So I removed my secondary on the weekend to inspect and to replace the buttons. Spring looks good, no real wear on the helix, just popped in the new buttons, clean up and a bit of grease and reassemble.
When it comes to preloading the spring, I gather that you want to hold the moveable sheave 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn counterclockwise (looking at the clutch from the backside) under spring tension so that the ramps on the helix just clear the buttons, apply some pressure to the helix to ensure it stays there while reinstalling the clip, and then it should only have movement in that counterclockwise direction, which adds more spring tension meant to provide resistance on the belt when under load? The tension can't get any lower because the buttons prevent the helix from spinning back clockwise (again, from the back side of the secondary).
If you don't clear the ramps past those buttons, the spring won't have that desired tension initially and the sheave will be far too easy to separate - belt slides right to the bottom quickly and you'll either burn out the belt or just not be able to go past a certain speed after maxing out the secondary's capability. You'll also likely be pushing the engine too hard trying to go any faster. I've heard it's practically impossible to "over-preload" the clutch by hand?
Am I on the right track here or missing any info? It's one thing to follow instructions, but I always like to ask "Why?". If you understand the why, instructions make more sense and are easier to repeat in the future!
When it comes to preloading the spring, I gather that you want to hold the moveable sheave 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn counterclockwise (looking at the clutch from the backside) under spring tension so that the ramps on the helix just clear the buttons, apply some pressure to the helix to ensure it stays there while reinstalling the clip, and then it should only have movement in that counterclockwise direction, which adds more spring tension meant to provide resistance on the belt when under load? The tension can't get any lower because the buttons prevent the helix from spinning back clockwise (again, from the back side of the secondary).
If you don't clear the ramps past those buttons, the spring won't have that desired tension initially and the sheave will be far too easy to separate - belt slides right to the bottom quickly and you'll either burn out the belt or just not be able to go past a certain speed after maxing out the secondary's capability. You'll also likely be pushing the engine too hard trying to go any faster. I've heard it's practically impossible to "over-preload" the clutch by hand?
Am I on the right track here or missing any info? It's one thing to follow instructions, but I always like to ask "Why?". If you understand the why, instructions make more sense and are easier to repeat in the future!