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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok well here is my latest dillema. i took the engine that was all built up but was not getting spark and put it in my other sled that was getting spark and everything. the stator was dead on the built engine so i took the stator, fly wheel, and the points of the running engine and put on the built one. (built engine has a 440 racing base, same ad my sno pro base that was running, so all is the same) so after i get everything switched boom runs great for aobut 20 mins then no spark again. so wha tim wondering is when i test the stator with a test light i stick it in the stator plug (white one) and 2 of the 4 holes make it light up, and when i test the coild and cdi nothing at all. should all four holes on the white plug make it light up, if not does this mean it was a fluke and CDI jsut went.. please respond really bothering me.. o yah if anyone wants to know the built engine is a 440 sno pro base, chrome molly crank all polished, chrome molly rods polished, shaved heads, ported and plished carbs, and exhaust ports. running HUGE jets :) love the speed.
 

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Burn Baby Burn !!
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hi,

you can't test a stator with a test light...you need a multi-meter andvenbe then it won't be rock solid evidence of if it's good or not.

do you get the front light on when you crank it? even if it's dim it counts. coze if you it cannot be the stator.well not entirely blown up i mean


you got to test it when the engine is cranking.. get the two wires ( they should be the same colour..like yellow or soemthing )that go from the stator to the CDI and check out if something come out.. check it in AC voltage more.. not DC...you can unplug the CDI to test this and test it by the plug rather the splicing the wires.

if ya do get voltage there.. something like 8 - 50 volts depens.how hard you crank your stator might be ok.

next replug the sattor to the CDI and test the CDI.. fisrt short the 2 wires that go to the iginition swith, it be the problem.. if the swith is faulty it will not tell the CDI to give spark.

then test the wires that go to the coils.. you should get somwe voltage there... something like 12 volts or so.. might be lower since coils give spark when the CDI STOPS giving juice tot he coils... that lasts about a milisecond and then puts back the juice on them.

there was some one here who had a similar problem.. it was north.. i think it was his ignition switch.. check it it might not be a big $$$ problem afterall

oh and check if some wiere don't rub with the recoil rope or other things like that.. a cut wire and grounded wire can cause this ya know

fr0st
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well the thing is, is that all the eltrical was running perfect yesterday, i pulled the running engine and put in the engine that needed a new stator after done switching the engine it ran fine for about ten minutes then bam nothing at all, put the light on the plug coming out of the stator and it lite up brighter than bright, tested the cdi plug and nothing at all. i dont think it would be the ignition because it ran fine that day 5 minutes before i switched engine, and i didnt have to split any wires they were all the exact plugs. but cna a cdi go like that like a fluke?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
o sorry, i thought u meant the test light, yah the front light lights up brighter than bright when u pull it. oh and the stator came out of my perfectly running snowmobile same stator and everything. so what are the chances of the stator going bad just like that also?
 

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Burn Baby Burn !!
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well the thing about coils in varnish, just like in a stator, can go ground when the coil is hot.. when the temperature rises it can become completely ground, but i don't think it can go BAM! no more juice... since you see the front light runing when you crank it it must not be that...btw, the test, dont put it in the stator.. coze a stator cause get as much a 50 -70 volts out and that can burn the light bulb :)

i had an old bike, a CB 650 4 cylinder and the stator could get 75 volts on a 3 phase system.. so a sled must high too.. just don't know.. must depends on how new it is



try jumping the black and brown wire that comes from the stator this will by pass the kill and key if it starts then it your kill or key switch.

anyway if ya got juice out and a spare engine try the other CDI...mine is on the engine so yours must be too

and if you are absolutely sure that the iginiton switch is alright.. or maybe the wire going to it is fine and not unplugged for soem reason..

try the coils.. i dunno if ya have 2 but on a coil one wire goes directly to the ground- chassis assembly and the other goes to the CDI.... so the4 CDI control when spark is made.. so it might be the wire BETWEEN the CDI and the coils thats cut or something

you should test if you get voltage on the coils.. if you do get some then the CDI should not be toasted..then the coils would be the problem..

because if you do get voltage from the CDI to the coils it means your ignition is alright and the problem is lower.. maybe the ground to the engine???? if it's not grounded u will not get spark for sure


btw, if you get spark when its cold and not when its hot, I.E. 20 minutes after running, it can be 2 things.. stator or CDI.. electronic has that problem when it comes to heated up components.. such a stator with coils..


fr0st
 

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stator prbs

Does'nt sound like a stator problem, if your lights are working its definately not. Your coils may be bad though, had a mxz that would run fine until it got hot and the coils would break down. Once it cooled down it would start and run fine for awhile. Changed the coils and never had a problem again. I'd start there if I where you.Coils can test ok and still be junk, worth trying. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
well the thing is, is that it only ran for the first 20 minutes, then it stalled and wont get any spark at all now. i know all the wiring is perfect, didnt have to splice any wires everything connected properly... i know the kill switch and ignition are fine also as the worked fine right before i pulled the engine..... as for the stator not being bad because the light lights yup when pulling over is that completely true? because when engine B( the engine that is currently not working) was in my other sled the light would light up also and when i put the new stator on it it ran fine? i checked the coil no power at all coming from that, as there is now power at all coming out of the cdi. all grounds are fine. i dont have another working cdi. i have a zrt cdi and that didnt work on it. will a 98 zr 600 work on it? the order of the eletricity flow is- stator then cdi then coil then plug wires then plugs right? so if there is power from the stator and then next thing to check is cdi which i did and nothing. when testing the stator i plug the voltemeter in the white plug right? really starting to bother iv got tooo much time and mone in this already lol
 

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Burn Baby Burn !!
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ok

stop me if im wrong


1- we know that it works for about 20 minutes and then stops dead....does it do it alot? i mean did it do it ONCE and never ran after? or does it run for 20 minutes, stall, an when its cold again it will start up ( I.E. next morning) ?

2- IF it's stall only when hot and starts again when cold it cannot be an electrical problem as in wires or grounds.. it has to be electronic or coils... the only things thats can go bad when hot

3- we know that your light work when you crank it even when the sled does NOT start so the problem is not that...

4- thats leaves you either coils or the CDI( the electronic part hehe)

and it's hard to test a CDI you need a GOOD multimeter.. not a test lamp..and you need to test the wire that go to the coils..not the one that go FROM the coils to the chassis - ground

as for the coils themselves, it's possible thats coils go bad when hot and are ok when cold or the can taost when hot and never give spark again.

so thats leads you with trying to be sure that your CDI is not busted. test the output that go the coils.. it should be 12 volts or close when cranking. if you get something.. it has to be the coils then and there isin't much to test them.. unless you have a wavetek coil/capacitor tester....


fr0st
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok it only started one time, and never started after that, even after it cools down doesnt start at all now, the light does come on when i crank. i double checked EVERY single wire today everything is fine. lol i went down and bought a nice multi meter tonight at napa has AC and DC setting what do i set it on? AC 50? there is a bunch of different settings. thanx again frost
 

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Burn Baby Burn !!
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hey np :)


ok

to check out the stator..wich seems to be lright to me anyway, get on AC 50 mode should be alright. maybe AC 100 if you have it

for testing the coils you need DC voltage, im pretty sur of it.


but it looks to me like your stator is ok. not 100% sure but i don't think its that.

so it leaves you with 3 things

1- CDI
2-coils
3 ignition switch ( i know, i know, but hey if you don't test it you won't know. i guy named north here in the forum had the same problem and it turned out to be his stupid $#%#@ ignition switch)

to test the ignition switch , you have to hot wire the sled. coming out of the stator are 2 yellow wires, and one brown and one black wire.. jump the black and brown wire that comes from the stator this will by pass the kill and key if it starts then it your kill or key switch.

to test out the CDI , test it with the multimeter. put the multimeter on DC volts, put the black and red wires (on the multimeter) on the coils. each side.. black or red either way doesn't matter.. and then have someone crank the sled..unless you have aligator clamps on the multimter witch are handy i must say .. then crack it yerself and check out if ya get voltage.. something NEAR 8- 12 volts. mayeb even 6 volts.. since it's not constant voltage, i would be surprised to see 12... i did this on a few sleds and a ATV.. its' all the same :)

if you have voltage going to the coils and NOT when you take out the key ( juste to be sure)

then its must not be your CDI and that leaves you with the coils...

since juice goes in them and nothing comes out, inevitably, it has to be the coils..

try it out and let me know...but DO check the ignition and the kill switch ( the brown and black wire jumping)..it's sometimes the things with THINK ok thats are not :)


fr0st
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well your not gonna believe this.. i took the stator back of today took it to a dealership had them test it, and the other one i took off that i thought was bad and they both were perfectly fine. so i settled on the cdi. got back to my shop got ready to through the stator back in when a guy who works for my dad says hold on a minute, there was a screw in were the stator goes that was loose and sticking out, and it was touching the stator and grounding the piece of s $hit out! :).. lol all this work and getting pissed because a little screw was touching that stator. put it together and runs. lol. now i think i need to take it back off and put crank seals in :( idles VERY high and sperratic(SP?) synched thew carbs adjusted the chokes, and sprayed some ether in the clutch side crank seal spot and the base and the carb boots and no leaks there so only thing i can think of would be the stator crank seals... but im putting out 148lbs and 150lbs of compression in my cylinders! cant wait to let her rip. just gotta figure the ilde out. thanx SOOOOOO much for all your guys help
 

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Burn Baby Burn !!
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hey no problem

electrics/electronics is my kind of stuff in sleds.. :)


fr0st




"Anything I say? What a wonderful philosophy you have." Toe Cutter - Mad Max
 
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