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Discussion Starter #1
Title basically says it all, happens when I try to wheelie or just accelerate really hard etc.. It's not overheating (at least going by the temperature gauge in the display).

This issue started when I tightened the belt a little bit because I could hear it slipping, I'm not sure whether or not that's just a coincidence or not but I thought I should at least mention it.

When I drove it straight on a decent trail so that the sled kept rolling for a bit after it initiated the shutdown I could see that I got a check engine warning as well. I haven't checked what the warning was for yet because as far as I understand the error codes are deleted when the snowmobile is shut off? Correct me if i'm wrong.

I should also add that the sled runs beautifully other than the fact it's shutting itself off. Pulls as it should in the lows and mids without weird noises or anything like that.

Either way I thought maybe anyone of you guys could help me out before contacting a mechanic, thanks in advance!
 

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If it started after you adjusted the belt, I would change it back to the way it was and see if that will help. I would also clean the clutches, especially the faces of the primary to remove any belt residue. I use Simple Green and a green Scotch-Brite pad. Rinse competely! And take the scrubber to the sides of the belt, as well. Rinse and make sure the belt is dry before putting it back on.


You may have to have a dealer put the "Digital Wrench" on the sled to read the codes. I would assume that any codes would be stored, but that may not be a valid assumption! If you have a good relationship with the dealer, they may read the codes for you for free or for little cost. I would call and find out before heading there.
 

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When it shuts off, does it just stop altogether? Sudden Dead stop or a pudda puddda pudda pudda puddda stop? What happens if it sounds like it is going to quite and you back off to about half throttle? Does it catch and stay running and pickup performance or does it quit anyway?

A) One scenario is it is cold seizing

B) Another scenario is it is reaching momentary high temperature which triggers the electronics to retard timing (staggering rpm) or even shutdown if spikes too high.


For A, ensure the entire power system is thoroughly warmed up before going hard to the bars.

For B, there may be an air pocket in the cooling system or some issue with coolant circulation. Look for hose kinks. Burp and bleed the cooling system. Water pump belt or pump impeller issue.

C) intermittent electrical fault. Wire shorts or bad connections, failing stator, scrambled cdi/pcm


When you mash the throttle and go hard on it, that spikes piston and head temperatures. So look for things that affect cooling and the built in system safety controls around that scenario which is protecting the engine from the operator, you.

What happens if you are more gradual in opening up to full throttle?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The sled basically stops itself, meaning no throttle response at all. While running a trail the sled remains on until it has stopped completely, then it engine stops. When I'm in the deep however, the engine stops pretty much straight away because of the friction I guess.. After the sled stops I can restart it fine and drive away without any problems at all except for when I reach too high of an RPM again where the sled shuts itself once more.

I can at least conclude it's definitely not A).
B) and C) are definitely some things I'll have to look into however but I doubt it's B) either cause this happens in deep powder snow and I've never had a problem with the cooling capacity of the sled.

If memory serves me right gradually going full throttle resulted in the same thing as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If it started after you adjusted the belt, I would change it back to the way it was and see if that will help.
This is what i'm going to attempt at first. I'm gonna adjust the clutch back to how it was before and just clean it/install a new belt to get rid of the slippage I was experiencing. Hopefully that'll lower top RPMs by a tiny bit and maybe fix my problems.
 

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Is the thought that perhaps it is over-revving, hitting an electronic limiter that triggers a shut down? Just how high is it revving?

On the temperature/cooling. What I am getting at there is a temperature spike, not a gradual rise or a sustained high temperature. Hence the question about what it does when you throttle up more gradually. The head temp will quickly rise, spike, in 5 seconds or so after you wack it and hold it. There may be a high temperature switch but with newer electronics it is absolutely possible there may be also be a "rate of rise" type control in the computer being triggered. Not only the high temperature but how fast the temperature is rising. This is especially possible if the temperature display is digital, meaning it is coming from the computer. A new belt will grip alot more and draw more power, working the engine harder. Hence the power / temperature spike may be alot quicker than the old one.

It would be interesting to review the manual for control schematics and troubleshooting chart to see what they've got built in electronically that you may be experiencing the results of.

Or it could be something else electric/electronic. Such as a bad throttle position sensor. A failing or failed voltage regulator or stator that is giving dirty power and scrambling the brains of the computer when high rpm (high voltage) or high temperature is being hit.


Just a few other ideas.

Hope that helps! And if you figure it out please let us know!

.
 

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Here is what I would say, so I tear apart engines and mess around with them, from what I have learned from that and others is that you have two jets in the carb that suck the gas out of a bowl and goes into the engine the first jet is your idler jet, aka small jet, for low RPM/startup. Next is your main jet, aka large jet, for high RPM. depending on how I took this question it sounds like your main jet is clogged so it is limiting your engine from pulling in for gas so you gas to air ratio is way off for what your engine is designed for.
 

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The RMK is also EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection.) Polaris pretty much quit using carbs about 2006 in the RMK. These EFI systems have as many sensors as a car does, and the electronics are all handled by a computer. If there are sensor issues, it throws codes just like a car will, but unlike a car, there's no OBDII plug to plug in a reader. Each manufacturer has their own proprietary reader. Polaris has theirs, it's called the "Digital Wrench".
 
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