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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry if this has been posted before, but I have been reading on here about my "track jumping" issue. After hours of reading I beleive it may be the chain in the chain case. Unfortuneately my sled is at my cabin 150 miles north of here, so I can't check it till this weekend. I was wondering if the chain is adjustable or how to check for wear. Also a link to a how to for replacing the chain and gear if necessary. I'm sorry for the long post, I'm just trying to get all my stuff together for this weekend to try to get it corrected (planning ahead because I have no heated place to work on it up there:thumbsdown:) Thanks in advance.
 

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I didn't catch your make and model but I can respond to the chain case question. Having very little mechanical skill, I can tell you that removing the chain case is about the easiest thing you can do on a sled. I recall you need a standard socket set but you also need a really large socket as well. I don't recall the size but I have had to borrow it twice. It was much bigger than any of my sets had. All you do is remove the 4 or 5 bolts plus the large one, maybe also remove part of the exhaust since for me it blocks removal. That means just removing the springs that hold the exhaust to the can. Then it is as easy as visually inspecting the inside and all the components. In my Ski Doo, the only sled I have done this to, there is a chain tensioner that you can adjust. Make sure you bring a bunch of shop towels to catch the fluid when you pull the cover of and a fresh bottle of synthetic chain case lube to refill it. Working with chain case lube is nasty business. The smell gets in your sinuses and doesn't go away. Take a look at the blown up diagram of you sled on any parts website to see exactly what you need to take apart. If it is your chain, my bet is you have other parts that are affected as well. Do you see any metal shavings on the chain lube dip stick? A few small fragments are normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry for the lack of info, it is a 96 Yamaha V-max 600. As far as the chain goes, is it pretty self explanitory on checking it for wear, will it be obvious if I take off the cover and look at it?
 

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Sorry for the lack of info, it is a 96 Yamaha V-max 600. As far as the chain goes, is it pretty self explanitory on checking it for wear, will it be obvious if I take off the cover and look at it?
My limited experience says yes. It you don't have reverse, there are fewer parts to remove from the chain case to actually hold the chain in your hand to look at it. Each of the parts are pretty expensive to buy new but you can generally get the whole set up used for a much better price. When you checked the chain case lube with the dipstick, did it look like peanut butter?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not really sure, it was dark when I checked it, was mainly looking for metal shavings, Ill have to check for the peanut butter look, I assume that is bad news.
 

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Not really sure, it was dark when I checked it, was mainly looking for metal shavings, Ill have to check for the peanut butter look, I assume that is bad news.
No not necessarily bad news, but a sign it has been neglected (using the term loosley). It should be clearish brown and flow like thick oil. My ZR which I last changed 3 seasons ago is now looking peanutbutterish so I should have changed it over the summer. My skidoo which I have changed 3 times in three seasons still looks new.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Whats the easiest way to change the oil, is there a drain plug, or do I need to pull a plate to drain it, sorry for the dumb questions, I don't have access to the sled till this weekend, I should have brought it home! DOH!
 

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Whats the easiest way to change the oil, is there a drain plug, or do I need to pull a plate to drain it, sorry for the dumb questions, I don't have access to the sled till this weekend, I should have brought it home! DOH!
There is a drain plug inside the tunnel on the right hand side. One tip, if you have the non-hydraulic brake on that vmax, do not touch the brake lever once you have the caliper off the disk. (which you have to do to remove the chain case cover) If you do touch it, it will screw up the auto adjust mechanism and you have to pull the cover off that to reset it also. not a big deal, just one more thing to have to deal with.
 

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There is a drain plug inside the tunnel on the right hand side. One tip, if you have the non-hydraulic brake on that vmax, do not touch the brake lever once you have the caliper off the disk. (which you have to do to remove the chain case cover) If you do touch it, it will screw up the auto adjust mechanism and you have to pull the cover off that to reset it also. not a big deal, just one more thing to have to deal with.
D'oh. I did hit the brake lever after pulling it off. How do I got about resetting it?
 

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There is a drain plug inside the tunnel on the right hand side. One tip, if you have the non-hydraulic brake on that vmax, do not touch the brake lever once you have the caliper off the disk. (which you have to do to remove the chain case cover) If you do touch it, it will screw up the auto adjust mechanism and you have to pull the cover off that to reset it also. not a big deal, just one more thing to have to deal with.
the drain bolt is located on the face of the chaincase cover, bottom forward 10mm head bolt and may have "drain" cast on the cover just above. its one of two bolts on the cover that will have a copper type gasket washer behind it. you will have to remove the pipe to access the cover. pay attention to the orientation of the springs holding the pipe.

the gasket for the cover will not be reusable. if you dont have a new one, use "motoseal1" by permatex. just take provisions for scraping the old gasket off.
 
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