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1995 Polaris XLT Touring
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all!

Time to get back wrenching to try and get my sled actually running for this winter...

When I tucked the XLT away for the summer I had the engine torn down to the crank and couldn't get the flywheel off. Still won't budge so trying to get in into a shop to both get that apart and also to inspect the crank & bearings. I've got the front mount bolts off but both of the rear ones are stripped. The bolts don't budge at all and the nuts just spin on the bolts.

I'm guessing someone over tightened at one point and stripped the threads on the bolts and nuts.

Two questions:

1st: any recommendations on how to remove at this point? Cut them off and put in new?

2nd: can I do this somehow without removing the track to hold the nut tight in the tunnel/bulkhead?

Maybe this is the time to remove the track and replace the drive bearings as well just to make it all easier and get that maintenance out of the way too?
 

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rear motor mount has a threaded stud that screws into bulkhead. Some had the nut attached to bulkhead and some were held in place by front heat exchanger in tunnel. I have used large pair of channel locks to turn mount out of bulkhead,
 

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1995 Polaris XLT Touring
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If I had a Polaris recoil cup I would make you a flywheel puller plate
I think you had mentioned that in one of my past posts - you cut a plate and threaded holes to line up with the cup, plate presses against the crank, thread in the bolts evenly and tap as needed...

I've broken both a Kimpex puller and a heavy duty harmonic balancer puller trying to get the flywheel off. Snapped grade 8 bolts also in trying on both... I believe I need heat that I don't have.
 

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NO
it is simply a 4"square of 3/9 plate with the 3 holes of the recoil cup!
Put the 3 longer bolts in as well as just the nut on the shaft
Then tighten each bolt 1/6 turn at a time once it is a tight as you can get it
Tap on the flat plate and it pops!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
NO
it is simply a 4"square of 3/9 plate with the 3 holes of the recoil cup!
Put the 3 longer bolts in as well as just the nut on the shaft
Then tighten each bolt 1/6 turn at a time once it is a tight as you can get it
Tap on the flat plate and it pops!
What's the type of steel you use? I have a drill press, so if I could get a proper sized square I could get it done with some Grade 8 + bolts. I'm sure I could go chat with a local metal shop.
 

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I have a metal bucket with just shim plates (4" square used to shim Big I beams!)
But anything even a round cut out of 3/8 plate will work
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool I'll see if any of the metal fabs around here have something kicking around, make sure I've got a drill bit strong enough to cut through it, and get a few bolts that hopefully won't snap like the others have...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Dress shirt Textile Sleeve Beige Wood


Shop had a chunk of scrap 3/8" about 4"x 10"... I told them to not bother cutting it down so once it's attached I can brace it against the chassis so it won't spin... It'd be easier if the whole top end wasn't apart and clutch removed. Got some bolts and picked up a carbon bit for the press and I've got plenty of oil for making holes so hopefully this might finally get the thing off!

Update: holes. Haven't tackled the procedure yet. I'm expecting the bolts to shear so I may need to find better ones tomorrow ..
Drill presses Automotive tire Liquid Milling Drilling
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Wood Bumper Electrical wiring
 

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Well you wont have to worry about the crank turning LOL
So tighten and tap
But put the nut back on shaft to protect the threads and give more surface to pull against
 

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First what kind of torch do you have? Second can you get SAE Grad 12 bolts there in Canada Online someplace? You need to do a combination of tension like you have it while someone heats everything up and then smack that center bolt and hopefully it pops off. Or at this point what I would do is pull the damn engine and take it into a shop with a hydraulic press and have them do it. Costs have to be getting up there in bolts and what not.

Never seen this happen on a snowmobile flywheel something was done with the previous rebuild that screwed this all up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ohhhh I know. I'm taking one more shot at the grade 12 bolts but they are hard to come by. If anyone would have had them it would be fastenal. I might be and to find some automotive socket cap screws in the right thread and grade....

And yeah I'm already stuck preparing to cut off the rear engine mount bolts since those are stripped.... If I wasn't so stubborn I'd have her parted out by now!!
 

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lol I would buy as many of those as you can for future uses as well. 2 bucks for 2 of them isn't bad at all. You've got all this work into as it is I would call a few shops and ask what they charge even if you order those bolts. Makes me wonder what they did to that flywheel and if it is that bad will you have to replace it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
lol I would buy as many of those as you can for future uses as well. 2 bucks for 2 of them isn't bad at all. You've got all this work into as it is I would call a few shops and ask what they charge even if you order those bolts. Makes me wonder what they did to that flywheel and if it is that bad will you have to replace it?
Good thing I've got a spare if I can ever get this one off!!
 

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Well that is a good thing to have laying around! Seriously a shop can't charge that much too pull that flywheel. Especially since you have to cut those bolts you talked about. Probably take them 5 minutes to do it and would save you a lot of grief & cussing,lol.
 

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Kinda wondered if that was going to happen. Not worth trying to put in a helicoil. Best to just eat the cost and have the shop do it unfortunately. Plus at least now you got some good bolts for in the future and the steel that you can modify for other needs as well.
 
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