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Discussion Starter #1
I ran both my sleds yesterday and ran into issues with both.

First, my ZRT appears to have a clutch issue. The sled only has 343 miles on it, so I can't imagine the clutch being worn out. What it does is the first time you start it and let it warm up a bit, it doesn't want to engage until around 6K and then it's stuck engaged until it stalls. From there I rotate the secondary by hand a little and then it's fine. At the end of yesterday, starting it was really hard due to the clutch semi sticking. Is this something I can take apart and fix myself, or should I drop it off at the dealer today???

Second, my ZR's recoil seems to have an issue. When it works, it's smooth and starts very easily. However, with the extreme cold weather yesterday, the recoil wouldn't engage. I'd pull on it and nothing... give it small tugs, and it would eventually catch. It seems to work ok but acts like it needs to be taken apart and cleaned. Am I on the right track? Or is the recoil on its way out. An other issue I noticed yesterday is that it seems like the carbs need cleaning. I'm just about done with the old gas that was in it and it starts fine and seems to run fine, but a couple of times when I'd come to a stop, the idle was almost not there unless I kept it going with my thumb, and then the idle would come back and be fine. How hard is it to clean the carbs? Do they have to come out or do you spray cleaner in them? It there a step by step tutorial online?
 

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Clean the clutch, Perhaps remove it or atleast the cover. I have a step by step for that.
The pull rope is prob just wet and frozen? Remove it (bottom bolt is a PITA!) and spray it down with WD40 and work it, also spray the rope itself too!
 

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For the ZeRT, do take the clutch apart and clean it, it's likely sticking on the center bushing or has worn rollers or weights. Check the secondary as well.

For the ZR, take the recoil off and clean it. Use dry lube when reassembling.
Idle dropping too low when warm points to air screw too far in (rich). Turn item both out 1/8 turn at a time until the rpm starts to climb and then set idle stop screws to desired idle speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies you guys... the idle on the ZR is fine except sometimes it just acts like the carb is dirty. IOW, most of the time, no issue but sometimes when you slow down or come to a stop, it acts like it might stall so you keep it going but then the idle kicks in and it idles fine. On that, I'm going to have to read up on basic carb cleaning. It run REALLY REALLY well most of the time. I'm guessing that when I get fresh fuel in it, she'll run well all the time.

On the ZRT, where can I find a how to on the clutch??? Will it cover both?
 

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To do what needs to be done on that, you will need to remove the outer plate (mark it to the body first) then with the spring out you can move the sheave to inspect the rollers and weights.
The secondary is even simpler, remove the three nuts and give a twist as you pull it off. Check the plastic buttons for wear and also that the sheave moves freely.
 
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