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PanicAttack
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I'm going to put a 5" riser on my sled. A buddy said I should support the column in some way to keep it from bending which makes sense with the added stress on it from the extension when leaning and whatnot.

So, a couple friends gave me a couple ideas, and I'm looking for others... Money is definitely an issue at this point.

First idea: Go to SLP and buy a little support bushing for the column, it's almost $50 for the bushing, and it doesn't really look like it would do much to me.. maybe I'm wrong.

Second idea: I'm not exactly sure what he was talking about, but dude said take some all thread, drill it out (the part I'm not sure about), and then pound it down into the column, then tack weld it in.

Any other ideas that any of you may have would be welcome, this is going on a '00 700 RMK.
 

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i think what your getting at on the secocnd idea is probably the bet one. drill uout the metal on to p of the steering collumn,till you get to the inside of the stem. then find some steel pipe that will fit in there very snug, then just weld it in, and patch a littile bit of the mount if nessecary. id your rmk a flat top mount or pivot mount?
 

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keep us updated ive thought of doing it quite a bit myself since ive bent my post a tad with my 5 in riser, are you gonna do one plate riser or a rox riser or pivot adaptor/pivotriser?
 

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PanicAttack
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
just going to be a plate riser, I thought about putting on a pivot riser, but when I ride I'm generally back on the sled a little anyway, so I don't think it will be much of an issue. Tomorrow will be my last ride without the riser.. I can't wait to get it though, after riding other sleds with risers I know it's going to make a huge difference!
 

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How to stiffen the steering post. (Requires a die grinder and a welder.)
Polaris in their wisdom realized steering posts needed to be reinforced, so what they did was slide a short section of pipe inside the steering post pipe, and weld it in at the top, which also added some weld to the top of the plate. What Polaris DID NOT take into consideration was the length of that inner reinforcing pipe, at least not on my sled, as the inner pipe only went as far as the hoop / upper steering support. And of course where it bends is right below that…
Here is the fix that I came up with to stiffen the steering post on mid to late 80’s Polaris. Whether it will work on newer models I don’t know, as I don’t have a new sled.
The steering post on my 98 XC600 was tweaked when I got the sled, so I muscled it back into place. And my daughter and I both dumped the sled once and tweaked it again, and every time I muscled back into place you could feel it getting weaker.
Here is what I did to fix it. First, square up your bars so they are sitting straight, you can even go as far as grabbing a tape measure and triangulating a measurement to make sure they are perfect. Next ,unbolt the handlebars and carefully lay the whole works with wires and cables still attached as far forward as you can. On my sled there is a square or rectangular steel plate welded to the top of the post, you will see a bead of weld on the underside of the plate as well as on the top where it is welded to the pipe. With a die grinder and a high speed burr, carefully grind out the weld on the top being careful not to grind through the plate, as metal is removed you will see a parting line begin to show for the inner pipe. Once you can see the parting line all the way around, take a wire coat hanger and straighten it out, and put a V on one end that is narrow enough to slip inside the inner pipe, snag it, and pull it out. (on my sled it slid right out with ease)

On my sled the steering post goes down past the hoop and inch or two, then has a dog leg in it to clear the air box and oil tank, so I took a measurement from the top of the pipe to that first bend, I thnk it was around 10 inches. And I also measured the inside diameter of the steering post pipe, I think it was 3/4 inch. I then made a trip to my local Fleet farm and bought the longest 3/4 inch bolt I could get my hands on, I think it was 12 inches long.

Now, from under the hood on the Right side, find a spot where you can easily get to the steering post to drill a hole without taking half the sled apart, I was able to find a spot about an inch below the hoop, and I drilled a 3/8 hole in the side of the steering post.
Then I slide that long a## bolt down the steering post until it stopped, and marked a spot on top with a sharpie about 1/4 to 5/16 of an inch above where I cut out the previous weld, removed the bolt and cut it off at the sharpie mark. I slide the bolt back down the steering post and gave it a couple firm smacks with a hammer until it was lined up nicely with the cut out weld area. Now weld a bead around the top where it was previously welded, and also plug weld the bolt to that 3/8 hole drilled into the side of the steering post just below the hoop. Let it cool off, touch up the paint and put it back together !!
 

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PanicAttack
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490 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok so.. I finally got all the parts to put on my riser, so I did that.. and I didn't even think about taking pictures till after it was done.

But all I did was take off the bars, didn't have to drill or grind anything there was a 1/2" inside diameter hole, took a piece of all thread, about 10" long and pounded it down as far as I could with a hammer then tacked it in. Installed the riser and put everything back together and it seems really sturdy. So we'll see how it goes.

I did have a minor problem that almost turned into a major one while installing the PowerMadd throttle extension. After I got it all installed and the adjustment out as far as it would go I started the sled and it immediately rev'd to about 6k rpm and damn near took off on me which would've been bad because there was nothing between the sled and the highway... Luckily I had my hand on the brake and my buddy was quick on the kill switch. Since the adjustment was all the way out I had to screw in the throttle adjustments as far as I could on the carbs, and even then it still idles at about 2500 rpm, where it used to idle at about 1800 before putting in the extension. But at least it doesn't try to take off on me anymore. I don't know of any way to adjust the cables any more to let it idle lower, so for now it will have to work...
 
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