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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i found the right carb for my 85' Jag 440, but at idle the motor still seems very bogginy. i played with the jets and it didn't help. since it is oil injected i can adjust how much oil is mixed. the only problem is that i can't find out what the ratio would be at a certain point on the cable. I would just ditch the oil injection but i heard bad things about doing this on the jags. can someone help?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it seems to run good at high speeds, and the plugs don't seemed to be getting fouled at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it doesn't idle rough but know the plugs get so oil fouled that i need to almost have the air screw all the way out! as you probally read in my other post i have advanced the timing alittle and dropped a piolet from a 22.5 to a 20. i do notice though that if i try to screw the air screw in at all from where i am now it just gets way too rich and dies. i ditched the oil injection to geet that out of the picture and am now running a mixture of 40:1. i guess i could drop a few more piolet sizes, but why would this sled come stock running soooooooooooooo rich????
 

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Is there good air flow to the carbs? Is the air box OK? Does it spit fuel out the carb when you give it throttle? There are 2 things that can cause the problem- way too much fuel getting in, or way too little air....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well at first i didn't have an air box, and when i would change jets and etc i would notice that there was fuel right at the air holes that at at the back of the carb. since then i got the air box, cleaned it out and put it on. i havent really noticed any fuel being spit out of the carb. i mean i would greatly bet that before when i didn't have an air box the carb had plaenty of air flow but i still had this problem. any other suggestions?
 

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wornknobby said:
well at first i didn't have an air box, and when i would change jets and etc i would notice that there was fuel right at the air holes that at at the back of the carb.
What air holes? If they are the ones I think they are, the floats are set too high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the holes that are facing the air box. if i were to take the air box off right now and you looked at the carb you would see like 2 holes and another with the brass ball. i tried lowering the float level as the little tab that touches the needle and seat wasn't level with the arms. soo i made the little arm alittle lower than level and it didn't seem to do much. maybe should i go more?
 

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There shouldn't be fuel coming out those holes. Go more, and make sure the needles are good. They may be leaking by?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well the fuel isn't coming out from those holes its just that if i try to get the sled to idle the fuel will start to puddle up near them
By the way which "needles" do you mean? i only know of one

the only way i can geet this sled to idle is if i get it to idle very high by using the throttle screw. i'm also not sure what the average rpm's are for this sled at idle.
 

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The inlet needles that rest on the floats. Do the carbs ever drip fuel overnight (ie leak)? Average idle should be 1500 to 1600 RPM's. It stalls while idling lower? When it stalls do you need to give it throttle to start it again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
no the carb doesn't leak over night , it doesn't leak at all. and no the sled doesn't stall idleing lower becuase i can't get it to idle at 1600, i have it idleing to almost the point to engaging the clutch

thats why i'm not sure on what to do now?:confused:
 

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You can't get it to idle lower? Meaning turning the idle screws don't do anything or it won't idle any lower (stalls)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
correct:D from where i can get it to idle the idle screw doesn't do anything.:( :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well i ordered some smaller piolet jets today so they should be in near friday. i'll see what this does. any other suggestions? do you think this could be caused by a air leak some where?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well the cable is what i have been using. when i raise the cable i can back off with the idle screw. but the problem is is that i lower the cable then i need to screw the idle screw in all the way. this may sound very confusing but i was running the sled with stock carb, stock jets, stock settings, and the bogging was out of control. i just don't know why a snowmobile would come stock sooo rich? thats why i have been playing with the cable and idle. but that doesn't seem to work. any other suggestion?
 

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You shouldn't have to turn the idle screws all the way in. There is obviously too much low end fuel. Put the new pilots in and let me know what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
well i received the new jets today:D stock i have a 22.5, since then i have been trying to make the 20 work, so just a few minutes ago i put the 15 in and i was able to have the idle screw out alittle more than usual but still seemed like way to much fuel, so tried the 12.5 and was able to get it to idle alittle better so i turned the air screw out like half a turn and it does idle and not at 6,000 any more, but i still think it idles alittle too high. i could be wrong.

but i still have the problem with the bogging, the sled now idles better but the trottle response isn't there, only once you get the rpm's up then its like my 125 but if the rpm's arn't up there it still boggs off the bottom. i was thinking i could go to the 10 piolet but i already have the air screw almost all the way in, and thought that if i put the 10 in even with the air screw in all the way it would still be too lean.

to tell you the truth it is really hard too tell small differences with the motor by going by how it sounds because this sled is sooo extremly loud, there is no way you would be able to tell if it was detonating:eek: if any suggestion please suggest:D
 
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