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Hello all, I am looking to fully restore my 1999 Polaris XC 700. I am wondering if there are any members that specialize in the Poaris Gen 2 models that could get me started in the right direction. I am wondering where I should start. Any help would be awesome. Thank you.
 

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Service Manual will help for one Click Polaris then the 2001 as it has gen II in it. What information are you looking for exactly?

I was just wondering if anyone knows what I need to order for fuel/vent and oil lines??? I have new belt and seat cover. also I want kow what I need for carb rebuild and clutch rebuild kits. Ive never worked on Keihn carbs before. I am tearing down now to get belly pan cleaned and exhaust sand blasted and painted. Just want to have clear direction ya know?
 

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Keihin carbs are very similar to Mikuni and if you are careful taking them apart, you may not need any parts replaced after cleaning. I would consider a fuel pump rebuild kit, as if it has the oil pump sending oil to the fuel pump, those type fuel pumps are hard to come by and really expensive if you can find one. Make sure to mark where your lines go so you remember how it came apart (or take good pictures.)

Fuel line is 1/4" ID, get Tygon. It lasts a lot better. I think the oil line was a little bigger, take some of that with you to your supplier for them to match. Same with the vent line, if yours is bad. Those last a long time and may be ok to re-use. Rigid rubber hose for the impulse line, that can often be re-used but check to verify there are no cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Keihin carbs are very similar to Mikuni and if you are careful taking them apart, you may not need any parts replaced after cleaning. I would consider a fuel pump rebuild kit, as if it has the oil pump sending oil to the fuel pump, those type fuel pumps are hard to come by and really expensive if you can find one. Make sure to mark where your lines go so you remember how it came apart (or take good pictures.)

Fuel line is 1/4" ID, get Tygon. It lasts a lot better. I think the oil line was a little bigger, take some of that with you to your supplier for them to match. Same with the vent line, if yours is bad. Those last a long time and may be ok to re-use. Rigid rubber hose for the impulse line, that can often be re-used but check to verify there are no cracks.
thank you...I will have to measure the fuel lines and all that...thats probably better than just guessing or taking someone's word and it being wrong. Now I am in process of taking out the motor to get belly pan cleaned out,. Its got 20 years of sludge and decomposing leaves in it. I never thought to take pictures, thank you for the tip.
 

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I would buy a new fuel pump if you can I am not one for rebuilding but I know some of those pumps during the years are hard to find NIB but Mikuni should have one that fits. Fuel like will or should be 1/4"
like he said. Also check the tank for the fuel line and make sure the weighted fuel filter is on the end of it if it looks sketchy and I am willing to bet it is, I would be pulling that out and replacing it and it should be Tygon as well as that is the only stuff you can leave submerged in gasoline. Also use good stainless steel clamps as well. I would also check the coolant lines as well. If you are pulling the engine then you are going to have to replace the coolant, 60-40 is the mix Polaris uses from factory and it is green coolant. Yeah you can use 50-50 but I leave mine at a 60-40 since it calls for it. Also the chaincase fluid needs to be from Polaris, AMSOIL or Klotz or something similar as long as it is FULL Synthetic. Same with the oil as well MUST be Full Synthetic on that engine. If it has VES Valves on it make sure you clean those very good as that builds up over the years and make sure the springs/gaskets and bellows are all okay. When you go to get the air out of the coolant system lift that front end up as high as you can get it with the coolant cap off also I would replace the coolant pressure cap as well if you can. Run it at idle for 15-20 minutes usually and slowly the air will come out or do what I did and put it up on a hill and do it that way. Stant makes them and you should be able to match one up vs OEM as I buy new ones every 3-4 years for 5-10 bucks on Amazon from Stant for mine. Make sure you replace the hyfax/slides as well and use graphite if you can find them. Look over that entire suspension including bogie wheels, if it has fox shocks all the way around and they haven't been rebuilt in awhile then I would pull them and get them rebuilt for your weight, style of riding and what not. Sounds like it needs some work so be prepared to buy some parts. I would be going through it with a fine tooth comb before I take it out. Better to do all this work now then in Jan when it is 10 degrees outside and snow on the ground!
 

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If it's got Keihin carbs, the oil feeds into the fuel pump. That pump will be more than 100 bucks IF you can find one, but for the most part, they are unobtanium. You may not even be able to find a rebuild kit. Good luck...

The 99 700 did not have VES valves, you can use any oil that meets TC-W3 standards. Polaris Blue is nice, but spendy. Synthetic is nicer, but not necessary.

+1 on not working on it when there's snow on the ground!!
 

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LOL
I have a fully functional shop in my 29' Cat trailer, it is 6' tall with lights work bench and everything for a snowmobile!
I was told that I am the ONLY snowmobiler that plans on breaking something!
Fact of the mater we usually do LOL
But now that I am not racing any more I am building an inline 2 place I can tow with my VW!
 
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