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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1995 Polaris 580 triple touring sled and the starter works good and the brushes are about at 50% wear, but the gear is worn so that the starter kicks in and out. I ordered what I thought was the correct rebuild kit off Ebay but the gear was smaller and the shaft size was also too small. The place I ordered from gave me a refund but said they are unable to get the part (obsolete). I'm not sure I can even find the correct replacement starter even if I wanted to spend big bucks for one. Ideas?
 

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Polaris browse is your friend! Per Polaris browse the correct part number is a 3083189 for the entire starter assembly. Right now eBay shows several in stock with those part numbers with the lowest being 108 with free shipping & without a solenoid.



OR what you could do is find an old school alternator, starter rebuild business like the old days. There are still plenty of those still around.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a 1995 Polaris 580 triple touring sled and the starter works good and the brushes are about at 50% wear, but the gear is worn so that the starter kicks in and out. I ordered what I thought was the correct rebuild kit off Ebay but the gear was smaller and the shaft size was also too small. The place I ordered from gave me a refund but said they are unable to get the part (obsolete). I'm not sure I can even find the correct replacement starter even if I wanted to spend big bucks for one. Ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks a lot, the correct part number really helps! Looks like I can purchase a rebuilt one for about $120....I would rather just replace the drive gear, but I am unable to find the correct rebuild kit. But the starter is old and the brushes are about half gone so might be smart to just bite the bullet and replace it, and much less of a headache and labor.
 

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Go to you your local Electric Rebuilding place. Just about everything in the starter is cross-referenced. They can usually just match it up.
 

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Yep that is my suggestion as well. When I go back to Illinois whatever extra starters or alternators I have that need rebuilding (as I keep OEM stuff) I take them to one of my ex-friends family shop as I get a damn good deal. When I was burning through starters drag racing he would rebuild them for 25 bucks, can't beat that. Last alternator I had rebuilt he charged me 75 vs the 150 he charges for others.

Lots of those starters over the years from sleds are the same it is just a matter of matching them up correctly. And as Bear said a re-builder usually has all that stuff there or can get it in a day or 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I appreciate the help, especially the part number. I would have checked into getting it rebuilt but I am 100 miles away from the nearest major city so I went with a new one off ebay for $110 which I thought was a great deal.
 

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Looks like it was the one I posted as it is now 107. As long as it works that is what matters. I would keep your old one and take it to the rebuilder one day when you are near that town or call one there. If anything getting it rebuilt you will have a spare or can sell it on eBay to get your money back down the line if you sell the sled. A Lot of people will only use OEM for some odd reason. Personally I could care less as long as it works and works correctly then that is all I care about.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I installed the starter and it works fine and now (surprise-surprise) it has another problem. It was running fine when I parked it in the garage last year, but now when I started it it revs to 4k and won't idle down, rode it around for maybe 15 minutes, runs fine at full throttle, etc, but still wouldn't idle down. Tried adjusting the carb cables and no change. Then I went to start it and wouldn't fire even though it was still warm. Pulled the plugs and they were dry, choked it then it started, still idle high. How in the hell does sled acquire a new problem while sitting in a garage for 9 months? I about to go back to just riding old sleds, like the 86 Yamaha 340 that is easy to start, runs great, lightweight, easy to work on, good on gas, etc.
 

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Clean the carbs, they need to be done every preseason with the kind of gas we have these days. A XLT engine carbs are known to be finicky as it is. But when they are not cleaned every season after it sits they can become gummed up. Clean every passage and jet with a small piece of wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, I need to do that. Come to think about it I had this same problem with this sled before. The slides were not seating all the way because I had the idle screws in too far. Still doesn't explain how something can change when it has been sitting all this time. O' well, it gives me something to do.
 

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Often, a high idle is caused by a lean condition. When gas evaporates in the carb bowls, it leaves a varnish residue that can coat the small passages of the idle circuit and pilot jet. That effectively makes the pilot jet smaller (leaner) which can cause the high idle. If the idle goes down when you apply the choke lever, definitely suspect the idle circuit.
 
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