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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all

New to the forums and new to the whole 'sled' ownership as well. I acquired a 1980 Everest 464 L/C Electro back in the summer from my neighbour for a whopping $60 and today, because we had enough snow on the ground, my sister-in-law and I towed it home with my truck. Now that its home, I wanna try and get it running. It's been sitting for quite some time (at least for the 3 years I've been living next door anyways). I don't have any keys for it, so I guess I need to track down a new key switch. In the meantime, is there any way I can jump the leads and pull start it? It has great compression and I was thinking about running a 20:1 mix in it just to get it running and lube up all the stuff inside the engine. On that note, I'm up in Calgary, AB, Canada and I need to know where to go to get all the different oils, battery, etc, and what not required to get it running and any help you experts could offer me to get this going would really help me out. If anyone has a key switch for this thing that they would be willing to part with, I would be very interested.

Thanks in advance and I look forward to keeping you all posted with more info on how this goes. I'll probably take some pictures tomorrow and post them up too.
 

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Mix @ 40:1.
Before trying to start it at all, drain the gas tank and start with fresh.
CLEAN the carb thoroughly, paying particular attention to the pilot jet [up the tube in the bowl].
There is a carb cleaning how to in the tech section under the sticky "How To's".
 

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I am Spartacus
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Fortunately on that sled you just need to unplug the keyswitch to make it run- nothing to jump! You're going to want to completely drain the fuel system and rebuild the carb if it's been sitting that long.
 

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Just pull the plug off the back of key switch
 

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also, check button on throttle side of handlebar. It must be "open" to run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well here's an update....

Luckily the tank was bone dry so no old gas to worry about. Had to cut the kill switch out as it was rusted to hell and wasn't opening so I wasn't getting spark. Pulled the plug off the key switch and tested spark and had spark! I took the breather off and shot a spray of carb cleaner down the throat and she roared to life!!! Went out today, bought some new fuel line to go from the tank to the oil injector block, poured some 20:1 gas in the tank and then put about 10L of regular in to thin out the mix. Took the carb off and gave it a cleaning which only took about 10 mins and that How-To was really helpful...(thanks RJ Gleason for pointing that out) filled the bowl up with fuel before I put the carb back together so I wouldn't have to pull forever to get it filled. Got the primer to work too!! Couple primes and she roared to life and stayed running...took it for a quick little rip around the open lot beside my house and man was I ever impressed at the power that thing had!! So now that it's running, I need some further info:

What kind of oil do I put in the chaincase? I figured I'm gonna change the fluids in this thing so I need to know what fluids to run.

Seeing as how it's oil injected, am I correct in assuming that I can put straight gas in the tank and just fill up the oil reservoir with standard 2 stroke oil?

I am in need of a rear brake light assembly as mine is cracked and busted. Any help locating one would be greatly appreciated.

Is there anywhere I can get a headlight for it. When I started it, the light didn't come on and I think I may have an issue with the back brake light as well. Unless this is related to bypassing the key switch.

The track is in decent shape but I think it's a little bit stretched out as I can't get the tensioners tightened up to get the 1/2" of play. It's more like 1-2".

Where can I get carbides for it? The runners aren't bad but they definitely could use an upgrade.

That's about it for now. I figured I'd post up some pics like I promised. Thanks again for all your help. Really making me feel welcome





 

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Use SAE 30 [non-detergent oil], ATF, or Doo synthetic chain case oil.
I would use whatever I had on hand or was cheapest.

Fill the oil tank with a good 2 stroke oil with a TW-C3 rating or better.

With the key switch unplugged, you will not have any lights.

You can wire in any replacement light assembley that will fit on there.
I have used trailer tail lights with good results.

If the track is not ratcheting under power, it is not too loose.

I would go with hardened bars instead of carbides as they are cheaper and can be had from any dealer or online retailer.
 

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awesome! this thing looks just like mine...will disco my switch and i hope to get the same results :)
 

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a little help?

You need to use a leaf blower under the hood. I could not tell what I was looking at. it is dual carbs right?
Track tension on that model is 5/8" to 7/8" form center of suspension to inner surface of track.
Later, Vic
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Vik - Yeah I pulled out the air compressor and blew out the leaves. Again...it was sitting for at least 3 years and the last few months underneath a tree lol. It's a single carb as well. I seem to be having some problems keeping it running again. I can use the primer and it will fire but now it doesn't want to stay running. Any suggestions? I did replace the plugs but it was starting to act up before that. Possibly because of the oil rich fuel I have in it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. My next project is to figure out the wiring for the key switch and wire up a couple of switches to get my lights to work and the electric start to work. Hoping to get some more snow here soon too :D Thanks for all the help this far
 

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If you have to keep priming it to keep it running, the carb needs cleaning.
Pay particular attention to the pilot jet which is up the tube as it is very small and plugs easily. Floss it with a bit of fine wire and that should help a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i did tear it apart and clean it using that wonderful 'how-to' on here and it ran like a top after that....managed to rip around with it for about 10 mins before I parked it and then it started acting up again. Maybe I'll buy some more carb cleaner and tear it apart again...really weird....but I'm learning....not bad so far for my first attempt though. Like I said earlier, I'm a total newb to all this, I just learned about carbs this summer after I rebuilt a 77 Mustang II in 6 months for my wedding this past august ;)
 

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If you did not replace the in-line filter, it might have sucked up some more gunk from the bottom of the tank.
Also, since the pilot jet is very small, all it takes is a flake of varnish to plug it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That's probably the problem. There is no in-line fuel filter on this thing. I bought some new fuel line because I'm not too sure about the clear vinyl stuff I bought to replace what was in there. Luckily for me, I have a parts store down the street from me so I'll go and pick up a universal fuel filter and put that in. Got another problem I have to worry about right now. I broke the nipple on the upper outlet for the fuel 'gauge' on the side of the tank trying to tighten up a hose clamp I had put on when i replaced the hose for the 'gauge' so now I have to try to find a replacement or try to MacGyver something. Again....thanks for all the help thus far :D
 

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Hey Fluffy,
I emailed the pics to you, hopefully the taillight is the same! I already pulled the fuel port elbow and will mail it once you figure out if the taillight will work for you!

After this mornings findings, I offer a HUGE piece of advice: Install a fuel shut off valve close to the tank! I was working on my sled yesterday and forgot to tighten one of the hose clamps on my filter... you guessed it, this morning I opened the shop to find 2.5 gallons of premix strewn across the floor. Wow, does that eat floor epoxy :( I installed a Briggs & Stratton PN:698183.

To anyone else browsing, I do have an almost complete '80 Everest 500 parts sled. The engine is on the shelf, but is complete from clutch to stator & flywheel. The chain-case, drive shaft, track drive assembly, steering, skis, cowl, windscreen, etc... are still there. The only real problem, the seat became a home to a family of chipmunks, man can they tear up a seat!

-Nick
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Nick - Thanks again.....let me know shipping prices if you get a chance today.....now I have another question....I found the speedo cable in the toolbox and was wondering how I go about hooking that up? Pics would be super helpful. Gonna try and tear apart the carb again today and hit it with carb cleaner and compressed air....I'm thinking I just did something wrong....gotta pull the new Iridium Plugs I put in and re gap them because they are at around .037 and they need to be in the .020 range so i gotta try and figure out how to bend them down and not break the tip on the plug and be out 20 bucks....really wanna get it setup quick while we have some nice weather so it'll be ready for when the snow flies :D....also if I can't track down a keyswitch, I think I have the wiring diagrams figured out enough to rig up a toggle and momentary switch for power and electric start...so we'll see how that plays out and then I have to rig a kill switch up as I busted the one I was gonna install...:S
 

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The speedo connection is an elbow gear connector under & about 4" behind the jackshaft on the clutch pulley side of the sled. I cant seem to get pics to load from my phone, but if you poke around with a flashlight you should be able to see it! Ill try loading a pic soon!

-Nick
 

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Your sled looks like it's in great shape! I would not waste money on iridium plugs on two stroke motors. Go with the correct standard NGK copper plug and it will run exactly the as with the $10 jobs. Many think they'll get a "hotter spark" by running these premium plugs. These plugs are designed to last longer by using harder metals with higher melting points which take longer to erode. With the oil/fuel mix being burned the advantage of these plugs is negated because they will foul just as fast. Good Luck, hope you get a lot of riding in this year!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
98yota....thanks man....i was really impressed when i got to run it especially after for how long its been sitting :D....gotta pull the carb tomorrow and give it another cleaning but I think after that I should be good to go....bought a couple toggle switches and a momentary switch to get my electric start and lights working....so I'm gonna play around with that tomorrow because we're supposed to get some snow in the next few days....but I really wanna get it going so I can take it back to Manitoba with me in february so I can take it out and have a lot of fun with it out on lake in my home town and out in the fields around the in-laws......now I just have to track down a couple of helmets for the wife and myself....but I can't wait to have some fun...and thanks to the great bunch of folks on here....most of my problems have been solved!!
 
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