Everyday stuff:
-silicon spray in the tunnel to help keep snow from sticking.
-you can adjust your secondary to keep using that worn out belt on your fishing sled
-to gain top speed run the track looser than the manual says
-On pre fuel injected sleds,,, most stock sleds seem to be jetted a bit rich (so rejetting is usually easy hp)
-if you never ride that 600-700cc sled at speeds over 85mph,,than why not regear and have more power where you need it.
-change your primary spring if your sled is more than 15 years old,, you will notice.
-remove the torsion bar for easier side hilling on a trail sled(you will have lean more on the trails)
-
for 1/4 mile for fun,,cheap racing mods:
I've used sharped bolts and washers instead of studs
chopped the tunnel 3",
removed the silencer and replaced it with a s pipe
sync the carbs, and regear/clutch to the day at hand.
smoothed the exhaust y pipe/ ported the edges of the cyd where the exhaust bolts up
-lighted everything, excess engine mount material, skis, removed excess casting on the engine, carbs,light housing,covers; thinned the cowling and sections of the tunnel and belly pan. (all to save 1 lb)
carefully measure and drilled holes in every thing like idler wheels, back side of bumpers, bottom of trailing/suspension arms,rails,(save a 1/4lb)
replaced steel parts with aluminum like the steel bars bolting the rear suspension on ,(belly pan on old sleds)(save 2+lbs)
hollow out the seat and replace a plug of foam with a 2l coke bottle glue it in and lighten the seat board. (save 3/4 lb)
run premix and use the oil injection tank for gas
replace your big travel hd suspension with a basic suspension 1/2 the weight (indy light?)
(saved 3+lbs)
-silicon spray in the tunnel to help keep snow from sticking.
-you can adjust your secondary to keep using that worn out belt on your fishing sled
-to gain top speed run the track looser than the manual says
-On pre fuel injected sleds,,, most stock sleds seem to be jetted a bit rich (so rejetting is usually easy hp)
-if you never ride that 600-700cc sled at speeds over 85mph,,than why not regear and have more power where you need it.
-change your primary spring if your sled is more than 15 years old,, you will notice.
-remove the torsion bar for easier side hilling on a trail sled(you will have lean more on the trails)
-
for 1/4 mile for fun,,cheap racing mods:
I've used sharped bolts and washers instead of studs
chopped the tunnel 3",
removed the silencer and replaced it with a s pipe
sync the carbs, and regear/clutch to the day at hand.
smoothed the exhaust y pipe/ ported the edges of the cyd where the exhaust bolts up
-lighted everything, excess engine mount material, skis, removed excess casting on the engine, carbs,light housing,covers; thinned the cowling and sections of the tunnel and belly pan. (all to save 1 lb)
carefully measure and drilled holes in every thing like idler wheels, back side of bumpers, bottom of trailing/suspension arms,rails,(save a 1/4lb)
replaced steel parts with aluminum like the steel bars bolting the rear suspension on ,(belly pan on old sleds)(save 2+lbs)
hollow out the seat and replace a plug of foam with a 2l coke bottle glue it in and lighten the seat board. (save 3/4 lb)
run premix and use the oil injection tank for gas
replace your big travel hd suspension with a basic suspension 1/2 the weight (indy light?)
(saved 3+lbs)
