Im swapping out the track on a vmax 600, and im having problems with the chaincase/brake disc. I already have the rear skid off but i cant get the brake disc off to open up the chain case. I already have the secondary cluthc off too. what am i missing?
should just be 2 bolts for the caliper(dont mess with the auto adjust or squeeze the brake while the rotors off). i assume you already have it off. the rotor is splined on the jackshaft. its probably rusted or corroded on. maybe a bit more persuasion to break it loose?
problem is with it being up against the case like it is its hard to get a swing at it. maybe prying between the rotor hub and chaincase? use discretion here, that hubs alot harder than the case. i would not suggest heat as there is a seal right behind it.
some penetrant like pb blast may help, just be sure to use brakeclean on the rotor when it goes back on.
Alright i got it off, after unbolting the rotor from its center hub. had to pull on that and bang the shit out of it to get it to come off.
Now i have another question. To get the chain case cover off the top spline axel came out with it. This is ok i assume?
Next we cant get the actaul drive shaft out.We slide it all the way to the other side and it doesnt have enough room to slip out. We took the circlip off the bearing to try and get that out but couldnt. So do we have to pull the back cover of the chain case off to get the clearence to remove the drive shaft?
so you must have a 94 with the 2 pc shaft. inspect the bearing its in on the case cover, as well as the back half of the chaincase. i have never had one stick in there before.
you have to remove the back half of the chaincase to get the drive axle out. three more bolts and it should be free. be sure and account for the alignment pins between the case cover and housing, they like to drop and roll.
i assume the bearing cover is removed from behind the secondary and the set screw is removed from the driveshaft bearing on that side.
with the back half of the chaincase removed, the shaft will move to the secondary side and have just enough room to drop out of the chain side, once you wrestle the drivers past the track lugs.
ok i think im missing the part about the bearing on the clutch side of the drive shaft. There is a bearing there, but no set screw on it. I tried getting it off but i dont want to run the bearing or speedo slot.
If the jackshaft is sapoosed to slide out of the chaincase side i dont see how this should effect it. But with the whole chaincase removed theres still not enough clearence for it to slide out. I would take a picture but my sister has the camera with her.
i may have not explained that clearly. from what i think your saying, you believe the entire shaft comes out that hole on the chaincase side?
what i was trying to say was that the shaft will slide as far to the clutch side as possible and drop out of the chaincase side into the tunnel area. i left out the part about into the tunnel. it only clears the tunnel by a fraction of an inch. if the bearing on the clutch side does not slide on the shaft, it will not allow the shaft to move far enough to that side to come out.
sometimes what i think i said i meant and what i type dont always jive, but once we get on the same level, we can figure it out.
I got what you ment that it needs to slide out of the tunnel. I was just having problems with the bearing on the clutch side thats on the jack shaft. But it came off and got everything out.
Now its preatty much back together except for lining up the holes for skid to bolt back in. We need like a half inch more for it too work, and unfortantly that is on the rear axel adjustment. But the rear axel is froze and wont go foward or backward.
So thats tommorows project to get that unfroze and slide it foward.
And just to make sure, you want to bolt the front of the skid in first? Like just the single bolt pivot bar, then the rear with the three hole bracket?
yes, front in first. elaborate a bit more on the axle issue. i dont think i have ever seen one not slide forward in the adjusters, unless the axle is seized to the rails, or are the adjuster bolts not wanting to turn? you are aware that the side of the axle with the 17mm head nut on it does not remove? its actually roll pinned to the axle, the 19mm on the other side will come off, but only needs to be loosened to move the axle forward after loosening the adjusters. something doesnt sound right.