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phazed
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Another question for you guys. I finally got a set of straight(ish) bars off eBay after receiving two sets of bars that were bent worse than the ones that came on my sled... but that's another story.

It looks like someone did some custom (hackjob) wiring to the bars that I got. I was wondering if anyone could tell me how the hand warmers are supposed to be wired up and then I can mimic that the best i can. Also what is the purpose of that little white box thing that is ziptied to the bars and how should that be wired in? Any help would be great.


Thanks
 

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5,737 Posts
depending on the grip manufacturer, that little white thingy is a resistor. it controls your high and low function.

typical grip wiring is a power source to the switch, power from the switch on the low setting to the resistor and to one wire of one grip, other wire from that grip to one wire on the other grip and the remaining wire back to a ground. high leg of the switch should go to the resistor.

some resistors require different needs as do certain hi/low switches.

that should get you started.
 

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phazed
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ahh it kind of makes sense as to why the previous owner had installed a second switch to control the grips. the stock switch was only on/off, second switch was three position. i still cant make the damn things work.

not to mention i cant even get my meter to read any voltage coming off the yellow/black wires coming out of the sled. also i noticed my tail light stopped working and im pretty positive it worked before. checked the bulb, its fine. also checked the brake lever switch and its good too. related problems? im not sure :(

thanks for all of that though, it makes more sense to me now.
 

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not sure, yamadad4 seems up on his yamys. maybe he can help. i'll check my venture manual and see if we can get any insight
 

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phazed
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
alright thanks. i was just looking through the manual and they are calling the lighting circuit AC.. wtf. sleds are strange.

ill mess with it more tomorrow.
 

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there wont be a factory installed fuse, some people toss an inline one in for protection. unplug both grips and test each for continuity. if one is bad, neither will work due to the way they are wired. i would have to pull the book for voltage specs, if they are even given. taillight issue is more than likely related. usually the lighting circuit is the easiest to tap for grips. hopefully the lighting coil didnt get cooked.
 

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phazed
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
what year?
it's an 88

there wont be a factory installed fuse, some people toss an inline one in for protection. unplug both grips and test each for continuity. if one is bad, neither will work due to the way they are wired. i would have to pull the book for voltage specs, if they are even given. taillight issue is more than likely related. usually the lighting circuit is the easiest to tap for grips. hopefully the lighting coil didnt get cooked.

ok so there probably isn't a fuse. there were factory installed heated grips i'm assuming, as the shroud has a stock switch for them. someone down the line added another switch inline with that switch.. its kind of a mess. then i just got bars off ebay that look like a 5 year old wired them.

if the lighting coil got cooked would the headlight still work? because that still works fine whenever the sled is running. tomorrow i will check each grip and the thumb for continuity and report back. thanks a bunch guys.

i'm not sure when the tailight issue started either, it worked when i first got it, but then we pulled the motor to replace the steering shaft, and im pretty sure it worked when we got it all back together but im not positive :(
 

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phazed
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i guess now im more worried about the tail light issue than the grips issue. we're gettnig dumped on with snow now too and im itching to ride :((((((((
 

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phazed
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i think i found the issue with the hand grips. i put the meter on both grips, and they both have continuity and similar resistance. put meter on the thumb warmer and its wide open, no continuity. also put my meter on ac and with the sled running i have 12 volts (ish) at the hand warmer lead wires. so now i just have to wire those up correctly.

still stumped on the tail light issue. going to pull the seat off and see what i can find.
 

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there are 2 connectors under the seat. one at the tank end that comes down from the bars from the brake. the other is at the tail end and simply used to attach the tailight.

i hve seen the conectors come undone or the wires rub through when the seat bottom plywood rots.

should have a three wire line with black, blue and green.
blue is tailight, green is brakelight and black is your ground. quick continuity test and then a quick test on the front plug to confirm voltage.
 

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phazed
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well we pulled the seat off, and sure enough the connector up by the tank was unplugged. Snapped it back together and voila, brake light back to working.

Wired up the heated grips to the stock on/off switch, and just ditched the resistor. They work now and once they get too toasty I just switch them off.

Rode it for about 5 hours yesterday, learned that the speedo doesn't work.. and that I have some sort of top end bog or something. If I go wide open on fresh snow, the engine seems to cut out, kind of like a rev limiter or something. If I'm on a packed down trail it has no problem running wide open. I'm thinking TORS?? I don't know much about it at all though. Sounds really bad when it kicks in though.
 

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shouldnt be tors. that would activate regardless of snow condition. more than likely the exhaust outlet is getting closed off due to the deeper snow and your creating a rich bog from sucking underhood gases.

next time your in deep snow, lean the sled over to the right side while riding to get the exhaust out of the snow and see if the problem goes away.

does that sled have the closable vents up front?
 
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