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Discussion Starter #1
1992 Indy 500SP EFI
How can the coolant be drained, flushed out so it can get a fresh chemicals? What type of coolant. Std green? Qnantity?

Also the chain case, what fluid? Also is the gasket just RTV black?

Brake fluid Dot3?

Just trying to finish up the small details before winter.
 

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60/40 standard green i.e 60% coolant 40% water, icr the exact amount, just make sure that when you drain and then put all new in that you raise the front of your sled much higher then the rear cooler and run with the cap off so the air bubbles can get out of it. Also best to wait till it is colder out to do so. Chaincase is Synthetic and can be found from Klotz or AMSOIL, do NOT use gear oil or ATF. Make sure while you do that you adjust your chain and make sure the chain and the adjuster assembly is ok.

Brake Fluid is Dot 3 and I use Synthetic as well.
 

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I use a wet/dry shop vac to evacuate the antifreeze before change. Open the cap, stick the hose on the cap, turn on the vac, crack a hose elsewhere. You will get almost all the old coolant out pretty easily, and in a container to dispose of properly without making a big mess.

I use Polaris chaincase oil, Klotz or Amsoil are also good. I would not be afraid of using ATF in a pinch, but definitely NOT gear lube. Thicker fluids do not penetrate the links of the chain very well and may damage the chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
60/40 standard green i.e 60% coolant 40% water, icr the exact amount, just make sure that when you drain and then put all new in that you raise the front of your sled much higher then the rear cooler and run with the cap off so the air bubbles can get out of it. Also best to wait till it is colder out to do so. Chaincase is Synthetic and can be found from Klotz or AMSOIL, do NOT use gear oil or ATF. Make sure while you do that you adjust your chain and make sure the chain and the adjuster assembly is ok.

Brake Fluid is Dot 3 and I use Synthetic as well.
So just RTV to reseal chain case cover?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I use a wet/dry shop vac to evacuate the antifreeze before change. Open the cap, stick the hose on the cap, turn on the vac, crack a hose elsewhere. You will get almost all the old coolant out pretty easily, and in a container to dispose of properly without making a big mess.

I use Polaris chaincase oil, Klotz or Amsoil are also good. I would not be afraid of using ATF in a pinch, but definitely NOT gear lube. Thicker fluids do not penetrate the links of the chain very well and may damage the chain.
I will try the vac thing, but is there no drain for the cooling system? Where to crack a hose loose? Any of them?
 

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No RTV, it should have a black seal already on it. Those rarely go bad and if they do then you have to source one out from eBay or other places as iirc they are NLA.
 

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I usually crack the hose at the thermostat housing, then after I evacuate as much as I can, I remove the hose at the t-stat and suck as much as I can get from there, too. To get it all, you may have to remove a lower hose that goes to the water pump. The coolant can't flow unless there is a way for air to get in behind the coolant. You will have to look at your system and make sure you are getting the fluid out of the heat exchangers as well as the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No RTV, it should have a black seal already on it. Those rarely go bad and if they do then you have to source one out from eBay or other places as iirc they are NLA.
I went and did this today, I did go with a new gasket. Glad I did as the old one was glued on with clear rtv, ugh. Anyhow good call on the chain tension, it was super loose.

Is there a tightening toque on the chain case cover bolts?
 
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