[adkrider]

The time is come to change out the drive bearings in both sleds. The 93 tcat and 94 wildcat. The bearings still look intact, but I dont want to run the risk of damage. Both speedo's have stopped working Searched the forums but still a few questions remain.
- Should I change both bearings on the driveshaft? It seems like the bearing in the chaincase would have a longer life due to the sealed case/fluid lub?
- Should I go OEM: (1602-375 Bearing, 1 in. w/Lock Collar $30.30 ) chaincase side: 1702-179 KIT,REPLACEMENT BEARING-1in. $33.28 OR
go with Royal Distributing 2011 Fall/Winter Catalogue
Looks like they make kits for most arctic cat sleds.

While Im in there, what other parts should I replace to get the speedo working? So far, here is what I've got:
0602-154 Cable, Adapter $3.35
0120-247 . Bushing, Drive $2.97

Thanks in advance!

 

[COOKSTER]

Royal distributing will be a lot cheaper than O.E. and at Princess Auto they are even cheaper. There is nothing special about the bearings, they are standard type that can be purchased at virtually any supplier that deals with bearings. At round 10 bucks each (or less), you should do both ends since you will have it dissassembled anyway.

 

[xxPOLARISBOYX]

Yes go with OEM, problems always happen when you go after market!

 

[BC_Dan]

While you can find cheaper bearings, the quality of the less inexpensive part is not normally as good as the more expensive. You can buy cheap bearings that will fit, but they won't last as long. I agree with Polarisboy, when it comes to driveline bearings, I like to use the best quality bearing I can get in there, I don't want to have to do it more frequently!

 

[COOKSTER]

Yes go with OEM, problems always happen when you go after market!

AC doesnt make their own bearings. If you buy a reputable brand (like they sell at Royal) they will be as good as or better than the ones you buy from AC.
They may even be the exact same bearing if they are sourced from the same supplier. Im not "Anti-O.E." but I dont believe in paying extra $ unless I know the O.E. is superior.

 

[rgoers]

Don't forget to put all the parts back on...

I just bought a used sled ('04) and my son pointed out that there was grease being slung on the under-side of the belt cover (from the jackshaft bearing). I looked at it, and something looked strange. Turns out whoever did the bearing change forgot to install the opposing flange and gasket. There's only one side (of the set) of flanges on there. Hmmm.... how do you forget that???

 

[smokingcrater]

as far as the speedo, you do not need the bushing, only the key. In my case, my speedo quit two weeks ago and I immediately replaced the bearing. The bearing itself was the EASY part, the speedo key was broken and I couldn't get the remaining piece out. Try a screw in it to pull it out, tried drilling, even tried drilling out the entire bushing and putting a new one in.

Long story short, no speedo for the rest of this year! Its going to be a summer project to pull the entire driveshaft out get it in the shop to get that sucker out of there.

 

[RJ Gleason]

Fafnir or NPN bearings are the same as OEM. I usually get NPN because they are less $$s and are available at Autozone.

 

[BC_Dan]

The key is getting at least as good of quality as OEM. The bearing place here that sells "same as" bearings cost more than the OEM does, delivered via the mail, so it's a no brainer for me. It would be nice to have less expensive quality options.

 

[RJ Gleason]

Been using them for years with no issues, the numbers are exactly the same as on the OEM bearings. Of course I am buying the "implement grade" bearings as they are better built.
Still only paying $7-12 each rather than $25-30 at the dealer.

 

[adkrider]

Been using them for years with no issues, the numbers are exactly the same as on the OEM bearings. Of course I am buying the "implement grade" bearings as they are better built.
Still only paying $7-12 each rather than $25-30 at the dealer.

Hey RJ, do you know of the top of your head what part #s I will need for those bearings?

 

[adkrider]

as far as the speedo, you do not need the bushing, only the key. In my case, my speedo quit two weeks ago and I immediately replaced the bearing. The bearing itself was the EASY part, the speedo key was broken and I couldn't get the remaining piece out. Try a screw in it to pull it out, tried drilling, even tried drilling out the entire bushing and putting a new one in.

Long story short, no speedo for the rest of this year! Its going to be a summer project to pull the entire driveshaft out get it in the shop to get that sucker out of there.

Yes, I can see where the cable has sheered off on my wildcat. How does this normally come out? Is the bushing threaded on?

 

[RJ Gleason]

I'll have to get back to you on the bearing #s.
Use a small screwdriver and a magnet, it may just slide right out.
If not, I use a dental pick to get that out. The insert is pressed in. You can drill it out and replace it if needed as it is only brass.

 

[ZRTEETH]

You might want to pull out that bearing in the chain case first and look at it before you get new ones. Because i thought that bearing had an o-ring on the inside bore that seals off the shaft.

 

[smokingcrater]

Yes, I can see where the cable has sheered off on my wildcat. How does this normally come out? Is the bushing threaded on?
[/IMG]

So at least it looks like your bearing is in good shape yet! After my speedo broke, I drove less than 1/2 mile at slow speed, and there was almost nothing left of the bearing. I found 2 balls total, the rest was shredded. At least it didn't damage the bearing carrier or the tunnel.

 

[ZRTEETH]

I didn't get so lucky one time. Me and a buddy were in the middle of one of the east coast blizzards last year and my whole drive shaft eat its way through everting until it came almost all the way out. It eat up my tunnel and broke my chain case. My track was completely locked up. Towing it home was a bitch!