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Discussion Starter #1
So I just bought a 2004 Polaris 700 Edge Touring and put some fresh gas in for a first ride. I hear a clicking sound (it sounds like the track hitting something, actually) at higher speeds (above 15 or so). From the other posts I've read on here, I think it's one of the following:

1. Flat spot in the belt (I ordered a new one to find out)
2. Track tension too loose
3. running the sled on the wrong setting - prem vs. reg

The problem is, I didn't know until I put in 5 gal of regular gas that the previous owner used all premium in it. So he said he always ran it on the premium setting and that it was bad to have it on the wrong setting. But I now have a mix of both in the tank. Could that be the problem? What should I do? Or do you think it's something else? I looked under the sled with it hanging on a stand and the clicking sounded like it was coming from the track but I couldn't see how. Everything is greased, and tight, but the track is a little bit loose, I guess. I'm fairly new to this new of a sled, so what is the rule of thumb for track tension?

Sorry for so many questions, but I gotta start somewhere. Thanks in advance for the help!
 

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I doubt it would be the fuel, I run both my 800s on regular, and even if I switch it to premium, I do not detect any difference. You should be able to rule out the belt just by looking at the edges, a flat spot that would make a noise would be very apparent. You could have a chaincase that is out of adjustment, those will cause some ticking sounds from time to time. That's also easy to rule out; there's a jamb nut on the adjuster on the side of the chaincse, loose the jamb nut, rotate the secondary clutch forward to get all the slack out of the chain, and tighten finger tight. Then back off 1/4 turn. Tighten the jamb nut. That will rule out that one.

There are specs for track tightness, but I usually keep mine tight enough so they don't ratchet on the drive cogs and no tighter. Too tight is as bad as too lose.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the advice, I'll check the chaincase. I guess I don't quite know what you mean by "ratchet on the drive cogs." You mean so the track doesn't physically slip on the cogs, like from one notch to the next? My track right now is nowhere near that loose, so it's either not that, or you're describing something else. With it hanging up on a stand I can measure the distance from the track to the flat slide above it, maybe 1/2"? I can measure more exactly tonight. Anyway, thanks for the quick reply and I'll check the chaincase and let you know what I find.

If it helps, the sled did vibrate a little bit with this noise, like a bent prop on a boat.
 

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Racheting is exactly that. The drive cog slips over the drive lugs on the inside of the track. (The driveline moves, the track doesn't). On a short track, I would tighen the track equally so that it just touches the hyfax. The book measurement will tell you to hang a 10 lb weight 16" ahead of the center of the rear idler wheel and measure the distance from the track clip wear surface and the hyfax. It should be 3/8" to 1/2".
 

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your hifax slides could be worn and your track clips are making contact on an idler wheel bolt. This is what I found on my yamaha
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you all for the replies... just came in from the garage: chain tightened to spec, hyfax not excessively worn, track tension is okay, and still the sound! But I looked closer at my belt (I was riding at night and it was hard to see before) there's a spot where it's thinner, like it was slipped or stuck or whatever, but it's clearly not evenly worn. So the new belt is on its way, and that should take care of it. Then all I need is snow... I'll try to remember to post up here if that is the problem, or even if it's not.

Thanks!

Oh by the way, the reason I don't have the spare belt is my friend I went riding with blew his belt and I gave him my spare... which brings me to a little mod we did to my sled and I highly recommend: on the inside of the hood the little plastic access door to the headlights - we put in a little LED light that's wired to a switch next to the ignition, so I could take the panel out and with 8' of extra wire, bring it over to the other sled and use it as a flashlight. Worked flawlessly, and tucks right back into the hood. The sled should come from the factory with that in there... I'll post pics if people want.
 

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stepper459 said:
Oh by the way, the reason I don't have the spare belt is my friend I went riding with blew his belt and I gave him my spare... which brings me to a little mod we did to my sled and I highly recommend: on the inside of the hood the little plastic access door to the headlights - we put in a little LED light that's wired to a switch next to the ignition, so I could take the panel out and with 8' of extra wire, bring it over to the other sled and use it as a flashlight. Worked flawlessly, and tucks right back into the hood. The sled should come from the factory with that in there... I'll post pics if people want.
Do that, great idea.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
pics of LED lights

Here are the pics... I put the one in the side, too, which provided nice light to work on the belt on my friend's sled, and will come in handy at other times I'm sure. Each light has 3 led's in it. Using my phone's camera, I wasn't able to get a good pic of the light they give off, but they do work well. And there's room for another switch next to the one I installed, so maybe I'll add some more sometime. It's nice that they only draw like 0.3amps each....
 

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you should patent a universal design of that and put it on the market before someone else does! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Would love to patent it, but I probably won't.

As far as the original problem, it was in fact the belt - it had a spot that was worn down from slipping, maybe with the track frozen from the previous owner... I didn't see it at first, but a new belt solved the problem and now the spot is obvious. Just wanted to post the answer to my problem, for future reference for others....
 
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