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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '94 ZR 580, I've cleaned the carbs and checked all adjustments. The sled idles good but when taking off it acts like it has a sputter to it, almost like it has a miss. I checked the plugs and they are both identical, tan color but almost appear to have a hint of gray to them. So I figured maybe alittle lean and raised the needles. This seemed to make it run alittle worse. Checked the plugs again and they appeared the same. I was going to go the other way with them and see what it does but I'm not convinced this will even do it. I'm beginning to wonder about the timing because, I had removed the stator to have it tested when I had a no spark issue [which was due to cable adj.]. I marked it before removal and reinstalled to the same place. I don't know what symptoms occur on a small engine when timing is out!?! Could this maybe be it? Is there any way I can check timing myself? Or does it sound like I need to stick with the carbs? Help, please!!!!!
Oh, by the way, this sputtering seems to stay with it throughout all speeds. Boggs in deep snow.
 

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mine did that too. but the pipe leaked so i scred it together whre there were missing rivets. and that solved it. my plugs are nice and all but sometimes i still get a miss. but sealing the pipe helped so much. so if your pipe leaks try that. but if you find the problem tell me so i can completely fix mine. also what would just the stock pipe run a person?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My pipe's not leaking and I believe your looking at about $200-$300 for a new pipe. Keep an eye on the post I'm hoping someone will have some ideas to check out. I've been through these carbs twice.
 

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If you lines up the marks, the stator timing couldn't have changed. Try larger pilot jets. Those do idle to starting acceleration. The tan/gray plugs would indicate a tad too lean also. Are the carb boots OK?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you mean the boots between the carbs and the engine, yes they are, but the one to the air box had some issues and I used some military electrical wire sealant to fix these. When I picked up this sled, the motor had come from a 1996 EFI model so I dont know as though someone else hadnt messed with it due to the no spark thing!?! I'm curious, why would I need to start changing jets if they are the originals? Ive often wondered this while reading these replies in other threads. It has the stock pipe. Although, I will try your ideas, I want to ride!!! 16" of snow and I cant figure this out!! By the way, the pilots are the screws located along side the main jet? [Mikuni carbs]
 

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You take the bowl off to put larger jets in it. The air bleed screws are on the side of the carb, near the top. You'll see a big one on the side (idle screw) and a slot head one near the top (air bleed). Turn it a quarter turn one way, if it gets worse, turn it the other way.
 

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sounds like you are running lean. fix that issue but with the sputtering issue i believe its the wires from your carbs. unplug your carbs from the main harness and make two seperate loops with wire and connectors (male on one end and female on other end) and plug them into the main harness. this should fix the problem. those wires sence ice build up in the carbs and try to shut the motor down. when they wear out it causes what you are describing. make sure you run some isopropal in your tank or your carbs can freeze and with this feature removed can cause problems.
the reason you need to change jets is temperature. jets are good for 20 degree temp changes. if it drops below the set temp for your jet it can run lean and blow up. the jetting specs should be on your clutch cover. as for temps going higher than the jet is set for you will start running rich and fouling plugs.
 

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ok the link was bad and i cant get it to work so here is the path to get to it. click the link below then click on the firecat, click on the 1994 at the left, click the 1994 zr580 (0650-290-1994), now click carburetor, here is the pic of your carb with a list of parts at the right.
good luck!!


http://www.brownsleisureworld.com/Parts/index.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I think I found the problem, and it isn't good. Lowered the needle one groove from center and it ran a whole lot better. Drove it about 2 miles and the engine tightened up. Pulled compression test and found left cyl. at 65 psi. Removed jug and found rings stuck to piston on two sides with aluminum mashed into them. I believe it may have already been on its way out. Looks as though someone may have rebuilt it with a bad jug. Thanks for your replies. Time for rebuild. Now I need a jug any leads??? I know I can sleeve it,but that sounds like it could get expensive.
 
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