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1998 Polaris Indy 500 Carb
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Discussion Starter #1
Been bored during this “quarantine” and beginning of summer and after watching one of PowerModz videos I saw his track was easy to spin while suspended. I go to my snowmobile and get the rear end completely off the ground but it barely budges. Bad idler wheel bearings? Bad track tension? Any input appreciated
 

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Both two things to look at. Also check track alignment and if your hyfax is sticking to the track clips.

Loosen the track adjusters, that should give you a chance to spin the bogey wheels to see if they are bad or not. If the bearings are shot, you can replace just the bearing, which isn't too expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What do you mean by hyfax sticking to the track clips? I know what they are but confused on what you mean by “sticking”. Should I look on MFG Supply and/or DennisKirk to find bearings?
 

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You can but they charge more.
Try Google and EBay
The plastic Hyfax if they get Hot will melt to the clips.

Try running the sled on a stand and then try rotating it.
Running it will warm the rubber making it easier to turn.
Remember you only want the track as tight as it needs to be as Not to ratchet.
I run extrovert drivers on my Big Cats so I can leave the track even looser.
 

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1998 Polaris Indy 500 Carb
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Discussion Starter #5
You can but they charge more.
Try Google and EBay
The plastic Hyfax if they get Hot will melt to the clips.

Try running the sled on a stand and then try rotating it.
Running it will warm the rubber making it easier to turn.
Remember you only want the track as tight as it needs to be as Not to ratchet.
I run extrovert drivers on my Big Cats so I can leave the track even looser.
If I am to just get bearings how hard is it going to be to get those bearings in/out?
 

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If I am to just get bearings how hard is it going to be to get those bearings in/out?
They are not that hard. There is a "C" clip that you take out that holds the bearing in the wheel. Turn it over and take a socket that fits the hole. Tap out the old bearing. Flip the wheel over, clean out any crud that may be behind where the bearing sat. Use a larger socket that fits the outside diameter of the bearing. Tap in the new one and replace the C clip.
 

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Sometimes the snap ring can be a pain. a GOOD pair of snap ring plyers works wonders. After the snap ring is removed, I put the wheel on a couple of pieces of 2x4 with the snap ring side down and take a socket and tap the bearing out with a hammer. They aren't in there very tight.

If the bearing seems ok, you can remove the plastic shields from both sides and clean the old grease out and repack. But like KC said, you can find the bearings online (I use vxb.com and buy them 8 or 10 at a time). Buying 10 at a time gets you a price of less than $4 per bearing, so if the old bearings are rough at all, toss 'em and put in a new one.

If your track clips are worn and/or rusted, they will greatly contribute to friction against the hyfax material on the rails. And again, like KC said, sometimes the track clips can get hot enough to melt into the hyfax. Smooth hyfax and track clips means less friction and less rolling resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Spun the track under power and now I can move the track (with resistance). I looked at my steering because I have a tiny bit of slop there. I found the slop was right where the tie rod coming from the steering column met the rod that goes out to the skis. Is there a rebuild kit for the steering that anyone knows of? Sorry for all the questions guys.
P.S. I am going to get some bearings for my idlers just to be safe.
 

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I just changed those bushings, it did not take out my slop, that still wiggles a bit. I found radius arm bushings were my only problem. Good luck.
 

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The drag link will come off from both ends.
The tie rod ends will then come off of it.
Measure before you remove them to get it back where it needs to be.
 
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