What sled? Which clutch? Adjustments such as tightening the spring pre-load will increase RPM on a Polaris clutch by about 100-200 rpm. Steeper or shallower helix angles will change the way the upshift/backshift occur. You can upshift faster ONLY if your engine can pull hard enough to get you going faster.
Top speed is pretty much a function of available horsepower. If you don't have enough HP to go 100 mph, no adjustments to any part of the sled will make it go that fast.
That said, clutching/gearing is a compromise. Unless you have MEGA hp, (Turbo, Nitrous, Big Bore) it's hard to have a sled that will give you both good acceleration and high top speeds. You can set up a sled to give you an awesome hole shot, but it will sacrifice top end speed. Same goes the other way; a sled can be set to run out at high speeds, but will be pretty slow getting there.
If you have specific questions, post what you are using now, and what you want the sled to do, someone will have an idea to get you to where you want to be.
That adjustment is for adjusting the secondary sheave to set belt deflection as the belt wears. Belt deflection should be about 1" to 1 1/4". The smaller the number, the closer together the sheaves are and the higher the belt will ride in the secondary. If you install a new belt, you may want to put it on 5, (or any number that will give you the 1" to 1 1/4" belt deflection) then as the belt wears, 4, then on down to 1. Do not rotate past 1.
Easiest way to adjust the adjuster is to pull the belt into the secondary a bit to take the stress off the adjuster bolts . Loosen the three bolts. Turn the cam clockwise to reduce the distance between sheaves, clockwise to increase the distance. Retighten the bolts.
There should be about 1/8" of the belt riding out of the secondary if the belt is adjusted properly.
The old style P-85 secondary clutches did not have the adjuster feature on the outside. To adjust those, you have to disassemble the secondary and then add or remove shims between the clutch sheaves to get proper deflection. The newer clutches are sure a lot nicer to work on!
I have a 1995 indy 500 as well and it wont go it will rev and ingauge clutch for about 5-6 seconds then at half-full throttle the rev immedlty drops any onwe w/ the same issue???
also it wont go up any small slopes/hills hope i didn't mess it up seeing if it would still run on grass...
My friends sled was bogging really bad and would clunk from the left side of the motor near the clutch. (He’s not very mechanically inclined) I looked at it and the belt was really loose and was hitting the clutch cover/ guard and the little deflector thingy in the belly pan. Changed the secondary tension thingy to 1 and looks much better. Still probably could use a new set of springs but we can’t test it until he gets his new parts for the skid. Hopefully this will fix the problem.
So I'm only a couple years into this '01 800 and it no longer starts. Trying to pull start is impossible. The cord can be pulled full but at an inch a sec. TOUGH! Spark plugs out, no problem it rolls easy. Is this a flooded engine or worse!?
So I have a 2000s rmk engine in a older wedge. It is a 600, I have 700 carbs, jugs, reeds, head, an pistons. Could I swap out the top end? If so what would I have to do to the jetting? Any knowledge is appreciated!
Hi, I have an 88 Polaris Indy 488 fan that runs at idle but won’t rev at all. Seems like it is getting too much fuel. It’ll start first pull and idle all day but it is very smoky and when you try to rev it up it will big down and eventually stall. It looks like it has good spark but plugs are...