At some point this summer I will rebuild my 2004 Yamaha SXV triple 600 but besides a screwdriver, I have no tools lol. Which tools will I need to go out and purchase? thanks
I’m just going to do the top end so I don’t need to pull the motor right?Metric socket set.
10 mm wrench(s).
razor blade for cleaning old gasket material off (probably the most time consuming part of the job)
Probably 12 mm socket with swivel and extension. Could be Allen-wrench or Torx for the exhaust bolts too.
RTV gasket goop.
if you plan on pulling the motor, you'll need some bigger stuff for the engine mounts. Usually 17 mm. Almost guaranteed that you'll need a deep well socket and a open-end wrench in that size for the nuts/bolts.
So you consider it necessary to have the cylinders honed? As far as I know the engine has never had any work and close to 7k miles. Like Dan said below i probably should have the seals done but I really wanted to avoid completely pulling the engine out. It’s going to be a hell of a task trying to just do the top end. I don’t know a single thing about mechanics and I am a hit of a slow learner. I hope I don’t destroy my sled in the process of trying to figure it all outIf the engine is over 10 years old you should replace the seals too!
Do yourself a favor
Get a good set of tools!
Yamaha is ALL metric, get complete open box wrench set as well as std and deep sockets
As for doing the top end, the jugs will at least need to be honed!
Auto Zone has a hone stone (NO BALL HONE) you can get as a loan a tool.
If you were close to me I would walk you through all of it!
Is it a simple enough process for someone that isn’t mechanically inclined at all? Anyway I can majorly screw it up? Do you think it’d be better to bring the cylinders to a shop to do it for me?Like Bear said. The cross-hatch helps keep oil on the cylinder walls and contributes greatly to long piston ring life. I even run a hone on the nikasil coated cylinders. The hone doesn't really touch the nikasil (that is some TOUGH stuff!) but honing does break up the oil glazing on the surface of the cylinder and brings back some of the factory cross hatch.
Thanks for all the advice everyone and Dan. I know to do the seals I’ll need to pull the engine out but if I can only get around to doing the top end, is it perfectly feasible to do without having to pull the whole engine out of the sled?I like using ziploc bags to put the bolts and small parts in, they close so when they get knocked on the floor the dang things don't go all over the place. Plus, you can write on them to tell you where they came from.
Ditto on the pics, especially if it's something you have not done before. You will rely on them more than you think!