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I Want a Rev
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to clean up my carbs and have been talking to different people about what I need to do. One guy says I need to disassemble everything and soak all the parts in degreaser, making sure they're clean and reassemble. That doesn't sound too bad....

Another guy that has been involved in racing sleds since the 50's, said all I need to do is simply place the carbs in a big pot of boiling water for a few minutes and that will break up all the crud. He said the Mikuni's don't have anything internally that will be harmed by the boiling technique, like rubber seals and whatnot, and I have nothing to worry about.

Hmmmm :confused:


I'd like to hear your guys preferred methods of carb cleaning. Thanks for helping out the newb :eek:
 

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I Want a Rev
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't know if simply putting Gumout in the tank b4 I run will help my problem. I was fouling my middle plug after 100-150 miles towards the end of the season, so I know something is not working properly. The Gumout might work if the carbs aren't too bad, but I think my case is a bit more severe than most.
 

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I Want a Rev
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774 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No worries....I will use the Gumout as precaution at the beginning of the season, I mean it can't hurt, right?

Thanks for the replies
 

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I am Spartacus
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If it's taking 100-150 miles to foul the plug, then your carbs are OK. A carb problem would be evident way sooner. Is the plug black and oily? I'd recommend trying one step hotter plug in that cylinder and see what happens.
 

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I Want a Rev
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
smallengineguy said:
If it's taking 100-150 miles to foul the plug, then your carbs are OK. A carb problem would be evident way sooner. Is the plug black and oily? I'd recommend trying one step hotter plug in that cylinder and see what happens.
OK, I'll give that a try this season. I still run the stock temp plugs...I can't even remember whattemp they are??? 9's, maybe 8...??? I'll have to look....

I still want to get the carbs cleaned up, they have not been cleaned in 4 years, that I know of.
 

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yeah, its a good idea to clean em... well, i have heard of using degreaser. never anything about the boiling water but if there are no rubber parts or anything, it makes sense...

guess im not much help huh? id say both ways are good.

i know with my dirtbike, we put somethin in gasoline to clean it... my air filter or somethin??? i dunno.

i think ill use the gumout too on my rev... i wanna spoil that thing, since ill be on it!
 

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I am Spartacus
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I still want to get the carbs cleaned up, they have not been cleaned in 4 years, that I know of. [/B][/QUOTE]

If you use the sled every year, there's no need to clean 'em. The only reason you should have to actually take them out and clean them is if it won't idle, pops and sputters, and generally runs like a jet is plugged. Other than that, don't mess with a good thing! I'd just do like above and run Gumout with your fuel.
 

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I Want a Rev
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774 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
smallengineguy said:
If you use the sled every year, there's no need to clean 'em. The only reason you should have to actually take them out and clean them is if it won't idle, pops and sputters, and generally runs like a jet is plugged. Other than that, don't mess with a good thing! I'd just do like above and run Gumout with your fuel. [/B]
I don't know what running with a plugged jet is like. It idles OK, has a hard time starting once in a while, and loads up and fouls the center plug after a good run of 100-150 miles.

The sled was run very little, less than 200 miles in 4 years, before I bought it. I still want to clean them, I am very anal with anything I drive and I would rather not be left out on the trail because I skipped out on routine maintenance in the off season.
 

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I am Spartacus
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Remove the carbs, and then one at a time, disassemble and clean the jets, bowls, etc. I just use spray carb cleaner and compressed air. I wouldn't remove the inlet needles though. They are kinda hard to put back in, and since you don't have a problem getting fuel to the carb, that part is fine. most jets unscrew from the carb body. Just remember where your air bleed screws are set before you remove them (how many turns).
 

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The biggest problem with plugged jets will be in the lean condition in the piston that the plugged jets cause. Lean is bad and expensive. Trust me. It does not take much dead gas turned to varnish in the float bowl to plug 'em.

A good cleaning of the carbs is easy and cheap maintenance and may prevent a melted piston.

I have used the aerosol carb cleaners to clean mine, it works fine. But I had heard about boiling the parts, so I tried that once after I had used the cleaner. I was amazed how much black crap came to the surface of the water from my "clean" carbs.
 

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BC_Dan said:
The biggest problem with plugged jets will be in the lean condition in the piston that the plugged jets cause. Lean is bad and expensive. Trust me. It does not take much dead gas turned to varnish in the float bowl to plug 'em.

A good cleaning of the carbs is easy and cheap maintenance and may prevent a melted piston.

I have used the aerosol carb cleaners to clean mine, it works fine. But I had heard about boiling the parts, so I tried that once after I had used the cleaner. I was amazed how much black crap came to the surface of the water from my "clean" carbs.
Ditto on what BC_Dan said, also take smallengine guy's advice. Do it one carb at a time, so you have a carb to referrence if you get out of control taking stuff apart. Also you may want to take out your air cleaner & tear that apart. If it was ridden so little in the past 4 years, you may have a nest or something restricting airflow.

Also a Polaris engine tech showed me a quick tip if your fouling plugs every 100 - 200 miles. (again this was a certified Polaris mechanic, so he has a butt load more knowledge then me.) When you open your air cleaner there will be a shelf right in the middle. It does almost NOTHING. Its just a big plastic plate with a couple of air holes drilled out. The main thing this shelf does it redirect any snow spray you may inject while DEEP powder riding. I say DEEP as in constant fluff coming over your hood. For trail riding & ditch banging you should be safe in removing this shelf. This also leans your machine a hair with out messing with your jeing. Polaris sent the tripples jetted VERY fat from the factory, so aside from rejetting, this technique suposably brings the motor back to life. (I noticed a slight mid-range & top end response with this mod.)
 

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Damaged Sled - where to begin??

The biggest problem with plugged jets will be in the lean condition in the piston that the plugged jets cause. Lean is bad and expensive. Trust me. It does not take much dead gas turned to varnish in the float bowl to plug 'em.

A good cleaning of the carbs is easy and cheap maintenance and may prevent a melted piston.
I have a 1994 Polaris XCR 600 that hasn't been run very often over a period of about 6 years. I always had a hard time getting it started and it often did strange things like run with way high RPMs - even when just idling. So my friend who knew much more about sleds than I did decided to adjust the screws for the pilot air jets thinking the high RPMs were coming from a bad air to fuel ratio.

Shortly there after I accidentally rode it down to an empty tank of gas - and all that bad gas from the bottom of my tank probably went through the engine. Since it ran out of gas I have not been able to get the engine anywhere close to turning over.

What are the chances that I was running lean from messing with the carbs vs just a clot of sludge going in and mucking up the engine? Should I start by cleaning the carbs and what do I look for while doing it? What else should I do to undo years of sitting dormant? Sorry if some of this is repeat from other threads but ive looked everywhere and could use the straight answer. Thanks!
 

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Rick
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there is a how to thread on cleaning carbs that breaks it all down.
 
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