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I can see the rack style carburetors in both pictures in front of the air box. Also with it having VES valves the valves must be cleaned as well every season. Also clean the airbox. Clean the reeds as well as those can get dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I can see the rack style carburetors in both pictures in front of the air box. Also with it having VES valves the valves must be cleaned as well every season. Also clean the airbox. Clean the reeds as well as those can get dirty.
Ah I thought they were, Sorry! It's just been weird to me.
 

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No biggie! Just wanted to get you setup correctly that is what me and dan try to do. Those need to be cleaned every preseason. Also those black boxes in front of the engine...those are the VES Valves those need to be cleaned. Also with it being VES Valved you MUST run Full Synthetic 2 Stroke oil in them or those will get gummed up very quickly. So Polaris VES Gold, AMSOIL or something similar. I would stick to one of those two, I use AMSOIL and the difference is night and day compared to other 2 stroke oils. Also check and clean those reeds as well. Yank all that old gas out, replace the fuel filter and clean those carbs. I am willing to bet there is some gunk in there from the old gas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
No biggie! Just wanted to get you setup correctly that is what me and dan try to do. Those need to be cleaned every preseason. Also those black boxes in front of the engine...those are the VES Valves those need to be cleaned. Also with it being VES Valved you MUST run Full Synthetic 2 Stroke oil in them or those will get gummed up very quickly. So Polaris VES Gold, AMSOIL or something similar. I would stick to one of those two, I use AMSOIL and the difference is night and day compared to other 2 stroke oils. Also check and clean those reeds as well. Yank all that old gas out, replace the fuel filter and clean those carbs. I am willing to bet there is some gunk in there from the old gas.
Okay, Thanks!! You think you can circle those? I am very new to this stuff. Like the pictures I have can you maybe circle or draw on it so I know? Thank you so much!
 

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Trust me owning a snowmobile for the 1st time can be challenging trying to figure it all out. Make sure you check all the bogie wheels, check the hyfax/slides are good and if need of replacement replace with graphite slides/hyfax. Grease every grease nipple you can see, some inside the engine area, shocks, rear suspension and behind the secondary clutch there is one as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Trust me owning a snowmobile for the 1st time can be challenging trying to figure it all out. Make sure you check all the bogie wheels, check the hyfax/slides are good and if need of replacement replace with graphite slides/hyfax. Grease every grease nipple you can see, some inside the engine area, shocks, rear suspension and behind the secondary clutch there is one as well.
Okay! Ya I had to put new needle valves and seats in for it. But I ran it all good yesterday then tried to start it today didn't even sound like it wanted to start. New oil in it. Will like gas stabilizer work maybe? But it kept dyeing when I pulled the pull start, But ran really good yesterday.
 

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I was going to but the pictures are not in jpeg and come up in some video format when I saved them. If you can re-do that I can circle them easily. Also click the polaris link below and then 2007. Now the 2007 is different in some ways HOWEVER it will explain how to clean the VES Valves, Reeds and carburetors which will help you. Yank every drop of gas out of it with a pump, replace the fuel filter behind the air box as well. Check the carbs again, clean the those valves, reeds and check the airbox for anything. Then put it all back together and fresh gas and go from there. Even though he did some work earlier in the year all it takes is one piece of garbage to screw up the fuel system.


this one is not downloadable but has 49 pages

 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I was going to but the pictures are not in jpeg and come up in some video format when I saved them. If you can re-do that I can circle them easily. Also click the polaris link below and then 2007. Now the 2007 is different in some ways HOWEVER it will explain how to clean the VES Valves, Reeds and carburetors which will help you. Yank every drop of gas out of it with a pump, replace the fuel filter behind the air box as well. Check the carbs again, clean the those valves, reeds and check the airbox for anything. Then put it all back together and fresh gas and go from there. Even though he did some work earlier in the year all it takes is one piece of garbage to screw up the fuel system.


this one is not downloadable but has 49 pages

Does this work?
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim Asphalt

Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive exterior
 

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Maybe comes up as a AVIF and I have to find an extension for that. Okay got it to work hold on for a few mins
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Ohh! Yea I cleaned those already like weeks ago. Clean them again? And clean carbs again? Maybe gas like frozen?
 

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Okay carbs are somewhat circled in this one. I can tell you that getting a SLP Boost bottle will help. Those empty round holes in front of the carbs that you see? You can put a boost bottle in those and clamp them down it evens out the pressure between the carbs making it run better throughout the power band.

Wheel Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Automotive design
 

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If you cleaned the VES Valves already then they should be fine. Clean the carbs again, replace the fuel filter and yank out all that old gas and put all new fresh in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Okay! i see those, And there's like barely any coolant in it too I gotta get some. But maybe new plugs too? But either rn or some other day I will take carbs out and clean. But I just don't understand why it ran really good yesterday but today it did not even start.
 

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Stuff from the old gas getting in the carb it happens. Wait there is barely any coolant in it? Hopefully you don't have a leak anywhere so check out all hoses, water pump and what not. Green 60/40 is what Polaris uses OEM so buy a gallon of straight green and mix it 60/40. Also you will need to "burp" the system to get all the air out of it. To do that you jack the front end up as high as you can get it or put it on a hill so engine is much higher then the rear radiators. Then you take the pressure cap off and start it and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes and very slowly the air will come out while you check the overflow bottle and what not.

Yes always keep spare spark plugs and spark plug cap ends as well. I run NGK Iridiums in mine as they last a lot longer then standard NGK plugs. Drain it with w/e pump you have, I use a amazon pump that was like 5 bucks that pulls it out with no issues.
 
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