!
Cyl are questionable, I would hone and clean them, then inspect!
The only thing in a 'Kit' is the needle and seat!
Check your floats first!
 

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1995 Polaris XLT Touring
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good advice on the flywheel. I've heard it can be a b**ch! Probably better to have it still bolted in than sliding around a work bench. Clutch is no prob. Ive got the puller already.

I plan on taking pictures or maybe videos throughout. Worked well for the xtra10 swap video I did almost a decade ago.

My options for sending parts around are quite prohibitive being in Canada. Anything crossing the border twice is going to get really pricy.

There's a motorcycle shop here locally that does really good work and the owner used to work for the Polaris/Harley dealership here so he's very familiar with Polaris sleds. He doesn't typically work on complete snowmobiles due to his shop setup/space but has no problem taking parts in for work anytime.

I have a couple of questionable carb float bowl gaskets that I'd like to replace too. I had cleaned the carbs twice this year while trying to solve my issues, floats seem good to me.
 

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That is because it is the end of the season. Do the 4 port oil pump with the oil modification. There is a brand new one that is old stock for 83 bucks but he won't ship to Canada. Idk if or how much customs would be but I could check on shipping since the post office is right across from my house. He has one left. Total there is 7 of them right now on eBay.


This one is brand new in the package and ships to canada for 15 bucks. But is 130 US. The part number you are looking for is 3085441

 

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1995 Polaris XLT Touring
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551 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
First step, only had time to take the exhaust off today to check the piston skirts.

Mag:
66101
66102

Center:
66104

66103

PTO:
66105
66106


The marks on the center and pto don't feel like full on gouges but still probably not good to see...

All 6 rings are still in tact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
That I couldn't really tell you since I only put 10 miles on it before it got shut down for the season... I had picked up some Mystik synthetic on sale late fall but would have barely used any so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Also I think it's more the flash from the camera. Looks more just light brown to the naked eye. My phone was set to focus on the piston so the surrounding areas may reflect the exposure based on the focal point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Heads all off. Cylinders feel really smooth, piston heads don't look anywhere near as bad as I was thinking. The head gasket was definitely on upside-down and has now split apart as shown in the pics. The gasket was pretty wet when I took it out. Thinking possible minor leaking from when it was installed incorrectly? Could also lead to the drop in compression to about 100psi across the board?

One question though, the little pins to line up the gasket and the heads, two seem to be pressed in and the center one seems to be high. On the spare block I have they're all even. Anything to worry about?

Edit: a previous owner definitely didn't line up the heads and dowel pins properly and the alignment holes in the heads are a bit rounded out at the bottoms and the pins are pushed in.

Two questions: 1 - if heads still aligned properly and tightened to spec, should they be ok? 2 - if concerning can the pins be replaced? Alternatively I could just use the spare block if it gets honed.

Bunch of pics:
66119
66120
66122
66123
66124
66125
66126
66127
66128
66129
 

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Wow, what a hack job. You are lucky that the case didn't crack with the force of the head pushing down on the pins. It doesn't take much to crack them. I don't know about removing the pins, but if the other block is in great shape, I would consider using it instead of this one.

I bought a sled with a blown driveline bearing but the engine ran... but I wanted to replace the pistons anyway. Got it apart, there were two locating dowels in the crankcase and the person that worked on it last just slapped it together, pressing the pin in and cracking the block. I would be concerned that there was force put where it's not intended. Had to get a case to go along with the pistons. :(

It may be fine forever... but I'm a worrier ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah.... Remember my posts combing through possible issues to solve the performance problem..... Seems I'm finally getting to the root of it all. Someone really hacked together the power plant. I'm going to nip this problem in the bud and clean up & drop in the spare block that I know fits together. Guess I'm not getting lucky& cheap with just a gasket kit on this one!

I'm glad every day that I knocked down the asking price when I bought it knowing there would be issues, but the seller word for word said "top end was rebuilt last year. My friend is a red seal mechanic who placed 3rd in a national competition." I'm guessing the seller however placed 2nd in a bull$h!tting competition.

Still nothing I can't fix! And CORRECTLY!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
On the plus side, since I have access to the cylinders now I checked the crank phase with my digital caliper tool and it looks very close... So that's a very small victory! Lol
 
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