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I've done a bunch!
I have crates full of gears!
As a racer I can tell you changing gearing can be confusing.
You don't always get what you hope for!
Unless you are adding 50hp you may not even feel it?
 

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I had thought about doing it with the '97 Indy 500 I have but was told don't bother by people. That is just one thing I never got into even when I had sleds with more HP.
 

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I leared way back when they first came out, most of the sleds from Yamaha come over geared!
If all you did was run glare ice they were good!
Dropping a tooth on a 94 Vmax 600 it went from toping out at 90 to 96!
Yep it picked up 6mph by loosing a tooth on bottom, which should have slowed it down,
But instead gave it enough power to pull the clutching and more of a full shift!

So to original poster, mark your helix in driven clutch with a sharpie and when you do the gear swap, see how much farther it shifts!
If you have a GPS do a mile run with both gearing and see what you get!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I"m trying to remove the driven gear and the bolt is really tight and I want to verify it is a standard right hand thread?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So I went down one on the top and two on the bottom which made the chain work even straighter w/ the tensioner. So I'm putting her back together after changing gears. Bought a Husky 3/8 torque wrench from home depot and snapped 4 of the chaincase bolts off...sh%$&t?? I tried it out of course ahead of time and instead of a nice click there was just a subtle release in the handle on my practice bolts which thought was ok?. Well I was waiting on that and on the case bolts I would hear the proper "click or snap" and thought I was doing fine, definitely not fine. One of the broken bolt heads is one of the lower bolts. Can I get some help on how to extract these bolt studs?
 

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Yeah I never use a torque wrench on those chaincase covers. I get it tight then another half turn or a little more. That it the issue with aluminum that stuff doesn't take much to break off. Normally I would say drill into the center of it and use an easy-out, if you can get down to it. Maybe a angle air drill would do it, in that position that is a tough spot to deal with.
 

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I would remove the entire chain case.
Then drill it from the back side!
But wait you say you went
down one on the top and two on the bottom
Thats a total of 3 teeth off, the chain would NOT fit!
What you should have done is either drop one on top and add one on bottom
Or drop one each and get the next smaller chain!
 

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Discussion Starter #29
i went down one tooth on top and up two on the bottom. Chain worked fine and tension roller is out about 3/16 than before. I thought I had this all done and now I have another mess ;)
 

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Not sure how much torque you were trying, the Polaris chaincase torque is 8-10 ft.lbs, which is not a whole lot of torque. I'm with KC, it will be a lot easier to get to the broken parts of the bolt with the chaincase off the sled. Good luck, it doesn't sound like any fun at all. :(
 

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Yep agreed take that whole thing apart as that is the easiest way to do it. When I am working on chaincases or anything aluminum like that there is no real need for a torque wrench other wise you end up with results like this.
 

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Thankfully I have only broken a couple bolts in my life and only stripped out a couple threads. Broke 2 bolts on a cylinder head when my drag race engine was on the block thankfully that took 2 seconds. The threads were spark plugs in the other cylinder head. Amazing we have probably a ton of easy outs and thread tappers and none of barely any use over the years,lol. But if we were to get rid of them that would end up being the time we needed it,lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
well, I got them all out! I took my time and used a prick punch to make a dimple in the broken bolt stud, drilled and the EZ out backed them out. I got super lucky and will be much more careful re-installing the cover once my gasket comes in. thanks for your help
 
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