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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering what items could be causing problem. I just replaced primary coil and lighting coil. Put everything back together but won't start. No spark! A few things I do know. The secondary ignition coil is good, i checked with ohm meter. One of the caps was bad. going to change. Just wondering what direction I should go now. Heres my thinking.
A. Check ohm reading on CDI and Coil
B. Check kill switch? do they go bad?
C. Check ignition switch? do they go bad?


What do you guys think?


P.S. I did not put a turbo charger on this Phazer! Sorry just wanted to throw that out there.
 

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I have a Polaris and the kill switch went bad. It caused it not to get spark. When I unplugged the kill switch it got spark. It's something simple to try at least.
 

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kill switches go bad, key switches go bad, carb switches go bad. wire can get chaffed or rubbed or unplugged. coils can be ohm tested, no testing for the cdi.

so you had the flywheel off to change the lighting coil, did you upset the pulse coil setting? isnt the timing set by that little gizwad with some wires hanging out of it that attaches inside there somewhere held in place by a couple of phillips screws? or were they slotted screws.

what phazer are you dealing with?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
86 Phazer. I had flywheel off, and coils are mounted to stator plate, which I did not remove. So timing was not interrupted.The wire threads thru a hole and then out the back part of the housing just to the right of the carbs, were they connect to the CDI. Oh, and it is an electric start. I'm guessing if the ignition switch was bad it wouldn't crank over. Is that correct?
 

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well you just blew that theory.

start testing from the stator and work your way out to the switches.

yes, a bad key switch will turn the starter motor and not provide spark, to entirely different wiring circuits.

what led to the changing of the ignition components?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sled would run, but like crap. If I shut it down it would not start again until it cooled down or next day. Thought was plugs, changed them, didn't improve. Also had secondary coil on hand so switched that, still did not improve. Changed primary coil last week, and it was the original. Ok, I'll start from primary and work my way back.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, I have specs 1.16 to 1.42 ohm primary coil and .17 to .21 ohm for lighting coil. Isn't there a way I can check switches with ohm meter as well?
 

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yes. its just a simple continuity test between given wires for each switch. dont have the info available in front of me now. i can post it tommorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My thinking is if you touch the black and red leads on the ohm meter you get a reading of 4.6 ohm. So if I connect the leads to the wires coming off the kill switch I should get that same reading if the switch is on/open. If not the switch is likely bad? I think I'm going to check coil and kill switch first. The ignition switch is a pain in the butt to get to if I'm going to do any sorta testing.
 

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your kill switch have the triangular plug with a black, black/white and a black/yellow? i have a set of bars right here.

black to black/white, switch off=continuity
black to black/yellow, switch on=continuity.
now wiggle the throttle pin side to side with the black and black yellow connected to your tester. you should lose continuity when pulled towards the end of the grip. continuity should be present when pushed toward the kill switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Maybe, just maybe I found the issue. This morning prior to leaving for work, I took a quick look at the wire harness and switch at the handle bar. The throttle cable is tight and there is no free play, hence , pulling the pin towards the grip. This would case the sled to not start. Am I correct? Preventing the sled from starting and taking off and hitting something or someone. Humm....don't know how that happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update, got home from work and adjusted the throttle free play. It started on second pull. Idles ok. Bogs when you hit throttle. Shut it down, pulled carbs, they are soaking right now. Clean them in morning and install and let you know out come.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Now totally baffled! I put cleaned carbs on, it starts right up, it idles good, not great. When I squeeze throttle it puks. Shut down pulled plugs. Clutch side is oily, fan side is dry and brown. Now what?
 

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my guess is something didnt go back together the way it came apart. sounds like one cylinder is getting fuel and the other not.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I think the tabs that push up on the needles are out of adjustment. I think the bowls are partialy filling with fuel. As long as the sled idles it can keep up with demand, but if the throttle is pushed then the carb can't keep up. If I adjust the tab the other direction the more fuel will inter the bowl which will keep up with demand. this is likely the same problem these other folks are having with their carbs. Am I on the right track? Cleaning the carbs is one thing, but also checking floats and positioning is another
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think the tabs that push up on the needles are out of adjustment. I think the bowls are partialy filling with fuel. As long as the sled idles it can keep up with demand, but if the throttle is pushed then the carb can't keep up. If I adjust the tab the other direction the more fuel will inter the bowl which will keep up with demand. this is likely the same problem these other folks are having with their carbs. Am I on the right track? Cleaning the carbs is one thing, but also checking floats and positioning is another
 

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that is a possibility. however, i am reluctant to advise adjusting the floats unless you know what your in for. skilled hands and a good eye, as well as a fairly accurate measuring devise.

unless you messed with the tang, or someone prior to you not knowing what they were doing altered them, 99% of the time the float will come out and go back without requiring any adjustments. this assuming they were properly adjusted to start with. the tang on the float is quite fragile and it doesnt take much to break it. it doesnt take much adjustment either to really upset the fuel flow.

you can check the float level easy enough. with the carbs out of the sled and sitting on a level surface, fill them with fuel using the fitting that the fuel supply line would normally attach to. when they wont take anymore fuel, carefully remove the bowls, note the fuel level, and compare with the other carb. easier if you do one carb at a time.

next method is to observe the needle in the seat. carbs empty of fuel, bowls off. with the carb upside down, slowly rotate the carb until the float starts to move. keep a close eye on the needle. at the exact moment the tang on the float is no longer in contact with the needle, measure the distance betwwen the bottom of the float and the mating surface where the bowl would attach. compare to spec for your sled.

play with that concept for awhile and its easy to see how, in the wrong hands, the floats could easily be misadjusted. you can also see exactly how the needle, seat and float work in conjunction with each other. start bending tangs back and forth a few times and you may be looking for a new set of floats. it doesnt take much of an alteration to radically increase/decrease fuel in the bowl.

have a look, see what you think.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Wel...well, I think that did it! Took carbs off last night about 10.30, and sure enough the floats were up about and 1/8 of and inch maybe, surely not flat. I'm talking when they are up side down of course. Adjusted the tab, so floats set level or 90 degrees. Didn't get back together until midnight and didn't want to wake the family so only fired it up for about a minute and didn't hit throttle. About 98% sure I fixed it. It had more snappy sound to it, and the exhaust look and smell was more like it should be. If that makes since?
 
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