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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2004 Polaris 700 Classic, 2005 Polaris 600 Classic. Both M-10 Suspension, 600 is studded, 700 is not.

My Wife and I have owned these sleds since Spring of 2011, lots of miles lots of smiles…we average approximately 850 miles per year (would be more if she had her way…), mainly in the Upper Peninsula, and Northern Lower Peninsula of Michigan. We were planning on riding them again this season, so all preseason maintenance is done, down to being full of Amsoil, and new spare plugs in the tool box. You will just need to top off the fuel tanks and go. Trailer is ready also, just come hook up.

I came across a pair of low miled 2015 600 Adventures out of Iowa that were snow-checked in 2014, set up just the way we wanted them, and ended up buying them this last summer, so our “old reliables” need to go. Selling as a package deal, both sleds and the trailer, which is how we bought them.

This is truly a turn-key deal, they are ready to rock and roll for the 2019-2020 season.

My post season maintenance program consists of: (Some call me ANAL, I prefer DETAIL ORIENTED.)

Wash, wax, drain fuel, top off injector oil tank with Amsoil INTERCEPTOR Oil. They are stored over Summer in a climate-controlled shop with 2 gallons in each sled 100/1 premixed fuel and seafoam in the tank. I then get them warmed up on the premix and fog into the carbs with Amsoil Fogging Spray until they stall. After they are cooled out, I spray fogging oil into the cylinders and pull them over a few times. Pull the power valves and clean carbon off of the guillotines. Paint the exhaust if needed, usually every other year. Send carbs and clutches to Flannery’s for cleaning, adjustment if needed or every other year or so depending on how many miles we put on them. Overkill, but I replace the spark plugs every year also.

Grease Chassis, Driveshaft and Jackshaft bearings behind driven clutch, and under the hood fittings with Amsoil Synthetic Water Resistant NLGI #2 grease.

Spray Fluid Film on all the ball joints and front and rear (non greaseable) linkages. Inspect and re-torque the track studs, check track tension with tension tool. I Drain and replace Chain case Fluid with Amsoil fluid every year regardless of miles, and re-tension the chain.
Both sleds have a battery tender quick connect installed, new batteries in Fall of 2016 and they sit with the maintainer on them all summer.

Both Sleds get this treatment every Spring when we are done riding. Then in the Fall, all I have to do is grease and go!

All accessories (Heated Grips, PERC Reverse, etc.) are working properly. My motto has always been if it’s broke fix it, I hate trailside breakdowns especially when it’s just Robin and I miles from anywhere at night in the UP.

I have a good amount of parts, etc. that I have accumulated over the past 8 years, including the old studded track off the 700, and a new spare windshield for the 600 that come with this package. Also have a Polaris Factory Shop Manual that comes with.

700 Specs (My ride)

9040 Miles-Compression 140 PSI Cold (both Cylinders) 120 PSI Hot (both Cylinders)

Summer 2018 I decided I was taking this sled to 15,000 miles…I showed it a LOT of love.

One of the track studs had pulled through, so I replaced the track with a New 1.25” Ripsaw II. While I had the skid out I decided to have the shocks rebuilt/recharged. While I was waiting on that, I decided to replace all the wheels/tires/bearings, and the torque strap and while those were off, I repainted the skid. Decided it would never be easier to do, so I replaced the slides with new ones before I put it back together.

Installed new WOODY’S DOOLEYS skags on the Skis.

The starter Bendix was squealing, so I replaced the Bendix with new Polaris assembly. Also replaced the Driveshaft bearing and put a new speedometer drive key in the end of the shaft.

Did not need them but decided to install MOTO TASSANARI V-Force III reeds. Has sharper throttle response now and with the new track you need to have a firm grip on the handlebars when you pin it! (Old Reeds come with. They are fine)

Also, years ago I had Doug Flannery tweak both clutches for faster upshift and downshift, lost a little top end, but the performance is just how I like it.

Aftermarket goodies this sled has: Windshield Bag, Two Inch Handlebar Riser, removeable saddle bags, handlebar gauntlets for toasty fingers, and a HOLESHOT Belly Guard.

Part of the reason I decided to put so much $$ into this sled last year was that in 2014 @ 4100 miles the PTO side Crank Bearing cage came apart sending shrapnel through the whole motor. New Crank, Pistons, Rings, Crank Bearings, Rod Bearings, Crank Seals, and had the jugs plated. So the motor was basically new at that point. In 2016 at 6574 miles the recoil pull rope broke, while I had that apart, I replaced the water pump belt.
Back when we first got these machines, I replaced the fuel pickups and lines inside the tanks.

600 Specs (Wife’s ride)

8707 Miles- Compression 130 PSI Cold (both Cylinders) 110 PSI Hot (both Cylinders)

This sled has been very dependable and has not given us any real issues. The biggest thing that ever happened on this one was back in 2014 the drive chain broke, wrapped around the bottom sprocket and punched a hole in the chain case. Replaced with new chain and case, while I was in there, I replaced all the seals as well. I studded both these sleds at the same time, “96 up the middle”, and all the studs are still in place on the 600. After being used to studs, I would probably stud the new track on the 700 to help with stopping, but I only put 833 miles on the new track last year and was going to ride it again this year to decide. Mainly for safety, (stopping) purposes.

Aftermarket goodies: Windshield bag, HOLESHOT Belly Guard, WOODYS DOOLEYS (new last season) and WOODYS STUDS. I also replaced the slides on this one before last season and replaced the starter Bendix like I did the 700.

2006 Triton LT10-101WB (10 Ft.) with 2KF 4X4 Coverall Specifications:

5/8 treated marine grade plywood
Safety chains, Tongue jack with swivel wheel
Fully welded all aluminum alloy frame
(2) TRITON Ski tiedown bars (steel vinyl dipped)
Quickslide channel with TRITON handle for tiedowns (to adjust tie down locations or add accessories)
Wishbone tongue design, tilt bed with tilt assist lift kit (springs)
Two Master long shackle padlocks keyed alike.
Spare tire New-Never Used.
Spare hub with new greased bearings and seal, spare full set of greased bearings and seals, spare caps.
(4) Ski Guides full length of trailer installed with stainless steel fasteners.
(2) Track Mat installed with stainless steel fasteners.
(4) CALIBER Edge Glides (these fold down to facilitate ski transition from ground to ski guides.)
Coverall Specifications (Dark Grey):
Aluminum diamond plate kick panel / stone guard on front edge
All welded aluminum frame
Stainless steel latching pins with lanyards
54” interior height with tapered side panels for better visibility and aerodynamics with dual air vents
Front access door with lock (48 x 48). Allows the user to easily enter the trailer from the front.
Stop / Tail / Turn light kit installed in the Coverall to make the trailer more visible at night.
Factory Interior dome light replaced with (TWO) LED lights one in front, one in back, lights up nice inside
Front door T-Handle cover (keeps salt spray out of the lock)

This trailer has been very well cared for…always shedded when possible, wheel bearings repacked every year, replaced every other year, tires are in good shape, ready for this season 6 Ply, load range C, fluid film on the axle. I am especially fussy about tires, bearings as I never wanted to be dealing with problems on the side of the road in the conditions this trailer operated in! Shedded in SW Lower Michigan, “staged” in Northern Lower Peninsula and three to four trips to western Upper Peninsula each year.

First $7000.00 gets it all. LOTS more pictures available, let me know what you want to see!

Thanks for looking,



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