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1995 Polaris XLT Touring
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all!

Time to get back wrenching to try and get my sled actually running for this winter...

When I tucked the XLT away for the summer I had the engine torn down to the crank and couldn't get the flywheel off. Still won't budge so trying to get in into a shop to both get that apart and also to inspect the crank & bearings. I've got the front mount bolts off but both of the rear ones are stripped. The bolts don't budge at all and the nuts just spin on the bolts.

I'm guessing someone over tightened at one point and stripped the threads on the bolts and nuts.

Two questions:

1st: any recommendations on how to remove at this point? Cut them off and put in new?

2nd: can I do this somehow without removing the track to hold the nut tight in the tunnel/bulkhead?

Maybe this is the time to remove the track and replace the drive bearings as well just to make it all easier and get that maintenance out of the way too?
 

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rear motor mount has a threaded stud that screws into bulkhead. Some had the nut attached to bulkhead and some were held in place by front heat exchanger in tunnel. I have used large pair of channel locks to turn mount out of bulkhead,
 

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1995 Polaris XLT Touring
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554 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If I had a Polaris recoil cup I would make you a flywheel puller plate
I think you had mentioned that in one of my past posts - you cut a plate and threaded holes to line up with the cup, plate presses against the crank, thread in the bolts evenly and tap as needed...

I've broken both a Kimpex puller and a heavy duty harmonic balancer puller trying to get the flywheel off. Snapped grade 8 bolts also in trying on both... I believe I need heat that I don't have.
 

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NO
it is simply a 4"square of 3/9 plate with the 3 holes of the recoil cup!
Put the 3 longer bolts in as well as just the nut on the shaft
Then tighten each bolt 1/6 turn at a time once it is a tight as you can get it
Tap on the flat plate and it pops!
 
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