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Discussion Starter #1
Hi i acquired a 93 Wildcat 700 EFI.

Initial problem was intake boot. I was able to get a new one for $40 and it fired right up on 2 no exhaust leaks idles perfect.

Ive seen this problem before.. So it idles fine revs up on the stand and under no load. When i first took it out of the garage it started to stumble at 4k exactly and wont go above 4k it seems like either water in the gas tank or A shorted wire.

Thing is it seemed to get better and better after drving it. Its like in the grass it will rip to 6 or 7 g's but on my lake it seems to stumble more. There is snow on it but ur slippin. No studs on this.

I read on here someone said bypass the 4 prong connector from the stator. I tried that, but my bypass only has 2 plus so i had to try it 2 different ways. No difference. I went back to unbypassing it same thing. was i not bypassing correctly?

i had a melted wire coming from the stator (timing sensor i believe) two wires white and brown). I fixed it but the wire was a bit Blue. Could this wire affect this?

Plugs are new and good. What could i test to see if this is a short. Already bypassed KS/ IS and Tether. Maybe its in the center loom im not sure.

My buddy had a 440 did the same thing but ended up being water in the tank? But my thing is it doesn't:cheeky4: seem like fuel delivery is a prob because it will do a little pop at that 4k point ( thinking it means its still getting fuel but spark is going away. Any way to test the CDI or anything?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
PLease help TSS or High speed stator.

Anybody welcome to suggest anything. Could this be CDI or TSS
 

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on my zrt it would stumble around 4500 5000 rpms but then connect better at wide open and i disconnected the tss and its ran perfect ever since
 

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try bypassing the kill/tss to start with:

 

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Could be stator related. your ohms are 450 and 45.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Kccats for pointing out fuel pressure. I will get a gauge from someone tongiht and get to that.

So yesterday i was able to Ohm the stator and i got within spec readings on H/L with the 3 prong plug. Also mine may already have a rebuilt stator as the harness is white from the stator not Black/Brown/Green. Thing is we have another WC and i tested his stator and mine is better.

As far as KS and TSS if i bypass the entire 4 prong plug from the stator doiesnt that eliminate all electrical. Well i have done that and it ran the same so does that mean those are ruled out??

Also swapped his coil and CDI no change. So i have the seat off and i noticed the black ground that runs from the Stator to the ECU/Battery is running between cooling lines not looking good. I cleaned up all plugs and i will run a new ground tonight. My question is Could this affect the fuel pump.

Kccats what should i expect to see on the Gauge 36 psi constant. Where is the fuel pump powered from? the Relay behind the ECU.

Took it on our street with 2" of pow and she rips. Only doesnt like load. Gets shut down in the snow on the lake. Thanks everyone. ANy thoughts
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Any chance this is a primary clutching issue? not too familar with clutches. Belt is new. But it doesnt keep revving it will lug the motor down.

Feels like a TSS or something but they are all bypassed. Not sure anyone welcome to sugget anythign. Ill get a FP tester on it today and report back. IF my fuel pressure was low, whats next? actual pump

battery is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok sorry im going crazy about this at work not being able to do anything.

So i am going to go home and clean all dirt wires. Im running a new ground from ECU/BATT to stator. Also im going to test the FP at the rail and see what we get. If its bad i have access to another WC same year and ill swap fuel pumps.

I may just do that anyway and see what happens. This MOFO is a PITA.

Must say you EFI guys impress me. Patience is key here. Im young and still learning but i would never pay to have anyone touch my machines, thanks again for everyones help.

KCcats! Dude is always right.

Hopefully this beast rips tonight. Well see. Also longshot, but could i be dumping too much oil or is that not related. could that shut it down. Pops was behind me saying im burning mad oil. Or is this because i have less gas.
 

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Go directly to the wiring under the bar cover and use the bypass plug on the TSS/kill assembly and see if that helps.
I'm also thinking that the sensor that you mentioned above may be the issue, do you have the shop manual for that sled?

The ignition timing sensor has green/white and brown wires.
Use X100 setting connect the red probe to green/white and black to the brown.
Reading must be 101ohms +/- 20%.

The injection timing sensor has white/black and brown wires.
Reading must be 190 ohms +/- 20%.

i had a melted wire coming from the stator (timing sensor i believe) two wires white and brown). I fixed it but the wire was a bit Blue. Could this wire affect this?
It sounds as if your problem may actually be the injector timing sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the TIP RJ i will ohm both of them. I actually ohmed the timing sensor and it was fine, but as stated the bad wire is After the sensor going to the ECU or CDI (i forget off hand).

I will try the ignition timing sensor. I have some 500 page manual for generic AC 90-97 but no wiring for Wildcat so im all over the place.

More and more i read into these things its like the same thing. My stator ohmed out better than a running wildcat same year it was strange. So if i replaced all CDI and ingintion parts (borrowed not bought:) at this point im looking at shorted wire delivering that power or signal and or fuel pump which i will find out tonight. Thanks for the info RJ. can i test the wires at the injector for proper signal?

Any way i can bypass those signal wires to the ECU. to eliminate a break in the wire?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
RJ can you verify if i bypassed the 4 prong from the CDI to run just on the motor would that not eliminate the KS or TSS? or could a broke wire still draw the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Home from work im about to go work this thing again. Im going with wiring first, ill clean everything up all grounds. test signal wires . Run it.

If it occurs again im going straight to fuel.
Starting with pump wiring.if not Ill pull that pump out. It seems to me these things get clogged and nasty, could be dying too. Gonna try to shake it out. it doesn't seem totally dead it just seems not capable of full load? maybe symptom that its done or dying. It doesn't seem to get progressively worse or better so that's why im on wiring or gas.

If it happens after that i have a swappable pump from another WC a block away at the parents and that's going in.

Maybe just drain the whole tank and flip it over. ( I Have the seat off) just to make sure nothings in there. Lets hope we get somewhere.

My thing with KS is already bypassed when i got it. Also TSS is nowhere to be found he moved it somewhere. What color wires is the TSS from the harness? i would assume jumping that CDI 4 plug would fix that, but it didn't.

Also thanks to everyone for helping out on this forum everyone has provided great feedback and advise. Just trying to get this beast back in action!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok so i just found something nuts. coming off of the battery i have a harness that has 2 red power wires going to this harness above the amplifier looking thing in the footwell behind the ECU
its like a 4 inch adapter almost and than those wires turn into two red striped wires that run to the brown thing on the back of the ECU.

That brown has a brown W/black striped wire that i believe is the ground for the fuel pump. So this 4 inch connector is toasted. one of the wires is literally broken in half. I think i may have found something. the wires are pink and blue? anyone?

Welll i def found something, but well see if this is it. I went through all plugs while i was here. ill be back
 

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Ok so now we are on fuel. Wiring is fixed, but got me nowhere. At least i know now that its taken care of.. somewhat

I pulled the fuel pump and there was 2 pickups with the screens on them. I found a old Metal gas gauge broken off and the pickup was laying on it. Also the tank looks gross. I also noticed that there is a small rip in the screen on the rear pickup. Could this be causing air to get in there

I am also noticing that people tend to say they run like s**t with small amounts of gas. I have almost a half tank.

Are the pickups just replacable? Is there no way to load the pump out of the tank. It runs fine and puts gas to the rail but falls on its face at load.

I wasnt able to get a FP gauge yet so im getting that tonight.
 

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That gauge will be a good indication.

Mine ran fine, bogged when working hard - put on the gauge and I was losing pressure into the fuel rail.

I made mine with a 4' tube to the gauge so I could get it to the handbars to watch it while I drove....just a suggestion.
 

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That brown has a brown W/black striped wire that i believe is the ground for the fuel pump. So this 4 inch connector is toasted. one of the wires is literally broken in half. I think i may have found something. the wires are pink and blue? anyone?
You have found the fusable link, cost me $15 at the dealer.
One side feeds power from the battery to the pump relay and the other feeds power to the ECU box.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Rj thanks for the Info. Yes i badly need a FP gauge. Here the thing. Where are the fuses located or is it just a literal link? i just unplugged it and plugged it into the 4 inch one going to my battery. is this okay??

No difference. I think it may have been a problem, but sled still acted the same. When i turn the key on i heat the pump and i also hear the relay behind the ECU make avery small click. I may try and swap those blue and browm relays i heard they can be used as a test.

The pickups looked like crap in the tank and there was a very small tear in one of the pickup screens. Also there was legit rust at the bottom of the tank so im emptying the whole thing. Filling it. Going to try and run the pump backwards and than remove the Smart valve and just have a line sucking fuel just to test it. Without the valve it should pickup just fine correct. Only problem being no screening.

All signs are pointing to this pump, but im still not ruling out stator. I wonder how the sled was even functioning with that wire toasted?

Must not have gotten it to that point yet. Stuck at work till 4 so if anyone has anythign else to suggest while im at it appreciate it. Thank RJ

Also Renrip was the pump your issue or what happened?
 

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I have only ever found the 10amp fuse that is inline from the rectifier to the battery and that fusable link that is in the heavy red wire from the battery to the relays.
I would not advise running it very long (test purposes only) without that in there as it protects the pump and the ECU.

It would be well worth your money to buy the sled specific shop manual (cost me $30 hard copy) through a dealer and shipped to my door.
That's how I found the fuse link last year when it just quit on me one day, the side that powers the fuel pump burnt through.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Cat down!

Ok so i ran it without smart valves just as a test. Same experiance. Now i am draining the whole tank and cleaning ill put new lines on. Maybe a bad ground to the fuel pump. Anyone Experiance this?

Thanks RJ. Yeah i am going to go get a manual as i dont know what the origional TSS wires were, but trying to find those origional wires. Anyone know what color they are and where they come from.

I hope someone has this manual in stock becuase i am going to need it. LOL

I PM'd blaine on stator testing questions to make sure i am getting the correct reading 100%.

I may just rewire the whole thing this sled is a mess and giving me headaches. id rather do it once so i know its good for a fact.

SO i am like still not ruling out Battery, fuel, Shorted wired, stator.

Battery is unknown to me really, but when i have a meter on it and i rev it when it starts to act up the voltage does not go down at all. ITs like constant 13.56 or something. Also when i dies, it just starts right up so i cant imagine it wont hold a charge. Could this be? one bad cell or the stator?

Could it also be wiring from the stator.

Also i am going to t into the pump i noticed a small amount of moisture on the fuel line going over that shaft under the airbox. Could a pinhole or something really do this or would i be seeing gas leaking?

Someone else threw out pinched gas line, but there are no restrictions that i can see. I think the moisture is just coolant spill but ill run new fuel lines in case.
 
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