I have a 99 XC 700 i am so frustrated with, I get the thing running but it will not move.... The track is in decent shape but just spins when i hit the gas and sinks into the ground. Its like there isnt enough weight on the back of the sled to get it to push the front. Its sad when I have to snowblow a path for a snowmobile and even then it still wont move. I have a Polaris Sportsman 600 4x4 that is towing this snowmobile around. the track is even picked. Its on the slightest incline and will not move. Do I really need to town this thing around to a decline to get it to move... The track has probably 3/4-1inch of tread on it with picks.
Why wont this thing move?!?!
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You're saying that the track is spinning, but the sled won't move? With studs, it shouldn't matter what the tread on the track looks like. Could you post pictures of what it looks like and how it's sitting? It just seems really odd.
What happens if you sit on the sled - all the way at the back?
What happens if you sit on the sled - all the way at the back?
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Wierd, are the skis frozen to the ground? Somethings definatly wrong.
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Yeah, A bunch of ice frozen onto the bottom of the skis acts like that. Short winter days mean trying to do things after work - in the dark. Tough spot. Any luck? I'll assume that if you don't answer, you're out riding.
check the toe in/out of your skis. you might have hit something and not have even noticed causing your skis to not be right. had that happen on my old polaris indy. my track would spin but couldn't go anywhere in the snow. i could only move on the road when it was iced over. or theirs something on the bottom of the skis but my bet is your skis are out of wack.
I got your back on this one Wesley...
and this is based on the identical problem I had last year with my XC600, mine was so bad I couldnt run down a hard packed trail (but I created my own problem)
First let make sure I am on the same page, and these other guys will also better understand. for the sake of understanding, the sled is sitting in the back yard on a nice 10 inch base of snow, nothing is frozen to the ground, and mechanically under the hood everything is fine.
You start the sled, let it warm up, you climb on and hit the gas, the track spins, shoots a roost of snow and the rear of the sled sinks to the grass and the sled never moves an inch.
You have a rear suspension problem !! been there, done that, bought the Tee shirt...
Now, let me ask you a few questions, and I'll also through in some answers to fix your problem.
I am assuming this thing is an Xtra 10, was it ok last year? or did you just get the sled? Have you done any work to the rear suspension? Made any adjustments to the rear suspension?
In a nutshell what your sled is doing is coupling the rear to the front suspension arms just from sitting on the sled, this could be caused from a maladjustment, or pivot points in the rear suspension corroded and frozen. i did a lot of research on this last year trying to get my sled to ride better. rear to front coupling puts a ton of weight on the ski's, and only uses about the last 1/4 of the rear of the track to move the sled, so it digs a trench and sits there. Arctic Cats around the same year did not use any kind of a stop behind the scissor arm, thats why cats do a wheelie so good.
Here is what I would do assuming you just got the sled, or havent done anything to the rear suspension. Pull the skid frame out of the sled, pop the shocks loose and make sure all the pivot points are moving free, if not, get them free'd up.
Next, look at the front limiter straps, they are adjusted by a long bolt, you should have about half an inch of threads showing from the nut, to the tip of the threads. Plus or minus 1/4 inch or so is ok.
Now look at the rear scissor stop blocks (with the springs and shock installed) there should be a gap between both the front and rear scissor stop block and the scissor arm. (if the rear block is touching, or very close to touching, that one is your "wont move" problem) these blocks have 4 sides, each side will change that gap. There are also 2 possible bolt holes you can bolt the blocks to the rails with. Look under the hood on the clutch guard, there should be a picture and basic settings where these blocks would be set at from the factory. Just using the factory settings will get the front end up and the sled moving just fine!
Hope this helps
JR
and this is based on the identical problem I had last year with my XC600, mine was so bad I couldnt run down a hard packed trail (but I created my own problem)
First let make sure I am on the same page, and these other guys will also better understand. for the sake of understanding, the sled is sitting in the back yard on a nice 10 inch base of snow, nothing is frozen to the ground, and mechanically under the hood everything is fine.
You start the sled, let it warm up, you climb on and hit the gas, the track spins, shoots a roost of snow and the rear of the sled sinks to the grass and the sled never moves an inch.
You have a rear suspension problem !! been there, done that, bought the Tee shirt...
Now, let me ask you a few questions, and I'll also through in some answers to fix your problem.
I am assuming this thing is an Xtra 10, was it ok last year? or did you just get the sled? Have you done any work to the rear suspension? Made any adjustments to the rear suspension?
In a nutshell what your sled is doing is coupling the rear to the front suspension arms just from sitting on the sled, this could be caused from a maladjustment, or pivot points in the rear suspension corroded and frozen. i did a lot of research on this last year trying to get my sled to ride better. rear to front coupling puts a ton of weight on the ski's, and only uses about the last 1/4 of the rear of the track to move the sled, so it digs a trench and sits there. Arctic Cats around the same year did not use any kind of a stop behind the scissor arm, thats why cats do a wheelie so good.
Here is what I would do assuming you just got the sled, or havent done anything to the rear suspension. Pull the skid frame out of the sled, pop the shocks loose and make sure all the pivot points are moving free, if not, get them free'd up.
Next, look at the front limiter straps, they are adjusted by a long bolt, you should have about half an inch of threads showing from the nut, to the tip of the threads. Plus or minus 1/4 inch or so is ok.
Now look at the rear scissor stop blocks (with the springs and shock installed) there should be a gap between both the front and rear scissor stop block and the scissor arm. (if the rear block is touching, or very close to touching, that one is your "wont move" problem) these blocks have 4 sides, each side will change that gap. There are also 2 possible bolt holes you can bolt the blocks to the rails with. Look under the hood on the clutch guard, there should be a picture and basic settings where these blocks would be set at from the factory. Just using the factory settings will get the front end up and the sled moving just fine!
Hope this helps
JR
I just re-read my post to you and I think I stated one thing wrong, the placement of the rear scissor arm blocks. You want to check those with the rear skid installed back in the sled. With it removed, the rear arm is free to move forward or back with the springs hooked up and would give a false idea as to if the scissor arm blocks are positioned right. My apologies. I am 100% sure you will get this thing riding great!
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Sticky material.
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Echo!
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