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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the infamous raider is burping already. had this problem when i used to ride it, and just assumed thats the way it was supposed to be. the lights are really dim, they get a little brighter the higher you rev it. when you put one of those little jump boxes on it for the electric start, the lights get real bright, bright enough to actually claim it has lights. sled has no battery, but the jump box making the lights bright even with the sled not running is leading me to believe a weak rectifier. any thoughts?

PS tach does not work, just flinches now and then if that is of any signifficance

my dad was one of his 3 friends to run raiders. one friend keeps his stored away, and i heard from the guy at the local sled shop the 3rd is selling his raider with a 440 CCW. when last seen, body was in great shape as was interior and electrical, just painted flat black and made it tacky. going to check it out tomarrow, if interested let me know and may be able to set you up with the buy.
 

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Does your Raider have a lighting coil, or a charging coil? It might NEED the battery to work correctly. If not, the rectifier is the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
how do you test the charging coils behind the flywheel or how do you test the rectifier? sled has had dim lights with both engines so thats my reason for assuming rectifier.
 

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With the engine running, there should be an A/C voltage of around 30-35V out of the coil under the flywheel, but if the lights are dim, it's probably good (coils are either good or bad). The rectifier changes the A/C to regulated D/C 12V. If you've got the A/C in, it's either the rectifier or a bad ground somewhere on the machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
once again a problem solved can be credited to you SEG. broke a motor mount yesterday which led to breaking the exhaust manifold in half and ripped a wire out of the rectifier. welded manifold back up, canabolized my other raider for a rectifier and lights are brighter than they've ever been since we saved it from a local snowmobile scrap yard in 1992. rectifier was the problem as you had bluntly stated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
you'd be more than welcome to jump in!!! i tried checking out high beam tonight and the hi beam lo beam shocked the crap outta my thumb and killed all lights again !!! bahumbug. got a short somewhere
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
a shorted wire ended up blow brake light on one side, one tail light, tach light and headlight. need a special connector for the tach light and need the goofiest looking headlight bulb i've ever seen. when sprint hits and the opel is done again i'm pulling the harness completely out of the sled and re-wiring it completely, 30 year old wires just arent up to snuff anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
snowmobiling is among my 3 favorite things to do. i got a headlight for it today, worked well, soon as i reved the engine over 3K, the headlight blew. so one rectifier i had the dim lights that'd barely glow, a new rectifier keeps all my lights bright but keeps blowing my headlights. still a rectfier problem? the raider i took the headlight off from had a sealed beam headlight like a car, would that make any difference?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yes, i was thinking of doing that and then finding a different bulb that would withstand the voltage, but i just know the other lights will start to blow at higher RPM too. i talked to a raider collector today in search of parts, he bought out bay city supply 5 years ago (major raider supply company) he has many parts, but no rectifiers and says the rectifiers from the CCW motors and Kohler motors do not interchange, as they run different electronic systems i guess, the raider does have a replaceable bulb and the 75 raider has a sealed beam, so i'm wondering if thats what makes the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
heres the problem. my sled has 60 watt bulbs in it for everything. looking through some of my raider literature, the 74 and 75 models had a 120 watt rectifier, i took the rectifier from a 75, there be the problem. i'll see if i can get 120 watt bulbs for the whole sled or see if theres a resistor that i can put inbetween the rectifier and headlight somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i've added a voltage regulator to the sled and its still blowing headlights. i used a car headlight to test, its a sealed beam 7" headlight from a 69 Opel GT. it worked fine, ran it up to 6,500 RPM and kept hte sled running for a few minutes, headlight was fine, bought the right bulb AGAIN, and it blew. the rest of the lights get bright as they should, but not excessively bright, any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yep, just the headlight. tail lights/brake lights and dash lights are all holding up fine. i have a new regulator/rectifier on order, will be here tuesday, and for a 46 dollar regulator and a 25 dollar batter i'm told i must have in it, the thing better keep headlights.
 

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What I don't understand is how the other lights are OK, when they ALL should go through the regulator....Wouldn't they all get 36V? Are you sure someone didn't wire the headlight bypassing the regulator?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
the output wire from the regulator goes directly from the ignition switch, then from the ignition switch it feeds the headlight and other lights so i know the thing cant be bypassed from the headlight. i have a new rectifier/voltage regulator order, be here tuesday to try. if this assumed "faulty" rectifier really is bad, would it be possable for this rectifier to have fried the CDI box on the slex i took this off from, or is that a far fetched idea? this sled is a wiring mess, i can't wait for spring so i can get rid of these headaches.
 
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