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Discussion Starter #1
I have an old 1999 Skandic WT, with the Type 503 motor.
Engine starts and runs fine if I pull start. However, if I turn the key to start the engine cranks but never fires.
I checked spark and have none when cranking the engine over with the starter.
When I give up on using the starter and just leave the key on and pull start - one pull and I'm running.
Runs well - smooth so maybe I should just be happy with that but I'd sure like to use that electric start feature.
Any ideas on what could be wrong?
Oh, I left the key on and jumped the solenoid - same thing engine cranks but won't start.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the welcome and the reply. I had that thought and going by the manual I checked the switch terminals in each position with a multimeter and it checked out OK.
I may replace it anyway because they aren't expensive and heck if nothing changes I can always throw the old one into the seat storage under the heading "Spare." :)
Another test I did was to leave the key in the on position and "hot-wired" the starter so that the starter engaged and cranked. No spark. Then - one pull - the engine started. I took that as an indication that the switch was good since I had a spark from a pull but not a crank while the key was in the on position when I hot-wired it and got no spark. But who knows?
Thanks for the answer. It is just the push I needed to make me buy an ignition switch - just to be sure.
If I can find the right switch at one of the local shops today I'll replace the switch and post what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, I couldn't find a key switch locally. So, I pulled the switch and did the manual ohm tests on the poles in each key position. Tests good. I figured I'd do whatever other tests I could and found that if I measure the resistance from the inside of the sparkplug cap to the ground don't get the 13.1K to 18.3K that is called for. Instead, I get a full open reading.
Which, if I understand the table is telling me the Secondary Winding for the Ignition Module and High Voltage Coil has burned out. I think...

If the coil has burned out does the engine just run off the magneto?
 

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In the crank position does key stil provide spark?
Try this un hook the starters main power cable and tape it off.
Then have someone hold the key in the crank position (nothing should happen) then still hold and pull start! See if while holding in crank will it start?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
In the crank position does key stil provide spark?
Try this un hook the starters main power cable and tape it off.
Then have someone hold the key in the crank position (nothing should happen) then still hold and pull start! See if while holding in crank will it start?
Good idea, I'm headed out to my brother's where the sled it and I'll try that when I get there.
 

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How about. Put the key in the Run position and just jumper the solenoid on the starter (kind of a pain to reach). If it starts, you know it is the key switch.

Alternately, you can apply 12 volt to the ignition wire that has the fuse on it (solenoid activation circuit).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good idea, I'm headed out to my brother's where the sled it and I'll try that when I get there.
Tried it. First time I've pulled that rope and hoped it didn't start. But, it started while being held in the crank position.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, I'm back to what kccats suggested in the first reply. The ignition switch. I discovered the yellow/black wire and ground were shorted. I clipped the ohm-meter in place and started unhooking things until the short went away.
The short went away when I pulled the plug off the back of the ignition switch. So, since I couldn't find one locally one is on the way. It may end up not being the problem but at least I'll know for sure.
Thanks for the help. I'll be sure and post back after I install the switch.
 

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The stator puts out AC voltage at about 12-35 volts. The coil has a primary and secondary winding that bumps that voltage up to 15000 to 25000 volts. So even if the electricity could get through the coil, the 35v is not enough to jump the gap in the plug.
 
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