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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a pantera 1000, and it sat for a while without being ridden. It is still nearly brand new but the clutch will not disengage once the centrifigal force of the weights pushes it outward. I can tap it back with a rubber malot easily but it does not go back freely leaving it engaged. Do i need to get a clutch puller and lube the whole thing. Sleds are new to me but I know what I'm doing around mechanical stuff. Please let me know what i should do and where I might be able to find some pictures of the stuff happening. Thanks guys I'm new to the forum and looking for some help. Impress me!! :)
 

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the spring mabe could be dirty or mabe need a new one....i was told it was bad to lubricate clutches and better to leave them dry because dirt will stick to the lube...not sure if it's true but juss wat i heard...hope this helps u out
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The thing only has 300 miles on it and is a couple of years old. It just sat for a while. Any other thoughts. I think it just has some corrosion from sitting in between metal parts. How can I get the thing apart?
 

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you should have the clutches serviced. Any shop can disassemble clean and reassemble. I have this done at the end of each season. Haven't needed new parts yet. Shouldn't cost too much.
I have it done as part of summerizing. If it's been sitting you should have the carbs cleaned too.
If you want to try working on the clutches yourself, check your local dealer, I believe you'll need special tools
 

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the only thing i can think of is the spring is dirty and stinking or somthin....sorry i can't help u more thats all that i can think of...the a bolt in the middle of my clutch i juss take out the spark plug and put pull start rope in the hole to jam the piston so the clutch doesn't turn when u turn the bolt and it should pop off....you clutch might be different
sorry i can't help u more
Corey Pratt
 

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Spray where the weights pivet with wd-40. This should free it up and it will not cause any problems.
 

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It's pretty hard to diagnos your problem when all of the variables are not known. Such as, did you leave the drive belt on all that time? If so it probably left some corrosian on the shaft and it is hanging up on the moveable sheeve bushing. It also probably started some corrosian on the movable sheeve too.
If you do not know how to service it you should take it to your dealer. Do not use any type of Cleaner,Lubricant, or Solvent on any part of the drive clutch it will ruin it. To clean it only use hot soapy water. The clutch needs to be completly disassembled cleaned and any worn or rusted parts replaced. This should be done every season.
 

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Frosty,
I use wd-40 every year to lubricate the moving parts on the clutch. Nothing bad has happened to it. I am not spraying the surface of the clutch. What, in theory am I ruining. I'm not trying to be a smart a$$. I just don't know.
 

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if you spray anything on it use a drylube for clutches you should be able to get it at your cat dealer, lubes like wd-40 allow dust and dirt to stick to parts and wears them out especilly the nylon
bushings and pucks.
 

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Could be a broken clutch spring as well. Sounds alot more like that than sticking clutch espically if it taps back easily but anything is possible. Was it sitting inside or out? Covered or not?
 

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WD-40 has a petroleum based solvent in it which is there to soften contaminants so the lubrication can get through and do it's job. If it gets on the fiber bushings in the fly weights or sheeve bushings it will soften them also. This will cause premature failure. CRC makes a dry silicone lube that can be used but in my experience with clutch wear I have found that using no lube performs the best. However keeping the clutch clean after each ride becomes mandatory. I have to clean the clutch within 24 hours or the condensation that forms as the clutch cools down will start rust.The rust will start inside the fly weight pins. If you don't clean it the rust acts like sand paper and grinds the pins and the fly weight bushings wear faster. Also the residue left behind from any lube will act like a magnet for crap to collect like belt dust .
 

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Thought you might find this you tube video helpful for clutch pulling and some preventative maintenance. I am having the same problem with my ski doo, but I believe that many sleds use similiar, if not the same TRA clutching system. This video gave me the confidence to try the work myself.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92C7...E569C470&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=10

If the link didn't work correctly, just go to youtube and search snowmobile clutch repair and sift through the videos till ya find what ya need.

Hope this helps.
 

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i agree with adrenaline..Either service the clutch yourself or have it serviced. If its only got 300 miles on it, its more likely dirt and such is not allowing the weights, rollers and all moving parts to move freely. A good cleaning with break cleaner would take care of the job. If that does not fix it up check the spring. You can pull the 6 or 9 bolts off the front of the clutch to get at the spring with out having to pull the clutch.

You don't really want to oil/lube the clutch. Not only does it collect dirt but the oil gets thick and slow due to the cold. A really good spray lube is Dry Rem Oil. Remington makes it for their shot guns and is more like a graphite based lube.
 
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