[Skibbidy]

1995 arctic cat zr 440. Sat for a while started yearly…. it did start and run recently to warm up.

Replaced needles and seat with viton tips / the seat was shorter with holes in the seat. 3 holes vs no holes in seat. The viton tip was a tad bigger.
cleaned all carbs
Rebuilt fuel pump
Added a gas shut off inline
Put all back together/ won’t start.
it pulls / sounds like it wants to start then won’t. 2 cups of gas in muffler

prior To this/ gas was in cylinders and exhaust.

pulse lines is a soft rubber
I’m using a cottage cheese container with for gas. Also replaced pick up line. Tank is currently off. No gas going to carbs and After 30 pulls gas in cottage cheese cup was not going down l. Definitely not sucking. I was told psi was good in both cylinders



bad crank seals ??

 

[Skibbidy]

 

[BC_Dan]

how's the fuel pump? Check the impulse line. If there's fuel in there, gas is leaking past the diaphragm in the fuel pump.

Have you set the float height?

 

[Skibbidy]

Float height was set to 23. Spec is 22-24mm
Rebuilt fuel pump
Pulled and pulled …. Gas never went down. I have fuel in-line into a tall cottage cheese cup with cap on and a vent hose
I guess I don’t know how to check impulse line. From what I understand it can be done with a finger on end of hose. ?

 

[Skibbidy]

how's the fuel pump? Check the impulse line. If there's fuel in there, gas is leaking past the diaphragm in the fuel pump.

Have you set the float height?

I’m not sure how to check pulse line. Float heights set to spec. Pretty sure fuel isn’t making it to carb. No gas on line to carb

 

[Skibbidy]

how's the fuel pump? Check the impulse line. If there's fuel in there, gas is leaking past the diaphragm in the fuel pump.

Have you set the float height?

Float height was set to 23. Spec is 22-24mm
Rebuilt fuel pump
Pulled and pulled …. Gas never went down. I have fuel in-line into a tall cottage cheese cup with cap on and a vent hose
I guess I don’t know how to check impulse line. From what I understand it can be done with a finger on end of hose. ?

 

[BC_Dan]

When the piston goes up, it creates a small vacuum on that side of the crankcase. If you have your finger over the fuel pump side of the impulse line, you will feel a bit of suction. When the piston goes down, you will feel a bit of pressure. That vacuum/pressure cycle moves the diaphragm in the fuel pump back and forth, which causes the fuel to pump.

Take the line off a carb. Put it in a container and pull the rope. You should get a bit of fuel out of the line every pull. If not, work backwards until you figure out where it's being restricted. It could be a bad fuel pump, no impulse, a collapsed/rotted pick up line in the tank, a clogged filter in the tank, or even a shut-off that is in the off position. That last one will make you feel silly, trust me

To make sure fuel can get through the system, you could take the line off the carb and lightly pressurize the tank. If you have a compressor, wrap an air nozzle with a rag and push it into the fuel tank opening. Give it a little pressure. That should quickly tell you if you have any restrictions.

 

[kccats]

Regardless of your measurement on float height.
Go back to your stock needle and seat, that one is too tall and likely wont open
Do this, put a piece of fuel line on carb inlet, with bowl off just blow into hose and then raise the float till you can not pass air. At this point the float should be 'Level' with carb body!

 

[Skibbidy]

The shorter one went in
I bent tab down so seat would close
The taller one had a bad viton tip
I attribute that to leaking gas into crank case and not ever closing correctly.
I order a carb kit from Dennis Kirk.
thought I had correct one.
Only thing I replaced was needle and seat I still don’t have gas to carbs anyway
So crossing fingers the needle and seat will work. If I get gas to carbs… I’ll try the level off method with floats by blowing. Thinking of replacing weak rubber hose I feel like is collapsing for impulse line. If that don’t work I’m renting a pressure tester from orielly to check psi again

 

[Skibbidy]

Regardless of your measurement on float height.
Go back to your stock needle and seat, that one is too tall and likely wont open
Do this, put a piece of fuel line on carb inlet, with bowl off just blow into hose and then raise the float till you can not pass air. At this point the float should be 'Level' with carb body!

The shorter one went in
I bent tab down so seat would close
The taller one had a bad viton tip
I attribute that to leaking gas into crank case and not ever closing correctly.
I order a carb kit from Dennis Kirk.
thought I had correct one.
Only thing I replaced was needle and seat I still don’t have gas to carbs anyway
So crossing fingers the needle and seat will work. If I get gas to carbs… I’ll try the level off method with floats by blowing. Thinking of replacing weak rubber hose I feel like is collapsing for impulse line. If that don’t work I’m renting a pressure tester from orielly to check psi again

 

[Skibbidy]

Well I rented a psi tester from orielly/ didn’t seem to be accurate. One cylinder closets to belt got to 120. The. Other one got to about 90 then tried again. They both didn’t make it past 60. So not sure about that.
got it running … carb by recoil kept leaking while running
Other carb didn’t seem to leak closest to belt
I threw about 6 cups of gas and it ran idle to high. I adjusted air and idle screw. Couldn’t get it started again.
seems if I pressurize hose with my mouth she fires up. But that only worked twice
I almost put seat back on to ride but it won’t start again. It does have pulse. I felt they with finger. Fuel pump must be rebuilt correctly.
am I getting back to carb needle and seat wrong size. See pictures.

 

[Skibbidy]

Well had it going. Now won’t start and dog isn’t catching recoil. Maybe a bad spring there
Pulled this thing to many times.
seems like I can get it going … idles good / keeps sucking gas. Then after I turn it off it won’t fire back up unless I pressurize with my mouth. Was leaking a lot of gas out over flow also anyway what would make air in the line constant …. Carb, needle and seat/ impulse??
Impulse seems to do what’s it’s suppose to do when it’s running. I mean you still need impulse when it’s started correct??

 

[kccats]

OMG just set your floats!

 

[Skibbidy]

OMG just set your floats!

I bent the tab down so they stop the fuel. I think I set them correctly. I blew in hose with bowl off like you said.

 

[kccats]

As long as it does indeed shut off as it becomes level and when dropped it passes

 

[Skibbidy]

Well rebuilt fuel pump
Cleaned one carb really good with berrymans chem dip replaced all fuel lines and impulse line
Got it running kinda good
Thanks all
My next question is it won’t hill climb
Clutch engages at 4500 rpm…
Bogs to 5000 / seems like it shifts /then drops a tinny bit in rpm them up to 7000 has a bog
Wide open throttle rips and gets to almost 9000 rpm maybe 8500. I don’t like to see it go to 9000
Clutch is dirty and the rollers and weights look ruff/ spring is yellow and rusty on both clutches/I have a new belt
I did clean sheaves / sheaves are spotless no cracks
Some cracks on tower but maybe casting maks

I sprayed everything I could with air compressor
Any thoughts

 

[Skibbidy]

 

[Skibbidy]

 

[Skibbidy]

 

[Skibbidy]

I do not have a clutch puller
I know that my needle and seat on one carb has 3 washers and the other has one
I did not soak the other carb because it was not leaking gas as my other one was.
I assumed it’s working fine
My tang on my float arms are also bent significantly more than the carb I soaked.
if you don’t recall,, I put in a shorter needle and seat and got that to work.
I have also been out on the trail with it trying to adjust air and idle screw to best performanc.
spark plugs are brownish/ tan and slightly black in some spots….