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That about sums it up.

On my three RMK's, there is no zerk fitting and no hole for the jackshaft, and I've never greased any of them. When the bearing goes bad, I will replace it. The chaincase side bearing is lubricated by the chaincase lubricant, so it does not fail near as frequently.
 

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I just put a new belt on my indy 440 1993 and it is way to tight how do I Agust belt deflection.
Thanks
 

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I just refuled my sled for the first time with 87 octane it ran like crap for a cople minets then died.
Now it wont start. On the hood it ses to use 88 octane. I thought thet 87 and 88 were the same. What shood i do? Thay dont sell 88 at the pump.
 

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When did you clean the carburetors, those should be cleaned every preseason as the ethanol does leave stuff behind, even 93 will leave stuff behind. Also no 87 octane is going to make a snowmobile just not run. Yes it has ethanol in it but it makes no difference if its 87 or 88. My dad made that crap for close to 30 years at Mobil. Cracks me up every time I hear that sentence. Has to be something else. Clean the carburetors from top to bottom. I am guessing there was stuff in the carburetors and when you ran it, it caused said piece or pieces to clog up a jet or passageway happens all the time hence clean the carburetors every preseason. Use a small piece of wire to clean the jets along with passageways and carb cleaner good stuff not starting fluid, don't even use starting fluid to start it that stuff is made for diesel engines. Use a small amount of gasoline and it can even have a little oil in it down each spark plug hole.
 

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So put some gas down the silenders before i clean the carbs to see is the compretion and spark is good?
 

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No, you check the compression without doing that. If you want to start it up after cleaning the carburetors or for the 1st start of the year you pour a little gas down the spark plug holes.

You need to clean those carburetors asap. I am betting that is what happened a piece or pieces broke loose and clogged up a jet. I wrote up a long post on how to do it, lemme see if I can find it.
 

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When doing a carb cleaning they need to be pulled FROM the sled completely. What I do is this....

I take a white marker pen and mark on the side of it C for clutch or #1 and S for Stator or #2
I then pull the air-box, loosen the clamps on the carb boots and pop out the carbs.
I then slowly unscrew the top of it where the cables are going in and slowly pull out the entire venturi assembly and all. Making sure that nothing falls out. Do make sure if this does happen once the airbox is out put a small box or tub underneath the carbs.
Now I pull the bottom drain hose off to get rid of any fuel into said tub.
Now do this to each carb slowly, also while the cable and venturi's are sitting there doing nothing spray them down with some good carb cleaner CRC or Gumout not cheap Walmart garbage
With each carb off of the sled take them to someplace you can clean them on a nice flat surface
Grab a notebook as well as you will need this for part of the carb cleaning. Also have a tub for the clean parts as well.
Drop the bottom off of it where the 4 screws are, take the gasket off and set it somewhere it will not get ruined otherwise you are looking at buying a new gasket or carb rebuild kit.
Pull the needle/seat off carefully, inspect and make sure you DO NOT lose the clip! Set that off to the side and spray it with some carb cleaner.
Now those floats may or may not come out, ICR on those but those should be ok unless they are cracked.
Now you need to go to the side where the mixture screws are. Make a mental note or write down where each one goes.
For the Idle screw, screw it in to seated and while you do that COUNT how many turns in it took you.... i.e did it take 1.5 turns and it was seated? Regardless of the number right now in the notebook, carb C or S or # 1 or #2 Idle screw needs to be backed out 1.5 turns from seated when re-installing. With that screw out that also needs to be sprayed down with carb cleaner and have a piece of wire possibly run through it as those can get clogged as well.
For the rest of the screws the same instructions apply, count how many turns in each one takes till it is seated, mark it down in your notebook and the type of screw, clean them and set them off to the side with the rest of the clean parts.
Now you can take out the rest of the jets one by one, spraying them down with carb cleaner, cleaning them with a piece of small wire also and set off to side.
Do that with every jet including the needle! One of them will also have a c-clip on it right down in your notebook what position that c-clip was in as it makes a difference.
Once EVERY jet is out and cleaned let them sit while you work on the main body.
Now with NOTHING in the main body of the carb spray it top to down in carb cleaner DO NOT let it sit in carb cleaner for more then a couple minutes.
Take a soft toothbrush and scrub that thing top to bottom, take that small piece of wire and clean each passage thoroughly, take a compressor or canned air and spray it into the carb body several times as all it takes is a very small piece of gunk (which FYI I think is part of your problem along with not cleaning them the right way) to make sure nothing is left. Scrub it wherever you see yellow or green as the type of fuel we have these days just gunk's up a carb bad.

Also when done with cleaning the 1st carb put it back together and set off to the side so you are not mixing up or switching parts from one carb to another.

Before putting the carb back together give each jet a quick once over with the wire again and verify by looking in there nothing is left. But it back together in reverse of how you took it apart. If any of the parts are still wet them use the compressor to dry them off.

DO this with EACH CARB!
 

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@BC_Dan I wonder should that post on how to clean a carburetor be made into a regular thread and stickied? How to do Round Mikuni Carburetors when cleaning them for a twin or triple?

I can create a new thread on it in the engine or Polaris area up to you.
 

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Yes it woud be a good idea to make this a diferent thred but I dont know how to do that. Thanks so much for your help.
 

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No I will make a thread on that post for a sticky for all to see and add information with it.

To make a new thread go to the specific forum you want i.e Polaris then on the right hand side it says...Start Discussion and then you put in a title and then in the bigger area post what help you are in need of.
 

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Check the fuel line in the gas tank. Those are known to rot off and if it needs replacing then it MUST be Tygon. Also if the fuel pump is original it wouldn't be shocking that it is also bad. Those are easy to replace and a cheap fix for 25 bucks for a Mikuni replacement. I had a '93 Indy 440 L/C and I had to replace the original fuel pump because of this. The pump was just shot, those parts wear out and gas takes a toll on them over 27 years. I can post the link to the right pump as well. It will be a top mount pump which is better then the original one that is a pita to put back in.
 

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The fuel line in the gas tank is good. The fuel pump looks pretty corroded. It would be great if you could give me a link to the right one.
Thanks.
 

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There is only three lines thet go into my old fule pump so i would just leave the 4 pipe with nothing atached to it?
 

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It is carburetor correct? And no it should have more then 3 lines on it. One to each carb, one from the fuel tank and then one to the crankcase so 4 total.
 
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