Looking for an older arctic cat
21 - 40 of 48 Posts
Thanks kc, I ordered a new plunger with 3 ft of 1/8 hose and plastic T for 1/4 ($12) I didn't remember I could get a brass T which is better, I may return it. The end of the original primer hose had a broken off piece of the plastic T.
Still working on the snowmobile, found what I needed on eBay so far. Was wondering where the T goes for the primer, after the fuel filter coming out of the tank or after the pump, nothing in the manual shows it. I also took apart the speedo adapter and found a sheered off piece of key, I'm thinking the adapter got seized up a bit from sitting cause I can't get the speedo cable out of it. Bearing looks ok , greese is in there, how would I know if the bearing is bad? looks to be in good shape though. But the other side of the key is apparently stuck in the drive shaft.
Joined
·
19,934 Posts
If you can't get the key out of the end of the drive shaft, the key is in a bushing that you can pull out. A new bushing is $5.50, a new key will also be needed. No price on that one from Babbits online. You may have to go to a dealer to get one.
www.babbittsonline.com
Check the drive adapter to see if it spins easily. If it spins easily, about the only other thing that can shear the drive key to the adapter is that the bearing fails and as it sags because it failed, it shears the key. Pry up and down on the driveline. There should be zero movement. A frozen adapter will twist the key as opposed to shearing it off.
1997 Arctic Cat BEARCAT 340 (97BCA) Drive Train Shafts And Brake Assemblies | Babbitts Online
Shop online for OEM Drive Train Shafts And Brake Assemblies parts that fit your 1997 Arctic Cat BEARCAT 340 (97BCA), search all our OEM Parts or call at (231)737-4542
www.babbittsonline.com
Check the drive adapter to see if it spins easily. If it spins easily, about the only other thing that can shear the drive key to the adapter is that the bearing fails and as it sags because it failed, it shears the key. Pry up and down on the driveline. There should be zero movement. A frozen adapter will twist the key as opposed to shearing it off.
Thanks guys,
The key was twisted looking and the speedometer cable was frozen in the adapter but got it out with Marvel MO. Also got the key in the driveshaft out with a pick. What I found is the adapter is seized. Will have to find another one if I want my speedometer to work, haven't been able to free it up yet with a square drill bit, but speedometer cable is working fine.
I can get a new key and bearings if needed from MFG, but I think the bearing is okay for now.
The key was twisted looking and the speedometer cable was frozen in the adapter but got it out with Marvel MO. Also got the key in the driveshaft out with a pick. What I found is the adapter is seized. Will have to find another one if I want my speedometer to work, haven't been able to free it up yet with a square drill bit, but speedometer cable is working fine.
I can get a new key and bearings if needed from MFG, but I think the bearing is okay for now.
Attachments
Thanks, also have another issue that I would like to resolve since we have no snow in my area and hardly any in the forecast, where is winter so far? Have a 2x1/2 inch hole in the top of the gas tank that a critter chewed out. Guy before me put on some rubber like patch stuff which is breaking up already so I have been looking for a better alternative like a patch kit with some material. Anyone know what is best for that?
Yeah I was thinking about that too kc, I found something called Gator patch for fixing kayaks and stuff, may try that but I would like to check out the local salvage yard. I've seen on they're add they posted pics of a few 90's sleds for parts, what to do you think a tank should cost from the salvage yard? Would any tank from a two up sled from the late 90's work? The tank is connected to the seat it looks like, don't know if some of the models are the same or different. Will take a pic next time I'm by the sled.
Pretty cheap, if I'm lucky I'll get a tank nearby.
I am going to try get the snowmobile up and running this weekend, snow is on the way. have all new lines, crimps and a few things to put together. Wasn't able to fix a couple of things yet but it will still go. Was still wondering if if the 'T' for the primer goes before the pump or after. No mention of it in the manual. I'm assuming it goes before but it could also go after.
Good at fixing things, just don't have a ton of experience with these yet.
I am going to try get the snowmobile up and running this weekend, snow is on the way. have all new lines, crimps and a few things to put together. Wasn't able to fix a couple of things yet but it will still go. Was still wondering if if the 'T' for the primer goes before the pump or after. No mention of it in the manual. I'm assuming it goes before but it could also go after.
Good at fixing things, just don't have a ton of experience with these yet.
Well I'm at the point now where the snowmobile is sitting in the garage and I'm trying to start it but I got air in the lines and I'm trying to figure out how to get it out. I put gas down the cylinders (fires right up but then dies) to try and prime it but still having trouble getting started, any thoughts? Not sure if the primer ( maybe lines backwards?) is working maybe it needs gas in the line to work? I tried sucking on the gas line going to the carburetor but it keeps getting air bubbles and hard to get the air out. We got snow now..
Attachments
21 - 40 of 48 Posts
