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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I just bought a 96 Vmax 600 this spring and would like to know the common maintanance to do on it. I have a couple 1980's sleds before this, and I am sure theres some things I will overlook on this newer sled. How about issues with this sled?? Anything I need to keep an eye on, things that are known to go wrong? Are there any grease Zerts? OH, and the most important question, is it neccesary to use Yamalube 2 cycle oil in these, or will any 2 cycle oil work? Thanks in advance.
 

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Breaker of Balls
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any high quality oil, synthetic or otherwise, is recommended.

you should find zirc fittings all around your suspension under your tunnel, you might find one near where the ski and front suspension meet.

as far as routine maintenance, drain your gas tank at the end of the season, shut your fuel off, raise the track off the ground, clean your carbs, drain your cylinders, and cover it at the end of the season.

there's probably a lot more im not listing but i cant think of them right now.
 

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Breaker of Balls
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** yamalube is probably the best, im not sure if doo's run better with something else but that's what everyone around here uses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is it still reccommended to raise the track off the ground if it is stored inside a shed with concrete floor? whats the reason? Also, I noticed I am missing one of the hood tiedown strap pegs, which allows the hood to come up high enough for the lower belly door to open while riding, which aint good. anyone know the part number for it so I can get one.
 

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Breaker of Balls
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yes, i would raise the track off the ground no matter where you store it.

im not sure, but i think its to keep it from sticking to the hyfax and just to keep your suspension loose and working.

maybe for the time being you cold just tie the hood down with a shot of line? thats what i would do till i got a strap.
 

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which aint good. anyone know the part number for it so I can get one.

8V0-77175-00

much like everything else, they are vastly cheaper on ebay/swapmeet/classifieds compared to dealer costs, IF your dealer can even get these... You can also just find a bolt that matches the threading and run that in, with a couple wraps of black tape to protect the rubber cord. (use your real knob on the clutch side, use the bolt on the other side as you don't need to open that plastic compartment)

I bought a couple on ebay late last year for $3 each
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for your help and info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I noticed that under the windshield/headlight there is a piece of foam. But there is no foam covering the fresh air intake, is there supposed to be a foam filter for the fresh air intake? Also, does anyone here have an Owners Manual I can have, either hard copy or computer type file?? Thanks.
 

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you should have that foam filter in place. it actually restricts airflow and you will upset the jetting without it. read as lean conditions. if you havent found that little star nut for your hod strap, let me know. i have a few laying around with no sleds to fit them
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well I have looked on the online parts fiche's and cant find a listing for the foam filter for the air intake. Anyone have a part number? And where does it go, in the hood part? I have found a seller on ebay for them hood strap posts, but waiting for him to add more on so I can buy 2 of them. If you are willing to part with yours, I'ld be willing to take them. Thanks so much. OH, and I did check out the manuals section and it took me to a third party site, and it wanted me to register and I didnt really want to unless I have to.
 

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i sell manuals that are shipped direct to you on cd. dont confuse me with the download guys.

part # for the foam filter is 89A-2199J-00-00. dont waste your money, make your own from open cell foam. you will have to cut it to fit from a product known as "gutter guard", available at most the larger home improvement centers. service manual on cd and 2 hood strap nuts to your door for $15.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I assume you are talking about the gutter guard that is foam that fits inside the gutter, not the mesh screen that fits on top?? And does the foam go into the hood?? does it go just in the rectangle hole that matches upto the box on the carbs, or the whole area that is open around the hole in the hood?
And how do I pay you for the cd and posts? paypal? what all is on the cd?

thanks again.
 

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yes, the gutter guard foam material. it needs to fit where the hood meets the tank. problem was back then it would stay in place and most people lost it or tossed it.

send me a private message concerning parts and cd manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK, I figured I would post here as this would probally fit this thread best. While working on my Vmax today I noticed that the area around the exhaust manifold is extremely wet and black. I first thought it was a oily buildup, but now am not so sure as I also noticed that there is antifreeze at the 3 studs/nuts above the manifold. I have noticed that I am loosing a small amount of antifreeze from the system over time, now am assuming it is exiting from these studs. Will antifreeze cause the black/wetness around the exhaust manifold? And how do I stop this leak around the studs/nuts?? I have attached pictures so you can see what I am talking about.

P2070200.jpg

P2070201.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Also while I was working on my Vmax secondary sheave, I found that when I turn the sheave back and forth, there is what I consider quite abit of slop or play. I can turn the sheave where the outside edge moves about 3/4" without the brake disc moving at all. and all the play is in the gearbox btw. Is the normal or abnormal? Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
One more thing .. I removed the seat to put a new mud flap on and found there is a wire connector that goes to a wire that goes into the seat. What is this for?
 

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I noticed in some manuels they say you can remove top filter in warmer wheather,install top filter for cold
Thats sort of odd... The only reason i'd see for removing that with temperature changes would actually be the opposite. When it warms up, the air is less dense so a carb will tend to run richer. Removing an obstruction will allow it to breathe a little easier. What they are suggesting will make the problem worse.

In either case, its best to leave it in place though!
 
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