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Polaris Indy 500 overheating

6K views 37 replies 4 participants last post by  Coolhand 
#1 ·
Bought a 1998 Polaris Indy 500 this summer and finally got it on the trials this weekend. After about 3 miles of riding taking her easy I could tell it wasn’t giving me full power and was barely going 25 at 6500. And then a few second later the temp light turned on. I shut it off and let it cool and limped it back home. What was weird was when I got home the running boards where hot to the touch and was steaming. I was thinking the water pump but why would the running boards be so hot. Also seen something about the radiator cap not sure on how you know it’s bad. Any ideas of what the problem might be would be great
Thanks
 
#2 ·
Radiator cap on those are a easy fix as you can pick those up at any parts store for 5 bucks. Those should be replaced every few years as over time they can loose the ability to keep the right amount of pressure in a system. Make sure you get the same LB rating do NOT go bigger as putting too much pressure into a system can cause issues. Also there is a belt for the water pump as well behind the recoil. It maybe as simple as there is air in the system. Make sure that isn't gone if so then you need to replace it. Check the level and if it is low, try burping it and see what happens. I had that happen to my '97 Indy 500 a couple of years ago. My levels were low, do not go just buy the coolant overflow bottle That also should be filled to the max level line once the air is out. Underneath the running boards there are cooling radiators that coolant flows through. That is why they would be hot and steaming as there was no coolant running through them.
 
#3 ·
What kind of snow were you riding in? If it was really hardpack, it's possible that the radiators under the running boards were not getting pummeled by the snow from the track. That's pretty much how the engine is cooled; snow from the track hits the heat exchangers under the running boards, which cools the coolant as it travels through the exchanger.

When riding, the heat exchangers should be hot, which also has the benefit of helping melt any snow on the running boards. In fact, if you are having overheating problems, piling snow on top of the running boards can help cool the coolant.

I would do as coolhand suggests and check the coolant level as well as making sure the belt is ok. You can also add ice scratchers to the rails or even to the ski spindle to assist in having snow/ice hit the heat exchangers on those days when the trails are like concrete. You should also veer off the trail a bit once in a while on days like that to make sure you are getting snow to hit the exchangers. Stopping and rubbing ice balls on the exchangers will also bring down temps pretty quickly.

Welcome to the forum!
 
#4 · (Edited)
Thanks for
What kind of snow were you riding in? If it was really hardpack, it's possible that the radiators under the running boards were not getting pummeled by the snow from the track. That's pretty much how the engine is cooled; snow from the track hits the heat exchangers under the running boards, which cools the coolant as it travels through the exchanger.

When riding, the heat exchangers should be hot, which also has the benefit of helping melt any snow on the running boards. In fact, if you are having overheating problems, piling snow on top of the running boards can help cool the coolant.

I would do as coolhand suggests and check the coolant level as well as making sure the belt is ok. You can also add ice scratchers to the rails or even to the ski spindle to assist in having snow/ice hit the heat exchangers on those days when the trails are like concrete. You should also veer off the trail a bit once in a while on days like that to make sure you are getting snow to hit the exchangers. Stopping and rubbing ice balls on the exchangers will also bring down temps pretty quickly.

Welcome to the forum!
thanks for the recommendations and yes i was trail riding
 
#6 ·
No pull the cap and see if there is any coolant in it. Fill it up to just below the ridge of the fill tube or if you overfill when you put your cap back on it will spill out and over your engine. If that happens make sure you wipe it up right away or it will burn off and you will smell burnt coolant which isn't the greatest smell.

I still think that either there is not enough coolant in the system, or the belt/water pump isn't working as I have never had mine steaming like that even when the overheat illuminated on mine. It was overheating because there was not enough coolant in the entire system. Why? Because I had air in the system which can happen over time on those sleds. Replace the cap, fill it up will as much coolant as it will take, fill the reservoir up to the max line. Start it up and see what happens. Don't pull the cap right off but sometimes if you lift up the lever on it (fyi that should be a lever type pressure cap) and you hear a hiss...you have air in the system meaning you have to burp the system and get rid of the air.
 
#15 ·
You want Stant 10381, that is a 19-22lb cap. That is the perfect cap for yours. HOWEVER if you take that number to a local parts store you will get it for a dollar or two more and have it right then and there. Just make sure it says 19-21LB on it and you will be good. Last 2 I bought I bought at Fleet-Farm for 8 bucks total for 2 of them. I replace mine every 4-5 years. Make sure your water pump belt is ok as well as me and dan said. Make sure the levels are ok and that you don't need to burp a air pocket out of it. Fill it to the top, fill the reservoir to the max line and go from there.

Yes I understand that BUT you also said "other then that is is fine", putting that low of a LB cap on it would cause even more issues.

Go with the Stant 10381, that is exactly what you have now without paying 80 dollars at the stealership. Plus if you want it first thing tomorrow or heck even today...always hit up the auto zone or oreillys! :D
 
#17 ·
Sigh I know, just a bad day. I didn't mean to come across the way it probably did.

Either way at least he has the correct one he needs now. I just hope between the cap and filling it up and doing a burp on the system that is it. Luckily that is all it was for me last time.
 
#18 ·
Sigh I know, just a bad day. I didn't mean to come across the way it probably did.

Either way at least he has the correct one he needs now. I just hope between the cap and filling it up and doing a burp on the system that is it. Luckily that is all it was for me last time.
Thanks for all the help guys going to pick up the cap this week and burp out the system and see if I have time to take it for a ride. I will let yall know what I figure out
Thankss
 
#21 ·
SLP 40-66 primary spring which is 120-300lb rating, a polaris gold or black secondary spring (they are the same spring w/ same lb ratings, just different part numbers & color is all). And IF YOU CAN find one...and that is a big IF...Try to find a EPI Helix with the part number QA-2. It is a Quad Angle helix that does wonders on that sled, also I switched to slippery buttons because of longevity but I also used it with stock regular old cheap buttons and it worked fine. Don't bother with switching out weights, there isn't any advantage to that. That sled works best with the stock M5 weights. Call EPI to see if they have any left on the shelves, sometimes they find one laying around. I've been checking eBay for awhile now to find another one but no such luck there so EPI is your best bet. Also one thing I will say is I am not a fan of EPI's suggestion for the primary spring on the sled, I tried it but bleh, the 120-300 works better imho. They make a clutch kit for it with helix and their 2 springs suggestions but at 165 dollars you can do it cheaper and with better springs imho. I love EPI products but not for that engine and clutch combination.
 
#23 ·
Primary Spring SLP 40-66 which is 120-300lb rating or the same as the Polaris part# 7041080


Polaris Secondary Spring, replace the secondary spring buttons as well when you do


Polaris Secondary buttons


For the Helix you need to call EPI directly, don't email call them as it is easier. Ask for parts department. They won't tell you the angles as they are stupid crazy about hiding information. Do not let them sell you on buying their Purple secondary spring. I tried it and it is just too much for that sled.

 
#24 ·
Primary Spring SLP 40-66 which is 120-300lb rating or the same as the Polaris part# 7041080


Polaris Secondary Spring, replace the secondary spring buttons as well when you do


Polaris Secondary buttons


For the Helix you need to call EPI directly, don't email call them as it is easier. Ask for parts department. They won't tell you the angles as they are stupid crazy about hiding information. Do not let them sell you on buying their Purple secondary spring. I tried it and it is just too much for that sled.

And you have these on your Indy 500 also?
 
#25 ·
Yes I have them in my '98 Indy 440 L/C and my '97 Indy 500 as well. The red spring from factory in the secondary is junk, it is junk from factory. I worked at a dealer in the '90s and any sled that came with that red spring we would rip them out and put in the gold/black spring right away. However it is showing that your 1998 could have the Gold spring in the secondary. IF so then I would replace the buttons as those need to be replaced every 1500-2000 miles on those and try to find that Helix. That helix is a Quad Angle Helix that shifts through 4 angles vs the Single Angle Helix yours has now stock. It makes a world of a difference with shifting. Just remember your helix has holes in it to determine where that tabbed spring will go. The farther you go to the left the more low end torque you will have and less top end. The farther you go to the right the more top end you will have and less low end torque. Polaris made 3 types of helixes with for those sleds one with 3 holes, 4 holes and 5 holes. For the 3 hole and 5 hole the balanced setup is directly in the middle, for the 4 hole helix it is number 2 or 2nd one from the left. The QA-2 from EPI should come with 5 holes and I have mine set at number 2.

The primary spring in a '98 Indy 500 stock is a Gold which is 100-275lb rating. What you are doing is increasing the engagement up to 4000-4400 which is perfect for that sled. And it will increase your top end rpm's as well giving you a little bit more throughout your power band. Springs are also made to be replaced so often as well.

I tried the EPI springs they recommended and it was too much on the engagement and too much on the secondary spring lb ratings. I have tried about 20 different combinations to come to this setup. I am finally happy with it on the trails.

If you think it is too much then you go back, it takes 5 mins to switch out a primary spring.
 
#27 ·
Call EPI as that is probably your best bet. If you have called them you are probably out of luck. I would just keep trying eBay and what not now and then. EPI's website is below. The stock helix works good just not as good as that quad angle. I have used that spring combination with the stock helix and it ok. Changing out those springs alone will have a good effect on your sled even with a stock single angle helix. Someone in the past has said that Polaris had a tri-angle helix that would work as well but I have never been able to confirm it exists.

 
#30 ·
Ok, I have to ask how did a silver get in there? Because no that is not correct at all. If it is silver/gold that is a spring that you definitely don't want in there. Unless it is an aftermarket spring, then the only person who made or makes a silver is EPI and that is waaaaaaay overkill on that engine and clutch. What does it engage at right now? And what does it max out at right now at the very top of its rpm's?

You are never going to get more power out of a Indy 500. They key to them is how it shifts and back-shifts throughout the entire rpm range. By improving it you will get there quicker and you will be better out on the trail. Top end speed is not going to change.
 
#32 · (Edited)
yeah 4500 is too high, that is a EPI spring it sounds like which is 165-300LB rating. 165 is waaaaay too high for that sled. You want the engagement at 4000-4400. I just put in a new SLP 40-66 in mine yesterday as mine had 1500 miles on it between 3 sleds so I switched it out to a new one. I am going to fire it up tomorrow. I will let you know what the engagement is on it. Polaris Silver is 77-240LB rating.

Your top end should read around 90-100 on a flat ice service. Now you will not be going that fast as sled speedometers are not that accurate,lol. I wish that sled would do that but that is wishful dreaming.

And you say 50 as in 5,000 rpm's or 50mph? Because if that is the case yeah something is definitely off on that clutching. I can check but I am not 100% positive but I "might" have another gold spring laying around at my parents garage which is where the sleds are kept. I'll look tomorrow when I am there. If it is there then I can ship it to you for the cost of shipping.
 
#33 · (Edited)
yeah 4500 is too high, that is a EPI spring it sounds like which is 165-300LB rating. 165 is waaaaay too high for that sled. You want the LB rating at 4000-4400. I just put in a new SLP 40-66 in mine yesterday as mine had 1500 miles on it between 3 sleds so I switched it out to a new one. I am going to fire it up tomorrow. I will let you know what the engagement is on it. Polaris Silver is 77-240LB rating.

Your top end should read around 90-100 on a flat ice service. Now you will not be going that fast as sled speedometers are not that accurate,lol. I wish that sled would do that but that is wishful dreaming.

And you say 50 as in 5,000 rpm's or 50mph? Because if that is the case yeah something is definitely off on that clutching. I can check but I am not 100% positive but I "might" have another gold spring laying around at my parents garage which is where the sleds are kept. I'll look tomorrow when I am there. If it is there then I can ship it to you for the cost of shipping.
Ok thank you so much

acaully just cheacked jt is a gold?‍♂?‍♂?‍♂ Sorry it looked silver but I put a flashlight on it and saw that
 
#36 ·
Changing the primary and secondary springs with new buttons. But let me double check tomorrow what the SLP spring engages at just to be safe. I talked to my guy at Polaris today about a couple things and he said yeah that is the spring you go with if you want to go one up over the gold in the primary and that the gold/black with the 25-44LB rating is the best choice for those sleds.
 
#37 ·
Okay so finally got around to firing mine up today and it engages around 4200-4400 depending on how hard you hit the throttle which is perfect for that sled. I did find a gold secondary spring, I know it doesn't have many miles on it maybe 300 if that before I switched it out to a different EPI spring I was trying and then went back to gold again. The purple EPI spring works good but I like the gold better, some have better luck with that purple EPI in the secondary though I will say that.

So if you want to send me your name/address via private message I'll get this out on Monday and you can send me the shipping costs after it is sent as it shouldn't be too much as it is very small and lightweight.
 
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