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1999 Arctic Cat z370 and 2001 Arctic Cat z440
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Discussion Starter #1
How should I go about summarizing my sleds? Sea foam and stabile in the gas and then start em once a month for a few mins? I don’t really want to take the intakes apart to fog them
 

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I rarely even use fuel stabile. Just go out and start them all about every 5-6 weeks. But, I live in one of the driest climates in the world.
 

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If you can start them monthly, run the engine until the coolant gets up to operating temperature. You should be able to feel heat in the head exchangers in the tunnel. That is what I do.

You should also grease all the fittings on the suspension and lubricate all the heim joints on the front end to get rid of any water that has entered. That will help prevent rust over the summer.

It's also a good idea to get the sled off the ground and to take the weight off of the suspension. Even having a block of wood under each ski and the track will work. You want to prevent ground contact with the track as that can lead to premature track damage. You can build a stand for the back to get the tunnel up so there is no weight on the springs, that can add life to the springs.

If the sled is outside, you may want to also put some steel wool in the exhaust to keep rodents out of the exhaust. Some mothballs in a dish in the engine compartment can keep the critters from wanting to chew on your wiring, as well.
 

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All I do is take every bit of gas out of the tank I can, throw some stabil in there then let it run for 5-10 minutes so the stabil gets through the system. I then hit the fuel shut off valve and run it till it dies on its own. Once it is cooled down I spray pi-oil down each of the cylinders and pull it over a few times. Then once a month I pull the plugs spray pi-oil down there and pull it over a few times. That way it doesn't lock up over the summer.

Along with greasing all the fittings on it as well, I also put the rear of the snowmobiles on homemade track lifts so the tension is off the rear suspension. And that is all I end up doing.

Next preseason I clean the carburetors like normal but doing it that way even with using ethanol gas leaves me with usually pretty clean carburetors. Last 2 seasons I had nothing in either carburetor but I still clean them regardless because it isn't much time to do them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok thanks for all the info! What is pi oil? I’ll get the rears off the ground and throw some mothballs under the hoods.
 

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Aerokroil is one basically penetrating oil for the most part. I call it pi-oil because there was a brand like that at one point my dad used to get at Mobil Oil for free when he worked at the refinery in Joliet/Elwood, IL for 25 some years. Keeps everything lubricated and rust free in the engine compartment so over the summer it doesn't lock up on you and keeps things moving freely.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK so like some PB blaster would work? I'll go get some stabile today and run them for a little while and then shut the fuel off to keep the carbs dry.
 

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And there begins the debate
Do you let it dry and dry out or full and treated?
I have done both
Issue I have had with run dry is just that, it all drys out.
I have had dry and wet apart to clean EVERY preseason
The dry I have had to replace the neo tipped needle and seats!
I have had no luck with Stable either!
SeaFoam for me has worked the best!
Run it in each tank even!
I treat and run tank down, pull plugs and give good shot of WD40
Pull the belt, and raise the back end!
Thanx Giving I clean carbs and then fresh Prem and More Seafoam
 

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I will never use Seafoam products. Even when I ran auto parts stores I couldn't sell the stuff because of the issues with it in cars. But others like yourself have had good luck. So whatever works for what you want to do then that is all that matters.

I leave some gas in the tank and I run it with the stabil for several minutes so it gets through the system then shut the fuel valve off it dies within a couple seconds. Been doing it that way for 42 years and never an issue except for the occasional dirt in the carburetors next preseason but that is to be expected. During the summer I do the pi-oil and pull them over. I leave the belts on both machines. With regards to needle/seats I change mine out anyways every few years along with the fuel pump. For the cost eh just easier on me.
 

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If I were going to oil the cylinders, I would just use some 2-stroke oil. I would think it would cling to the cylinders better than a penetrating oil, therefore helping to prevent rust a bit longer. I would also think that coating would be way more important in high humidity areas where there is a way better chance of condensation, unlike out here where our summers are sometimes single digit humidity. JMHO, mind you. What ever works is what works! (I'm a "half-can of Seafoam in the tank on the first ride" kind of guy, too ;) )
 

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We've tried both over the year and the Aerokroil has seemed to work best on those twins we have. Main thing is that whatever works for everyone that is what matters in the end. We each have our preferences but in the long run as long as we all end up with them running correctly that is the goal.
 

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I jsust pulled apart an Ovation I picked up from ClodeV here bout 10 years ago
It was NOT treated, the exhaust Y pipe was rusted!
Pulled cyl and they are perfect 10,000 miles on it and again Perfect!
Not only has it sat out for over 10 years I stole the 2 barrel carb off it and just put a bag in the hole!

So the idea that you Must fog or what ever every year, kinda not needed!
 

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When I let the sleds sit for the summer, I drain all of the gas out, and throw some non ethanol 91, with some k100 in the tank, run it for 5-10 minutes, and then park her. I start it maybe every 2 months, but I've never had a problem. This year I made space in the basement for a few of them, but some had to stay outside, and I did the same process with those, but put a big ball of tin foil in the exhaust and air box vents. I guess mice don't like tin foil! Also stay away from Irish spring soap. It works for about 3-5 weeks, but once the strong smell goes away, the mice eat it. Works good if you replace it every 3ish weeks though.
 

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We fogged for a couple years in the '80s and that crap makes a mess. Can't pay me money to fog a carburetor or engine anymore. Even with boats be it our outboards or speedboats with i/o engines we would just drain all the gas out as much as possible put some stabil in, hook up a kit and run green coolant throughout the whole system till it came out the lower end port then shut it off till next spring. Started up every year without a problem along with no block cracks or issues.
 

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I shut off the gas and run the carbs dry. grease skid. steel wool in exhaust re: critters. sometimes I will pull the 2 stroke oil pump lever all the way up while engine is still runnning to extra oil the cyl. Though this is often more of a inseason thing if I think I won't be back to the sled for a couple of weeks. Usually I follow basically what the manual says. Remove both spark plugs, lower one side piston, all the way down. add an once or so of 2 stroke oil down plug hole. let is sit a minute or two so it drains to crank bearings, bring other piston to bottom, repeat. Then slowly crank engine around 1-2 times to spread 2 stroke on cyl walls. this is simple and I think works the best. 2 stroke is sticky.
 

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How should I go about summarizing my sleds? Sea foam and stabile in the gas and then start em once a month for a few mins? I don’t really want to take the intakes apart to fog them
Do you have carburetors? If so, there should be a drain screw on the float bowls. You can empty the gas tank as much as possible if it's plastic, run it out and then drain carbs. I've never started a snowmobile in the summer. Lube up whatever you can and spray down the metal with WD-40. Depending on where the machine is stored I'd plug up any holes where mice could enter too.
 

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I agree with getting the fuel out of the carbs and what I do is add Stabil to the tank, run till up to operating temp and then shut off fuel. Just before it dies, I then flip choke lever up and down to allow engine to suck all of the fuel out of the small passage ways throughout the carbs. I them turn each piston to TDC and add about 1 oz. of 2 stroke oil and slowly turn engine over so that oil coats the cylinder walls and dumps down into crankcase. Then I spin engine over to sling oil throughout crankcase. I then go ahead and do my preseason and then store for the summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I’ll run stabil through it, drain the carbs, then add 2 stroke oil to the cylinders, and take the weight off the rear track. Thanks for the advice!
 
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