93 ext 580 I was having spark problems with the old cdi box if i tapped the box on the side i would get spark . i put in a new used cdi box now i dont get any spark what else could be the problem. the parts guy told me that the cdi box he sold me does work. he said he knows this because it was his tester box any help would be great i dont know what to look at next
spark problems
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well for starters, if you put the OLD CDI box do you get a spark?
secondly, i know that if you a spark and then it goes out after the engine if warmed up and cloe to be, it CAN be a coil.. since coils are copper wire wrapped around in varnish( kind of varnish that do let eletricity go by, it has a good isolation) and when some coils go bad, they get grounded when as they get warm/hot and stop working.
first try your old CDI and check the wires/connectors from your CDI to your coils if you get spark and as it warms up you lose it it CAN be a coil...
Fr0sT
secondly, i know that if you a spark and then it goes out after the engine if warmed up and cloe to be, it CAN be a coil.. since coils are copper wire wrapped around in varnish( kind of varnish that do let eletricity go by, it has a good isolation) and when some coils go bad, they get grounded when as they get warm/hot and stop working.
first try your old CDI and check the wires/connectors from your CDI to your coils if you get spark and as it warms up you lose it it CAN be a coil...
Fr0sT
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768 Posts
doesn' sound like a CDI box problem to me.. check your wires from the box to the coils and to the ignition key..maybe the ignition key can be faulty.. hey you never know..
test out the continuity on the ignition and from the ignition to the CDI and so on..
if you can get coils to test it, do it.. but it sounds like a wire problem to me.. you just switched the cdi box and lost everything...
other thing.. take a volt meter again and test out the input TO the CDI from the stator...while cranking it of course.. i had a similar problem on a ATV..you'll need the wiring diagram to do this one..cause there is gonna be some voltage to the CDI for sur.. well there should be in order for ti to work.
fr0st
test out the continuity on the ignition and from the ignition to the CDI and so on..
if you can get coils to test it, do it.. but it sounds like a wire problem to me.. you just switched the cdi box and lost everything...
other thing.. take a volt meter again and test out the input TO the CDI from the stator...while cranking it of course.. i had a similar problem on a ATV..you'll need the wiring diagram to do this one..cause there is gonna be some voltage to the CDI for sur.. well there should be in order for ti to work.
fr0st
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768 Posts
hi,
ok, for starters, changing parts is not the problem for you.. sometimes it takes that but somethimes no.. this is one of the /$%$/? times you need to find the problem
firrt thing, is there any power comin from the generator/alternator ? when you crank it, by corde, assuming you have no electric starter, does your light come on momentarily.it should.
secondly,well i dont know about your CDI box but there should be atlest 5 wires
2 from the alternator/generator..if A/C power comes from it the box should rectify it ( convert it) to D/C power.. same as a battery voltage, with a positive and a negative. i dontknow how much knowledge you have about electricity so im gonna try to be as explicit as i can.
ok so we get 2 wires from the alternator to the cdi
2 from the CDI to the coils.. and out of the coils to the chassis ( grounded
1 from the CDI to the chassis
and 1 or 2 to the ignition..this is the signal for the box to know that when you crank it it doesn't start without a key.. otherwise what would be the point
your gonna need a wiring diagram of the seld for this.
now you need to test / find the wires between the alternator to the CDI box..this is very neded otherwise if theres no power to the CDI = no spark
i don't know about you buy there should be a plug or something in order to change the CDI right? well its from there you should do your testing with a volt meter.
next ,if you have power to the CDI test out where the coils(dunno if ya got one or two) have 2 wires..i ya test for contuinity ( beeping when you touch both red and black wires of the voltmeter) there should be one of those wires that go from the coil to the ground and the other to the CDI. coils work the following way: you put 12 volts in them and nothing happens. if you stop putting 12 volts in them, you get a spark in the cylinder.
so when you crank it you should see something.. not necesarily 12 volts but something.
if you get voltage there and you are positive that the coils are well grounded to the chassis by the metallic part on them and by the wire that goes to the chassis as well..
next you could check if you have 12 volt by testing what come out or in the resistor for the hand warmers while you crank it..
check out if you got voltage coming in to the ignition and going back to the CDI.
oh and test out every wire from the CDI to the ignition if it has a ground..if it's in contact with the chassis it surely wont ive you spark coze the CDI will think it's in OFF postion
do the same for the wires from the CDI to the coils and check out if you have something that came in contact with the wires.. those old sleds can have something rubbing on the wire abnd make contact witht eh chassis wich is dreadful to find
Fr0sT
ok, for starters, changing parts is not the problem for you.. sometimes it takes that but somethimes no.. this is one of the /$%$/? times you need to find the problem
firrt thing, is there any power comin from the generator/alternator ? when you crank it, by corde, assuming you have no electric starter, does your light come on momentarily.it should.
secondly,well i dont know about your CDI box but there should be atlest 5 wires
2 from the alternator/generator..if A/C power comes from it the box should rectify it ( convert it) to D/C power.. same as a battery voltage, with a positive and a negative. i dontknow how much knowledge you have about electricity so im gonna try to be as explicit as i can.
ok so we get 2 wires from the alternator to the cdi
2 from the CDI to the coils.. and out of the coils to the chassis ( grounded
1 from the CDI to the chassis
and 1 or 2 to the ignition..this is the signal for the box to know that when you crank it it doesn't start without a key.. otherwise what would be the point
your gonna need a wiring diagram of the seld for this.
now you need to test / find the wires between the alternator to the CDI box..this is very neded otherwise if theres no power to the CDI = no spark
i don't know about you buy there should be a plug or something in order to change the CDI right? well its from there you should do your testing with a volt meter.
next ,if you have power to the CDI test out where the coils(dunno if ya got one or two) have 2 wires..i ya test for contuinity ( beeping when you touch both red and black wires of the voltmeter) there should be one of those wires that go from the coil to the ground and the other to the CDI. coils work the following way: you put 12 volts in them and nothing happens. if you stop putting 12 volts in them, you get a spark in the cylinder.
so when you crank it you should see something.. not necesarily 12 volts but something.
if you get voltage there and you are positive that the coils are well grounded to the chassis by the metallic part on them and by the wire that goes to the chassis as well..
next you could check if you have 12 volt by testing what come out or in the resistor for the hand warmers while you crank it..
check out if you got voltage coming in to the ignition and going back to the CDI.
oh and test out every wire from the CDI to the ignition if it has a ground..if it's in contact with the chassis it surely wont ive you spark coze the CDI will think it's in OFF postion
do the same for the wires from the CDI to the coils and check out if you have something that came in contact with the wires.. those old sleds can have something rubbing on the wire abnd make contact witht eh chassis wich is dreadful to find
Fr0sT
Joined
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768 Posts
north,
don't forget to unplug both ends of the wires you test coze i "think" that is you test wires on the coils and let the ground side ( wire from the coil to the chassis) there you will get a continuity reading...you just want to isolate the wire you test to make sure they dont touch anything or get in contact witht he chassis in any way if there not supposed to
fr0st
don't forget to unplug both ends of the wires you test coze i "think" that is you test wires on the coils and let the ground side ( wire from the coil to the chassis) there you will get a continuity reading...you just want to isolate the wire you test to make sure they dont touch anything or get in contact witht he chassis in any way if there not supposed to
fr0st
fr0st I talked to a retired arctic cat mechanic he told me to unhook the wire harness from the sled an jump the black and brown wire i did that now she runs but i dont have lights or any thing else electric. so i have a bad wire some place where do you think i should look first ?
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768 Posts
well i don't know where goes those brown and black wire to start with, since ever compagny of every year use diffrent wires.. but black should be a ground to my knowledge..follow where do those wire go (both tips of the wires i mean ..like from where to where) and see if there cut somewhere...do those wire go to the ignition or something like that ?
Fr0sT
Fr0sT
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768 Posts
you need to get a wiring diagram of the sled in order to know exactly whats the use of those wires coze i dont know why ifd you short out a brown and a black wire together you bypass everything and you got spark..it's not obvious when you don't see it in front of you ))
if you do get a wiring diagram of the sled and u have a scanner maybe i can help you more. but from here thats all i can do
Fr0sT
))if you do get a wiring diagram of the sled and u have a scanner maybe i can help you more. but from here thats all i can do
Fr0sT
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