[lookingforsled]

Total beginner to everything snowmobile. Looking to buy a sled to basically be a shuttle for skiing out west. Don’t need any crazy ability to climb/speed, but deep snow would be a factor. Only getting to the bottom of a mountain before walking up, so would need some ability to do minor hills and stuff but nothing crazy. Currently 2 contenders.

First: 1994 Polaris Indy 600 ($550)

• New spark plugs, practically new belt and unused, new spare belt
• Runs

-10,177 miles
Photos:

I

Second Sled: Polaris Indy Lite 340 , approximately 1991 ($400)

• Throttle sticks
• Engine revs when starts
• 1118 miles

Photos:

Any thoughts/opinions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[BC_Dan]

I would avoid the indy lite, that track is a very odd size and is no longer made. Deep snow takes a lot of HP to navigate, you don't have much at all in the 340 engine. It also has a direct drive, no chaincase. So if you were to put a longer rear suspension on it, it would not have enough power to turn it. I had one, with a full size person on it, it did ok on the trails and not ok off. It was a great kids sled or for adults new to sledding that did not vary off the trails.

You could make the triple work if you bought a deeper lugged track. As it is, it will be stuck a LOT and you won't have much time for skiing because you spend your day frustrated as you dig. I had an Indy 650 a bit older than that triple, but it had a 2" track. It was much better than most 121" sleds but still not as good as an SKS or later RMKs of the same vintage. If you can find a 136" or 144" sled with at least a 2" track, you will have a better time on the snow.

 

[lookingforsled]

I would avoid the indy lite, that track is a very odd size and is no longer made. Deep snow takes a lot of HP to navigate, you don't have much at all in the 340 engine. It also has a direct drive, no chaincase. So if you were to put a longer rear suspension on it, it would not have enough power to turn it. I had one, with a full size person on it, it did ok on the trails and not ok off. It was a great kids sled or for adults new to sledding that did not vary off the trails.

You could make the triple work if you bought a deeper lugged track. As it is, it will be stuck a LOT and you won't have much time for skiing because you spend your day frustrated as you dig. I had an Indy 650 a bit older than that triple, but it had a 2" track. It was much better than most 121" sleds but still not as good as an SKS or later RMKs of the same vintage. If you can find a 136" or 144" sled with at least a 2" track, you will have a better time on the snow.

I must admit realistically, most REAL deep days I probably won’t even sled because of avy danger anyway, and less of a need to go far, so I’ll be close enough to just skin. But what about on days with more average snow? Would a 600 do fine on that?

 

[BC_Dan]

With the 121" trail track that comes with that sled new, you will be stuck when you get off the beaten path. If you upgrade to a 2" track (or as big as the tunnel will allow) you will still be stuck, but not near as often. That's why mountain sleds have LONG tracks with really DEEP lugs. We hate getting stuck

 

[lookingforsled]

With the 121" trail track that comes with that sled new, you will be stuck when you get off the beaten path. If you upgrade to a 2" track (or as big as the tunnel will allow) you will still be stuck, but not near as often. That's why mountain sleds have LONG tracks with really DEEP lugs. We hate getting stuck

Err,

With the 121" trail track that comes with that sled new, you will be stuck when you get off the beaten path. If you upgrade to a 2" track (or as big as the tunnel will allow) you will still be stuck, but not near as often. That's why mountain sleds have LONG tracks with really DEEP lugs. We hate getting stuck

Ah dang, that’s a struggle. Used sled market is basically just Indys in my area (central oregon) from what I’ve seen so this might be the end of my sled journey unfortunately haha.

 

[BC_Dan]

i will keep an eye out for ya, what is your budget? (kfalls here)

 

[lookingforsled]

i will keep an eye out for ya, what is your budget? (kfalls here)

Sadly pretty low haha, like $600 low. Bend for me. Thanks for the help.

 

[BC_Dan]

I'll keep an eye out!

 

[kccats]

Neither LOL
Get an old Mountain Cat 600 efi

 

[silversurfer]

I had an old Storm I did a suspension swap to more modern and more travel setup - called Extra Ten. It helped a lot. You need a lityle mechanical ability and be able to read modification articles online and source used parts for that.

Other's opinions may differ, but taller suspension and longer tracks are a blessing if you have a possibility of deeper snow / Skiing, Go a tidge newer with better suspension.

I sold my 2001 XCSC 800 Polaris last year for $1,400.

 

[stevem5215]

Yep, the Xtra 10 was the best one available at the time.

 

[csavall]

Total beginner to everything snowmobile. Looking to buy a sled to basically be a shuttle for skiing out west. Don’t need any crazy ability to climb/speed, but deep snow would be a factor. Only getting to the bottom of a mountain before walking up, so would need some ability to do minor hills and stuff but nothing crazy. Currently 2 contenders.

First: 1994 Polaris Indy 600 ($550)

• New spark plugs, practically new belt and unused, new spare belt
• Runs

-10,177 miles
Photos:
View attachment 67417
View attachment 67419

View attachment 67418
View attachment 67416
View attachment 67415 I

Second Sled: Polaris Indy Lite 340 , approximately 1991 ($400)

• Throttle sticks
• Engine revs when starts
• 1118 miles

Photos:
View attachment 67421
View attachment 67422
View attachment 67424
View attachment 67423


Any thoughts/opinions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[csavall]

I do exactly what you are thinking of, use sleds strictly for high-mountain back-country skiing. You won't be happy with either of those sleds, because they have carburetors. In the mountains, your altitude will vary from about 7000' to 13000' and carbs will never be tuned correctly with that much altitude variation. Plus, carbs are a PITA. You absolutely need EFI - electronic fuel injection, which compensates for altitude changes. You'll likely be riding 2/3-up, and or towing others, so I'd say a 600cc sled is about minimum power. Also a 150"+ track length with powder paddles, unless you'll only ride on groomed trails. You can get a used sled in that range for under $3500 or so. Even at that, don't plan on being able to tow or ride 2-up on anything steep and deep. I have powder mountain sleds, and added a seat back so the rear rider doesn't slide off the back.

 

[lookingforsled]

I do exactly what you are thinking of, use sleds strictly for high-mountain back-country skiing. You won't be happy with either of those sleds, because they have carburetors. In the mountains, your altitude will vary from about 7000' to 13000' and carbs will never be tuned correctly with that much altitude variation. Plus, carbs are a PITA. You absolutely need EFI - electronic fuel injection, which compensates for altitude changes. You'll likely be riding 2/3-up, and or towing others, so I'd say a 600cc sled is about minimum power. Also a 150"+ track length with powder paddles, unless you'll only ride on groomed trails. You can get a used sled in that range for under $3500 or so. Even at that, don't plan on being able to tow or ride 2-up on anything steep and deep. I have powder mountain sleds, and added a seat back so the rear rider doesn't slide off the back.

Im in oregon, so it is lower elevation mountains - 4000 to 10,000. But would never really go much above 4600, because I’m basically just using the sled to go on roads to cut down on approach time. Live in a land of volcanos, so approaches are like 11-15 miles til the bottom of the mountain without a sled. Plus it’s mostly wilderness, so basically I’m just cutting out the road skinning and like 3/4 of the approach.

 

[csavall]

Im in oregon, so it is lower elevation mountains - 4000 to 10,000. But would never really go much above 4600, because I’m basically just using the sled to go on roads to cut down on approach time. Live in a land of volcanos, so approaches are like 11-15 miles til the bottom of the mountain without a sled. Plus it’s mostly wilderness, so basically I’m just cutting out the road skinning and like 3/4 of the approach.

Exactly why you need EFI - you're saying you have an altitude variation of 6000 feet. Tune your carb for one altitude, and it will never be right for any other altitudes.

 

[csavall]

Exactly why you need EFI - you're saying you have an altitude variation of 6000 feet. Tune your carb for one altitude, and it will never be right for any other altitudes.

 

[BC_Dan]

While exact jetting is important at maintaining optimum performance, the jetting charts usually go in 2000 ft increments. If he had a carbed sled jetted for 4000-6000 feet, he will be fine for where he is going to ride. EFI is nice, but in his budget, there won't be many sleds available that have it. Most of the really tall stuff in Oregon is in the wilderness, the only way to get there is to hoof it.

 

[lookingforsled]

While exact jetting is important at maintaining optimum performance, the jetting charts usually go in 2000 ft increments. If he had a carbed sled jetted for 4000-6000 feet, he will be fine for where he is going to ride. EFI is nice, but in his budget, there won't be many sleds available that have it. Most of the really tall stuff in Oregon is in the wilderness, the only way to get there is to hoof it.

Exactly - I’m not going UP anything on a sled, just across with some slight variation, maybe MAX like 900ft variation. Basically just need to get by on cascade lakes highway + the road to the bottom of ball butte/brokentop if you know what I’m referencing.

 

[BC_Dan]

And maybe over to Elk Lake for a burger