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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I have my new track for my 2000 440 Panther. I've dropped the suspension, but I can't figure out how to get the stupid driveshaft out! I don't have access to a service manual...

Can anybody out there help me with a simplified procedure? What's holding that little bugger in? I'm hoping I don't have to pull the chain case, brake, driven clutch and shaft, etc..

Thanks!
 

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SORRY TO BE THE BEARER OF BAD NEWS BUT YOU HAVE TO OPEN THE CHAINCASE TO PULL THE SPROCKET OFF THE SHAFT TO REMPVE THE DRIVE AXLE. THERE IS ALSO BOLTS ON THE CLUTCH SIDE THAT NEED TO BE REMOVED (WHERE THE SPEEDO CABLE ATTACHES) HOPES THIS HELPS.


GOOD LUCK!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You folks sure know how to ruin my Sunday! Why couldn't you give me a better answer???

Okay, the good news is that I was able to perform the operation without too much trouble. Got the old track off - okay, the razor knife helped with that... but I also got the new track on as well. The chaincase is all back together, and I think everything is all set. I'm going to replace some idlers and the hyfax, and repair or replace the tunnel wear strip while I still have the suspension out.

Thanks for all your help!

Oh, before I go - what do you put in the chaincase? I've read (online) anything from automotive transmission fluid, to 90 weight gear oil...

What do the experts here have to say. I'd like to still have teeth on the gears a year from now! :)
 

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I use Klotz synthetic chaincase oil in all my rebuilds. It costs more, but never degrades. You should check with your manufacturer to see what they recommend. Good job on the rebuild!
 

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I AGREE WITH SMALLENGINEGUY ANY GOOD SYNTHECTIC WILL DO
BUT CHECK WITH YOUR DEALER OR OWNERS MANUAL FOR WHAT
WEIGHT OIL YOU WILL NEED.

GOOD LUCK!!


P.S. I USE AMSOIL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank... Ended up paying $$$ for genuine AC stuff. Sled's running great - track replacement went well.

Might have to move the suspension mounts down a hole. The 1" lugs slap the tunnel wear strips on bumpy trails. Stock lugs were .75". I've got the track as tight as it should go. Does moving the rear end down a hole sound like a good way to deal with this? Might even help to keep the skis on the ground too.
 
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