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As KC and I both mentioned, sending your cylinders off may be your best option. They will replate them and make them like new for about half the cost of a new cylinder. I've had 5 cylinders replated by Millenium Technologies, all were returned perfect. US Chrome has the same rep.



Good luck in the search, though!
 

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Yep and I can help you with pistons and gasket sets!
US Chrome some times has a summer special for about $160-175 ea!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
As KC and I both mentioned, sending your cylinders off may be your best option. They will replate them and make them like new for about half the cost of a new cylinder. I've had 5 cylinders replated by Millenium Technologies, all were returned perfect. US Chrome has the same rep.



Good luck in the search, though!
This is most likely the way im gonna go. I did some calling around and seems replating is the way to go. I apreciate the help
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Because of the shape of the cylinders, it's difficult to get an exact torque on the cylinder base nuts without a special tool. I use one like this one from Dennis Kirk, it lets you get an exact torque instead of guessing on the hard-to-reach ones.

https://www.denniskirk.com/motion-pro/torque-wrench-adapter-08-0134.p28729.prd/28729.sku
I was wondering if they had a tool for those back nuts. I very much apreciate this!! So ive gotten the cylinders off is there a lot more to do to get the motor out? Do i need to pull the clutch off to get it out? Someone said i might need a clutch puller to get the motor out is this true?
 

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You don't need to have the clutch off to pull the engine. But if you are going to split the crankcase, the clutch will probably be in the way and will be a lot easier to remove with the engine firmly planted in the sled. If all you are doing is replacing the pistons/rings/cylinders and you are confident that the bottom end is fine, you don't even have to pull the engine to do that.

The engine straps have four bolts holding the engine to the sled. They are pretty easy to get to. You should also remove the bump stop, that can get in the way, too. Once the coolant is drained and the oil lines and cable and carbs are off, the engine will come out pretty easy. When I had a pesky 97 RMK 700 that had lots of issues, I got to where I could pull the sled in the garage and have the engine on the bench in about 45 minutes. A Polaris Deep Snow repair manual for the year of the sled is handy to have for the proper steps to removal, as well as the torque settings for putting things back together.
 
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