[Renagade]

i have a 95 formulla 3 600 tripple and am wondering if
ur air- fuel mixture is not right will it overheat?
it will start getting hot in 20min sometimes,
or ride it around for an hour, then gets hot.
was thinking waterpump at first but why would it
take so long to get hot??
all this testing was done in same snowstorm. so same
amount of snow hitting exchangers.

whats the factory mixture settings??:dunno:

 

[Renagade]

also, is there different jets in the carbs.
last owner said he might of switched them up??
thanks for your time

 

[BC_Dan]

If you go to SLP's website, they have instructions for jetting for your sled in a downloadable .pdf. If the sled is jetted to their spec, it shouldn't overheat and be related to the carbs. If the website doesn't have your sled, give them a call. Their shop is pretty awesome when it comes to giving out good advice on their stuff.

www.startinglineproducts.com/

 

[boogy]

it sound like its air locked if you had a leak in it thats how air gets in to tell take your antifrezze cover off when running and see if it flows over if it dose let the air out till it stops over flowing then top it of with antifrezze

 

[Renagade]

thanks BC.
if the carbs are not in the right order, meaning there switched up,
could it overheat?? new to triples.

boogy, theres a bleeder screw on top of t-stat.
added coolant till no bubbles came out.
thanks for ur input.

 

[BC_Dan]

If the jetting is "staggered", which means different jets for different piston locations, you could have a lean condition that can cause overheating. Some manufacturers fine tune their engines by using a jet that is leaner or richer to give the engine maximum performance. You should be able to look at the jets to see if they are all the same size (number). If they are all the same, carb position doesn't mean anything.

 

[Renagade]

thank you BC.
ill be taking the carbs off this weekend.
my son just rides it till it goes past halfway on guage.
hed be upset if i dont wait till no snow. haha

 

[BC_Dan]

Overheating could also be caused by riding at slow speeds so that not enough snow is coming off the track and hitting the heat exchangers. If the snow is hard or packed, that makes the problem worse. You may be able to add ice scratchers to the rails to get some snow/ice chips in the tunnel to help in cooling. Also, make sure the rear snow flap isn't blocking the ice/snow from hitting the rear heat exchanger. That can overheat the sled as well.

Hope you figure it out, you would hate to disappoint the kidlet by having a broke sled!!

 

[Renagade]

yea this is the first year that i let him ride
by himself. hes sooo proud!!
but broke the news to him that he will
be learning how to take his carbs off
sat morning. he wanted to know if it
would be together that day. haha
would be nice to be able to switch carbs around
and cure problem. so checking jet sizes sat.
thanks BC!!

 

[Renagade]

If the jetting is "staggered", which means different jets for different piston locations, you could have a lean condition that can cause overheating. Some manufacturers fine tune their engines by using a jet that is leaner or richer to give the engine maximum performance. You should be able to look at the jets to see if they are all the same size (number). If they are all the same, carb position doesn't mean anything.

well couldnt wait till sat.
took carbs off this morning. the jets are different
from clutch [pto] side first, 337-320-337.
also two carbs have III marked on them in black marker.
so now im thinking carbs installed incorrectly last cleaning?
so long story short-does anyone know how they should
be staggered?
thanks!!!

 

[Renagade]

well just got of a long phone call with dealer.
carbs are in the correct placement. and do have different
jets, so now they said to check waterpump.
thats under motor!!

 

[Renagade]

well pulled motor this afternoon. then pulled the mag side
apart to check drive teeth on waterpump,all ok.
then pulled waterpump housing to find that the pump
is in perfect condition. so i still have no idea why getting
hot at times. no air was in system, and t-stat was working.
so whats the next step?

 

[Dbl R]

check plug color/ check for air leaks

 

[Renagade]

check plug color/ check for air leaks

checked that before i pulled the motor.
finishing putting back together,
then bleeding coolant syst.
we will go from there.
thanks!

 

[Dbl R]

you could check the t stat by puting it in a pan and boil water and see if it opens when it gets to the correct temp.

 

[Renagade]

also found out that mixture screws were at 1-1/2,
instead of the 2 turns recomended.
would this make sled get hot at times??

 

[Dbl R]

at 1 1/2 turns it wld be giving it less air if the screw is on the air box side of the slide. so i say no. unless of course it has smaller than stock jetting in the pilot circuit... ride this sled at no more than 1/4 throttle and recheck plug color if its medium to dark brown or darker im gonna leap and say u r not chasing a jetting issue

 

[dunesman59]

i dont know if it true for your sled too but with my 95 mach z the coolant hoses that go to the heat exchanger and the over flow bottle are right above each other on the back of the cyl. head and can be easily reversed, and when you do that is will stay cool for a while then overheat rapidly. but looking at a parts diagram yours is set up the same way. the top outlet should go to the heat exchanger

 

[Renagade]

my upper hose from the t-stat housing goes to the bottle.
bottom hose is going to the left side heat exchanger.
im talking about the hoses on the back of head.
are these switched around in wrong position?
the motor was removed before i got sled.
if this is the prob id be really happy.
but wana make sure.
thanks so much.

 

[dunesman59]

another tip for you while you have it all apart the water pump has an allen bolt in the middle its like a 6 mil i believe (large single one on the front) take it out and squirt some injection oil in it to lube the bearings in the pump it doesnt have coolant in there and also on a triple make sure to watch for coolant being burned by the recoil cyl because the seals go bad in the pump then to coolant will was the cyl and destroy it. this is what just happended with my 780 but i coulght it before it ruined anything