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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, long time reader first time poster on this site. I picked up my sled (98 Mach 1 700 triple) after it sat at a friends place for two years (outside, under awning) with the primary clutch and recoil torn apart. I've recently put it all back together, siphoned all the fluids out/put new fluids in, new plugs and the sled fires up and idles "pretty good". However, when I hit the throttle the engine just revs up and the sled does not move. I look under the hood and the primary is rotating but not the belt or secondary. I cannot rotate the secondary by hand with the engine turned off but I'm not sure if I should be able to or not since at some point in the drive train something is not going to turn with just the power of a couple hands. I've done some reading, mainly on this forum, and I decided to open up the chain case and take a look. The chain and sprockets as far as I can tell look like they are in great shape. The oil/lubricant however, well there wasn't any. It was almost like wet paint on the inside of the chain case and other than that there was no lube at all. I was expecting some to drain out, etc. I'm going to pick up some 85w90 synthetic blend gear oil tonight. About 8 oz will do the trick right? Also, what's the chances that once I get this lube in there that the track will decide to move? I guess I'm just thinking that with the gears in such great shape that they should be turning at this point even without a whole reservoir of lube.

Thoughts? Any help to get this sled moving is greatly appreciated!!
 

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Your Belt /Secondary should rotate once your primary engages, at idle they wont rotate.

If your Revving it up and your still not seeing the Belt/Secondary move, Id suggest your Primary may be the problem, maybe it needs to come off and be serviced.

when you revv it, do you see the primary engage & squeez the belt. does the belt start to smoke or smell at all.?

do you find that it Revv's up very easily? and does it return to idle quickly.?

if you put the back of the sled on a stand, can you rotate the secondary, can you pull/rotate the track? is the track tension ok?

just a few questions that may pin it down a bit
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply Dave.

Tonight when I get home I'll put the gear oil in and fire it up and take a look at the behavior of the primary when I revv it up.

I don't think it revvs up abnormally easily, however if I remember correctly I think it did actually return to idle quite quickly. What does this mean?

I've been wanting to get the back end raised to be able to diagnose this further but have been covering all other bases first I guess because there's no real easy way for me to get it raised.
 

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If it wasnt returning to Idle, ie i kept revving or took a long time to wind down, it may indicate stuck primary with low/no belt tension. ie like running the sled with no belt on it (not a good idea). sounds like your Ok on that symptom.

to lift the back end use a sled lift/stand on the rear grab bar or put it up on a block of some sort. be sure it secure though, you dont want it falling off while your pulling on the track. concrete block works, a large diamiter log, etc. just be safe, you dont want it fallin' on you, or the block coming out while your revving the seld & spinning the track.

Still...my Guess is the Primary is not engaging. you indicated in the first post that Primary was apart, and you put it back together. Id say something may not be right in there
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright I'll try to find something to prop the rear on. If I revv it up and the primary does in fact engage (move in towards the belt), can I rule out the primary at that point? When it was apart, it was only the outside half of it that was taken off, I did not get into the main spring. I made sure that when I put it back on I remembered to include the 6 rubber buttons, and the 3 levers all rotated freely (one a bit less so than the other 2 though). I sprayed some WD40 on each one too. Does it sound like I missed anything on the re-assembling?

I have a spare belt, would it be worth going down the path of swapping the belt out?

I guess we'll know more once I get it propped up, so tonight I'll put the gear oil in and fire it up, check to see if the primary is engaging, and if so, then prop the rear and see what else may be the issue.
 

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Sconnie
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yup. rule out stuff one at a time. if the clutch engages, it means it is a problem somewhere else in the drivetrain. the belt wouldn't be the problem. neither would the loss of chaincase oil, but you should certainly have some in there.

for future reference, you don't want to put wd-40 on the clutches. they are designed to run dry. the film will atract belt dust and make it dirtier over time. if anything, use brake cleaner, then blow them off with compressed air.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks jKsled. i'll post my findings (if any) tonight. like dave said i'm guessing that the primary won't engage when i hit the throttle. if this is the case what should my next steps be? buy a whole new primary or take it somewhere to have it serviced? could it be something rather simple inside the clutch that i could look into?
 

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Sconnie
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i'm not too familiar with the clutch design off those skidoo's, but if that is the problem it is something you could do by yourself. you probably won't even need a clutch puller, you'll just need to take the faceplate and ?spider? (i think it's called) off and see what needs rebuilding. or, it could just be kinda corroded and dirty, and all it needs is a really good cleaning
 

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ZR rider
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So the primary is or isn't engaging? What is your compression? If you have good compression I'd start by pulling the clutch and cleaning it. The weights may need replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm going to find out tonight whether or not the primary is engaging. I had the faceplate off and it didn't look too dirty or corroded inside there. I sprayed WD40 on the weights which sounds like I shouldn't have done, but they all three move freely, although one a little "less freely" than the other two. After enough centrifugal force you'd think that even the one that isn't moving so freely would spin in like it should, enough to engage the clutch, right?
 

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ZR rider
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No, even one can throw it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update:

The primary actually does engage. It grabs the belt and the sled gives a quick jerk like it wants to go but doesn't, and if I rev it too high the engine acts like it wants to die so I have to lay off the throttle. At one point it actually moved about a half foot but that was it. I thought it came to life! I didn't find anything to prop the rear on but will do so tomorrow or over the weekend, or for that matter I may just lift it up while a buddy hits the throttle, just to see if the track will move while in the air. I've put gear oil in the chaincase (the forward/reverse lever seems to go up and down much smoother :).

Could it be the belt? The secondary clutch? Something in the engine just not up to speed to pull such a big sled? It sounds good when running, as if the engine is actually performing like it should. Any ideas/insight before I prop it up?
 

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Sconnie
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it'll be something in the drivetrain it sounds like.

your engine is only bogging down becaue it's trying to pull the sled forward but it can't go. something is frozen up, and if your engine is running with no bog or hesitation, the problem is in the clutches or drivetrain. let us know what you find with the sled up!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Are the brake pads rusted to the rotor, or is the track frozen to the ground?
The rotor is a little rusted but the pads are about a quarter inch away from the rotor and I can move the rotor a couple inches either way and stop the rotor with the brake while doing it. I made sure the skis were not iced to the ground and lifted the rear and dropped it a few times so it can't still be frozen. What I need to do is somehow get it in the garage to let it thaw out. It's current sitting in about a foot of snow so that can't be helping any potential frozen parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Flip it on it's side and look to see if the track is jammed,or something is jamming it.Try turning the track by hand.
I'm hoping to have some help tonight to be able to do this as the sled is definitely not light and I don't want to have a ski snap off or something in the process of rolling it. Any particular items I need to look out for when turning it on its side aside from making sure the oil, coolant and gas caps are on tight? Is one side better than the other to have facing down?
 

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Just shut the gas off.Remove the cap on the oil tank,put a plastic bag under the cap and screw it back on so no oil leaks out of the vent on the cap.Check for broken parts that may be jammed in the drive sprockets or in the windows(holes) in the track.Is there still oil in the chain case.You noted at the beginning of this tread that the case was empty.Is it leaking somewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just shut the gas off.Remove the cap on the oil tank,put a plastic bag under the cap and screw it back on so no oil leaks out of the vent on the cap.Check for broken parts that may be jammed in the drive sprockets or in the windows(holes) in the track.Is there still oil in the chain case.You noted at the beginning of this tread that the case was empty.Is it leaking somewhere?
By shut off the gas, you mean the little red lever that is currently (if I remember right) turned parallel with the gas line right? When I initially opened the chain case there was no oil in there. Last night I put 8 ounces of new gear oil in. I'm assuming it will be best to turn the sled over with the clutches down, seeing how the fluid tanks seem to all be on the right side.
 

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If the oil tank is sealed with a plastic bag,it don't matter what side.If the oil tank was not sealed I'd put it on the chain case side.Only so the oil doesn't leak on the air box filters and guages.If the chain case is leaking the bearing could be shot on the drive axel.
 
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