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Discussion Starter #1
I'm working on maintenance for my new to me XLT - next step is replacing all of the wheel bearings and going to replace the driveshaft and jackshaft bearings while I've got the skid out anyway.

My sled has reverse. Do I need to disconnect anything besides the reverse before before removing the chaincase cover to get at the bearings?

Obviously there are additional gears inside the chaincase compared to my previous sleds that didn't have reverse, but assuming it's the same process as any other- remove bolts, bearing housings on clutch side, spacers and gears from shafts, set aside, replace bearings, reverse order for reinstall.
 

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Yep just make sure you replace all the bearings and seals. Most of the new bearings these days are sealed unlike the ones you will pull out which I prefer over the other ones they came with. Make sure you replace the bearing as well on the clutch side those go bad and need to be changed at the same time as the bearings/seals inside the chain case. Also use Synthetic chaincase fluid from Polaris, Klotz or AMSOIL.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Found this:
pretty good breakdown of the same case/gear setup.

I've got a bottle of Royal Purple Synchromax to put in it. I've seen good reviews about it

Got my skid out today and fully serviced (all bearings replaced, new slides and greased), next step will be the chain case and removing the drive shaft, but it'll be a job for another day.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got it all apart. Fairly straight forward except when I got in there I noticed my chain seemed to not have much slack even when the tensioner was backed off. Looked up the proper chain and it's 66 pin, 13 wide... There are only 64 pins on the chain I have, so I'm a link short. I haven't had the sled out on the snow yet so I don't know how it affects it but is this a critical replacement if I still have a small bit of slack when installed, as long as it stays under tension? Manual says 1/4"-3/8" deflection under tension for a case without reverse but I don't have that. Maybe different with reverse since the deflection point has a sprocket there?
65233
65234
 

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Someone put the wrong chain on there to get by. You should have the 66 pin chain on it. Take a look around eBay for the correct one. You need that correct tension on it for it to turn the track properly. Can tell by looking at the 1st picture it doesn't have enough tension on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The first picture had the tensioner backed off already too. Not much on eBay... Only OEM for more than other manufacturers brand new.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. It's the 13w I need. One of those in the search will work for me. Might try to sell the 64p chain if someone wants it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
does anyone know what the extra holes in the skid that I've circled in the attached photo are for? Different sled with an alternate setup or is there a different mounting point setup I could be running?
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Mine have them as well. I can not be certain but I thought those were suspension adjustment bolt holes but I wouldn't trust me on that. Check the service manual I posted. I left mine alone and only adjusted the suspension at the top rear mount. Most people just adjust the top rear adjustment and adjust the springs or shocks if the shocks can be adjusted.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah I have the manuals. No mention of different torque arm mounting arms...
 

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I would just leave it tbh. Maybe someone else knows what those are for. Maybe extra wheels if you wanted, but they look to be too close to the arms. That is one thing I honestly have never really looked at on any Polaris sled I have owned other then a quick glance here or there.
 

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They are just extra holes. I've never heard of anyone using them ever. And I've been around sleds since 82'

Steve
 

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Those on the rear torque arm will soften suspension as you move it forward from existing position. As the rear arm becomes more flexed it gets softer. As Cool mentioned, I too have always left those factory positions alone.
 

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I thought that is what they were for Steep. I just have never messed with them, not even when I worked at the dealership. We always adjusted via the rear top mounting by changing that or by adjusting the rear shock if it had the adjustable fox shock with that external can adjuster that mounted to the rails. I wish I could find 2 or 3 of those and add them to my Fox Shocks but when I do find them they cost an a couple arms & legs. People who have them hold on to them and for good reason. Unless you have seen any steep on the cheap?
 

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Basically they look like this, this is for the Front Rear and is similar for the Rear Rear. 440 XCRs had them as did a couple others

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Got it all apart. Fairly straight forward except when I got in there I noticed my chain seemed to not have much slack even when the tensioner was backed off. Looked up the proper chain and it's 66 pin, 13 wide... There are only 64 pins on the chain I have, so I'm a link short. I haven't had the sled out on the snow yet so I don't know how it affects it but is this a critical replacement if I still have a small bit of slack when installed, as long as it stays under tension? Manual says 1/4"-3/8" deflection under tension for a case without reverse but I don't have that. Maybe different with reverse since the deflection point has a sprocket there? View attachment 65233 View attachment 65234
that type of reverse it was pretty common to skip/grind if out of adjustment, i wonder if someone didnt cram that one on to stop it from skipping/grinding in reverse?
 
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