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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,
I have a new to me 2009 Polaris RMK Shift 600 155 with 900 miles on the odo. It has some kind of electrical issues. I'll start diving into it this weekend. The sled has sat for 2 years in a garage prior to me getting it. I picked up a new battery as the old one is shot and it came with a new regulator. I'm planning on giving it a full service and cleaning this weekend. I have the owners manual but didn't see any info about testing the stator? Does anyone have a OHM test guide for this sled? Also is there anything else I should be checking...I've read a little about the relay (still need to get more info) and the TPS. Oh it's CFI. Also does anyone have a guide to test/prime the fuel system (after I drain the old gas)
 

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find the service manual online. they are out there and it should give you the proper ohms for the stator. a sled sitting for two years is not ideal especially if it sat with ethanol gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So have the service manual I'll go through tonight.

I changed the gas, new plugs, new battery, ran carb/injector cleaner through the intake
It started right up with 12.7-13.2 volts at the battery.
The belt is currently off the sled.
It is pretty smokey(under higher rpms)...not sure if this is normal and I don't know what kind of oil is in the tank

Issues so far:
Gauges shut off at idle and any blip of the throttle turns them back on (normal?)
After I let it warm up I let it sit of 30-45 min and the electric starter didn't engage the flywheel (the starter turns but was grinding...i manually rotated the flywheel and it eventually re engaged...the pull start worked the first pull)
Would the belt being off maybe cause the the starter issues or is there an adjustment for the starter?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
After reading through the manual...I'll try and clean/inspect the bendix on the starter tomorrow. At some point I'll pull the power valves and inspect/clean them. I still haven't found out if the gauges going out at idle is normal (I assume no).
 

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I'd check the voltage at idle to see if the stator is giving adequate volts. It may be helpful to find and clean all the grounds to the engine. My 07 or 08 RMKs gauges have never gone black at idle, so I would agree that it's not normal.



I wouldn't worry about a bit of smoke until after you have had a tank of gas through it. Smoke means it's getting well-oiled, which is a good thing! If it is still smoky after a good ride, the oiler may be giving a bit too much oil. The oiler can be adjusted, but it is a royal pain to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I found the voltage specs in the service manual...I'll check that tomorrow. I also checked the idle specs and I'm a few hundred rpm low. It's idling at about 1000-1200. Recommended is 1700 +- 200 rpm. Is there any tricks to adjusting CFI idle? or is it just a screw on the cable like carb models? I think that's gonna be why the gauges are turning off...it's only getting 12.7v at idle instead of the 13.5v it wants. Like I said in my previous post it you blip the throttle it turns right back on and then after you wait 20-30 seconds it turns off while idling.

Lastly, I cleaned/degreased the bendix on the starter. What type of lube for that thing...manual just says light grease(nothing specific)...does anyone use anything else...I've read of some guys using dry graphite spray.
 

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There is an idle speed screw, it should be secured with a locknut. You will have to loosen the locknut to turn the screw.



If you use grease, try something rated for cold weather. I would be hesitant at using dry graphite, it may not give you protection against rust like grease will. Your call.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well the electrical is sorted...belt is back on, starter works (greased bendix), reverse works

Bad news: The smoke I was hoping was oil is coolant. I have a top end gasket set ordered. It's probably the left side cylinder as I let it warm up again and pulled the plugs and noticed steam out the left side. I'll pull the cylinder head tomorrow and check the damage. I'm hoping its gonna be the upper cylinder head o rings. I did notice bubbles coming out of the reservoir when it was idling and it was down a cup or 2 after 20-30 min of idling.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
UPDATE:
So I got it back together and I think I have the coolant leak fixed as well as the compression (115 psi both cylinders). I replaced all the upper gaskets and piston rings. I ran it for 30 min at idle (adjusted to 1700rpm) It got to 157 degrees and was holding steady at the full line on the reservoir. My last issue is the throttle lever. There is about 1/8" of play on the pivot and if you don't hold the throttle down very lightly or put a spacer in between the throttle where the lever and cable connect it will die...I'm gonna dive into this tomorrow. Has anyone had a issue like this...if so whats the fix?
 

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there should be an adjustment on the throttle cable to adjust the freeplay. 1/8" is a bit excessive, as you are finding out. Spec is 0.010" to 0.030". There is an in-line cable adjuster that will allow you to set it closer to spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I played with the adjuster...it's the silver pin that has the play and is causing it to die...almost like you hit the kill switch...maybe grounding out. If that pin is forced to the center of the bar direction it idles fine. As soon as it moves that 1/8" towards the bar end it dies.
20191120_160009.jpg
 

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That is the throttle block safety switch that is killing the engine. Adjust the throttle lever so that there is the required amount of slack between the throttle block and the throttle lever. If it's too tight or too loose, it will interrupt the electricity to the ignition and the engine dies. It's designed that way to help prevent a run-away sled in the event that the throttle body were to hang in the open position. It looks to be a little tight from here...
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I'll give that a shot when I get home from work. If I back it off to the point where it will idle without the safety switch killing the engine and if the engine rpm is still low would I then make the idle adjustments on the throttle body adjuster and not the cable by the handlebar? Is there a spring in the throttle housing putting tension on that pin? Either way I'll check the service manual as well.
 

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I have new to me 2004 Edge 550s with electrical issues. I got 3 identical sleds two have issues. One none of the lights work ? regulator. The other the electric start clicks but starter motor does not engage. Where was the regulator located on your sled? Is it at the right footwell?
 

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I forgot to mention the 3 sleds I got have 250 original miles and were sitting for 3 yrs under a tarp untouched
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You're a different generation...mines on the left side under the belt. Mine sat for 2 years...I'd assume your battery is shot. I've never had a powersport battery last longer than 2-3 years (unless it's on a charger 24/7). So far I've replaced plugs, battery, redone the top end gaskets, new rings, cleaned the power valves, flushed the coolant, changed the gas/cleaned the fuel system. And mine's a 09 with 900 miles on it....always assume you're gonna have to put a good amount of work into something that's been sitting for years. That's why mine was so cheap.
 

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I replaced the battery right off and drove the sled for about 400 miles last winter. The lights just went out on the last ride of the year.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I still haven't had any luck adjusting the throttle level....I've gone from super loose to tight to right at .02" like the book states and the pivot pin won't move towards the center of the bars on its own. Could I have a bad switch? Am I missing some sort of spring in my throttle assembly. If I press the pin in it will start right up. I took the block apart and there were no frayed wires, the actual switch looked fine. Does anyone have a diagram of the throttle block?
 
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